While ordering my Moser 12-bolt I came upon the fact that their 1/2" wheel stud upgrades may be useful from a power-load capability, but I didn't want to go with open-ended lugnuts.

Turns out that the largest closed-end lugnuts you CAN go with are the 1/2"-20 threading, which are the same size as 1/2 ton trucks and this common 12-bolt and 9" upgrade. That being the case, I simply had to order a new McGard package for the rear wheels (Spline drive kit p/n 65530). These will only fit the 2" long lugs, not 3" extended/longer studs that are also an option (really only nessesary for use with a spacer). I belive the Strange axles actually have holes for both sizes if you decide to change between the two later (kind of pointless I imagine).

Then I saw some interesting offerings:

1) McGard has expanded their option from chrome, black chrome, and a colored-cap/ring to include a GOLD chrome design. While this is is pretty ugly on most cars, I'm sure there's a green w/tan-interior convertible out there that could make it work. The other obvious fit would be 10th Anniversary Firehawk designs that received gold painted wheels from the factory. This is even available on the Spline-drive (aka tuner lugs) and matching wheel locks.

2) If you stay with the stock M12xP1.5 thread size you can use some lugs that are targetyed at the Import community as the metric thread is common for them. Skunk2 Racing makes some trick looking forged AL7075 lug nuts. The superstrong aluminum/magnesium alloy is interesting looking and would be a good match for anyone running magnesium wheels (like the C5 Magnesium rim option). They're "hard-anodized with knurled ends for better grip"... interesting look (http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/Imag...ACC_LUGNUT.jpg) and cost a bit more than the McGard spline-drive nuts (~$6 per nut). These should drop weight as well.


If you want to go beyond 1/2"-20 and want closed-ended nuts you're out of luck. At that point you're also into what's called a "drive stud" that uses a flat-bottom nut and the shaft of the stud drives the wheel (as opposed to our normal 60-degree conical seat nuts that fit into chamfered wheel holes... at which point the nut is driving the wheel). Custom/race wheels are nessesary at this point (Weld makes some, as do other aftermarket guys).

5/8" and 11/16" drive studs are the norm in this area, and only open-ended nuts are available. Mark Williams, Moser, Strange, etc... make threaded studs and kurled lugs for these sizes, and even offer titanium studs and nuts as upgrades (to reduce ~2 pounds of rotating, unsprung weight).

Just thought I'd pass on the info.

BTW, if you want to stay with the stock M12xP1.5 kurled lug design but keep breaking the stock lugs... try the ARP versions as they seem to hold up MUCH better (and can be a nice upgrade for the front lugs if you're using 1/2" upgrades on the rear.

 

You could do like I did and just cut the studs shorter. I wanted to install 7/16" spacers on my rear wheels so I ordered a set of GM perfomance parts wheel studs which were way to long to use the McGard Chrome closed end conical lug nuts. So I cut each stud with a hack saw then chucked them in a drill press and took a file to the ends while the were spinning to give them a nice rounded shape so the nuts would go on easy. Of course if you wanted to do this you would need to knock them out of the axle to cut and file them.
Also if you decide to do this make sure you install a open ended lug nut on the studs before cutting that way you can clamp them with out damaging the threads and it will also knock the burr off when you remove them.
Hope this helps.