Old look ARs from new Rustangs will fit??
Old look ARs from new Rustangs will fit??
First no flaming please...Yes I know how could you consider...
Well my freind wants to give me a set of 17s off a new style Mustang 2001-2002 that look like the ARs old style. They will be free to me so I thought I would ask if they would fit since they are five lug. I like them better than my chrome salad shooters.
Let me know.
Well my freind wants to give me a set of 17s off a new style Mustang 2001-2002 that look like the ARs old style. They will be free to me so I thought I would ask if they would fit since they are five lug. I like them better than my chrome salad shooters.
Let me know.
Well if you are gonna get flamed I am gonna get flamed with you...I WISH THEY WOULD FIT!
I have thought of everything I would need to do to make them fit, and aside from backspacing and offset (which basically just leaves bolt pattern...) I have it figured out. My uncle-in-law is a metal worker, so he could take my hubs, and grind off the existing (factory) F-Body/Chevrolet lugs/lug pattern, and weld in new studs, just like they do if you break one off, to match the Mustang bolt pattern. Ask anyone who knows me now much I hate Mustangs, and they will tell you it is with a very deep passion, even see my sig, but I absolutely love those wheels, and think they would look great on an F-Body, especially a black one.
Anyone know what all would need to be done to make them fit? Would adapters/spacers be more logical or would it work? I may start a post about this. (Putting Ford wheels onto Chevrolet...)
I have thought of everything I would need to do to make them fit, and aside from backspacing and offset (which basically just leaves bolt pattern...) I have it figured out. My uncle-in-law is a metal worker, so he could take my hubs, and grind off the existing (factory) F-Body/Chevrolet lugs/lug pattern, and weld in new studs, just like they do if you break one off, to match the Mustang bolt pattern. Ask anyone who knows me now much I hate Mustangs, and they will tell you it is with a very deep passion, even see my sig, but I absolutely love those wheels, and think they would look great on an F-Body, especially a black one.
Anyone know what all would need to be done to make them fit? Would adapters/spacers be more logical or would it work? I may start a post about this. (Putting Ford wheels onto Chevrolet...)
Discount Tire sells replicas with the F-body/Corvette bolt pattern 5*4.75 (120.65 mm). Performance Wheel Outlet sells the new Cragar in chrome that looks really similar in the F-body bolt pattern as well.
As far as offset, with a 9 inch width, you ought to be ok with a fairly commom high positive offset, like +40 to +50. SS wheels are 9" with a +50. Anything less than will push the wheels out farther, but your talking millimeters, of which there are 25.4 in an inch. At +40, on a 9" rim, it should only push out the wheel about 1/2 inch.
No flame from me, it's just another take on the ARE TT2 & 200S styles, which looks really good. Personally, I like the dark grey center.
As far as offset, with a 9 inch width, you ought to be ok with a fairly commom high positive offset, like +40 to +50. SS wheels are 9" with a +50. Anything less than will push the wheels out farther, but your talking millimeters, of which there are 25.4 in an inch. At +40, on a 9" rim, it should only push out the wheel about 1/2 inch.
No flame from me, it's just another take on the ARE TT2 & 200S styles, which looks really good. Personally, I like the dark grey center.
Yesterday and today I've seen a few stangs with those rims, funny how you notice.
I somewhat understood what you said about the offsets. Though I think some positive offset would be nice to be flush with the body.
As for the bolt patern, in my youth I worked at a high perf VW parts and shop. I remember them having a kit for the VW Bug wtih the Ford/Chevy paterns. It was a bolt on adapter, just punch out the studs and bolt in adapter. Easy. My thing is I want to make sure it all is true. In other words no shake on HWY.
The solution is buy both adapters weld or bolt the VW spacers together (in the middle) this way on one side you have chevy and the other is ford. The adaper set of 8 would be 250 or so. Thoughts...
I somewhat understood what you said about the offsets. Though I think some positive offset would be nice to be flush with the body.
As for the bolt patern, in my youth I worked at a high perf VW parts and shop. I remember them having a kit for the VW Bug wtih the Ford/Chevy paterns. It was a bolt on adapter, just punch out the studs and bolt in adapter. Easy. My thing is I want to make sure it all is true. In other words no shake on HWY.
The solution is buy both adapters weld or bolt the VW spacers together (in the middle) this way on one side you have chevy and the other is ford. The adaper set of 8 would be 250 or so. Thoughts...
Talked to a guy (through e-mail) with AdaptItUSA.com, and he quoted me with $189.00 for a set of 4 adapters for Chevy to Ford bolt pattern. I don't know though what thickness this is or anything, and if this a direct application quote, or just a ballpark quote. Either way, if you aren't interested, keep me up to date on those wheels...if you can get them for free, or whatever, I would probably be willing to supply you with some money in exchange for the wheels...
Well thanks for the info on the adapters. I will get in touch with them. As far as the rims go I don't remember if he said they have rubber on them. My buddy is out of town till Sun so I won't be able to ask if they have rubber. If they don't we can work out something. BTW my car is black and those rims would look bad ***
though I did think about striping the grey paint and polish them up.
Touch base with me mid to late next week.
though I did think about striping the grey paint and polish them up. Touch base with me mid to late next week.
With everyone with exception of the guy getting the wheels free .....would it not just be cheaper to buy used TT2's and have the center spoked painted gunmetel ?? With the exception of some slight differences in the lip , the 2 are basically the same wheel . The PWO polished 01-02 knockoff mustang wheels are in fact even supplied by AR .
Re: 90 Z28SS
Well, there are differences in the shape of them. th elip is one, and the second is the amount that the spokes stick out. The TTII's bow out a little more. And no way would it be cheaper to get the TTII's and powdercoat them. YOu can get a take off set of the Mustang wheels for about $500 or less. Anywhere you know of to get TTII's cheaper? Plus powdercoating cost...
Plus, I just flat like the way these wheels look. And the TTII's are way overused, (altough they look excellent), so I don't really want to be part of the crowd. Many folks freak out for even considering putting Mustang wheels on an F-Body, but who cares, to each his own, right?
Zrag - Thanks, I will shoot you an e-mail or PM or something next week. If you couldn't have guessed, my car is black as well...
Plus, I just flat like the way these wheels look. And the TTII's are way overused, (altough they look excellent), so I don't really want to be part of the crowd. Many folks freak out for even considering putting Mustang wheels on an F-Body, but who cares, to each his own, right?
Zrag - Thanks, I will shoot you an e-mail or PM or something next week. If you couldn't have guessed, my car is black as well...
Originally posted by ArcticYT95TA
To the best of my knowledge, these rims will not fit your F-body. They are a 5 bolt pattern, but not the same offset. Certain Ford rims fit other cars, such as Mitsubishi's, etc. but not F-bodies.
To the best of my knowledge, these rims will not fit your F-body. They are a 5 bolt pattern, but not the same offset. Certain Ford rims fit other cars, such as Mitsubishi's, etc. but not F-bodies.
I Dont think its the same bolt pattern though....is it??
Good news!!! I just got them on with no stinking adapters! Yes the positive offset is much than stock but the rim is about 1/2 inch from the body. It is the flush look. I plan to powder coat them black and the center cap black with a red chevy logo. What is best is they are 17x9 right in the SS rim range.
AWESOME! How did you get them on with no adapters? Is the bolt pattern not too different? Also -
The positive offset is much what than stock? And it looks flush?
And you say they are 17x9...I thought they were 17x8's? Now that you got it done before me, I feel bad for doing the same, but I have had this idea for quite a while, so I don't feel to bad.
Yes the positive offset is much than stock but the rim is about 1/2 inch from the body. It is the flush look.
And you say they are 17x9...I thought they were 17x8's? Now that you got it done before me, I feel bad for doing the same, but I have had this idea for quite a while, so I don't feel to bad.
Zrag - More info please...I want to know, these wheels are byfar some of my favorites (even though they resemble TTII's). I am gonna do it either way just like I have been planning, just wanting to know a little more...Thanks.
To be honest, I needed to offset the rim for it to fit. The rim did fit on the tips of the studs but wouldn't pass the threads. With the dremel I hit the acorn about 1/8 inch since chevy patern is wider. So for 1/8 and 1/2hr of work per rim I'll save 189 for the adapter.
Besides it would've never fit with the 1 inch adapter. It would look like the ricer cars back it in the day when rims and tires stuck out 6-7 inches. No ghetto look here!
The rim will spin true since the center hub fits perfectly in the rim.
Yes they are 17x9.
For me this was worth it, a good fit and 9inch wide like in the SS rim. The front rim is about 1/4 in from the fender wheel but the rear is about 1/2 from the edge of the quarter pan.
Besides it would've never fit with the 1 inch adapter. It would look like the ricer cars back it in the day when rims and tires stuck out 6-7 inches. No ghetto look here!
The rim will spin true since the center hub fits perfectly in the rim.
Yes they are 17x9.
For me this was worth it, a good fit and 9inch wide like in the SS rim. The front rim is about 1/4 in from the fender wheel but the rear is about 1/2 from the edge of the quarter pan.


