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Old Jan 10, 2003 | 10:09 PM
  #16  
Z28Nut's Avatar
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Originally posted by Geoff Chadwick
It's be great if someone made more of a page to it, because I want to upgrade housings, and I know the auto optiks suck... So relay in brighter bulbs? Beam pattern could be better, and I'd prefer to stay DOT approved (by looks) if I could.
This spring I'm upgrading my lights on my '94Z28 to the Hella 90mm h9 projector lights. They are DOT legal and easily converted to HID if you want. Or if you can afford the $650 each Hella has the Xenon HID 90mm projectors. The h9's are about $70 each and they are lowbeam or highbeam. They also have a 90mm fog projector that will match the headlights if they'll fit in my grill -- they're almost 6" deep and over 4" wide and tall.

http://bellsouthpwp.net/m/u/mulgeary/DSCN0100.JPG

http://www.autosupermart.com/shop/index.html Search for "Hella 90mm"

http://www.network54.com/Hide/Forum/...&lp=1042258051
Old Jan 11, 2003 | 08:28 AM
  #17  
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I am going to try and answer everyone's question here, so if I miss one, just repost it...
It's be great if someone made more of a page to it, because I want to upgrade housings, and I know the auto optiks suck... So relay in brighter bulbs? Beam pattern could be better, and I'd prefer to stay DOT approved (by looks) if I could.
I am trying to find time to work on a new page...it will simply be the '93-'97 Camaro Lighting Guide, but the bad news is, it may be as late as May before I get to it...A relay will only be necessary when running higher wattage bulbs, not just brighter bulbs. Sylvania Silverstars are much much brighter bulbs, but they are only 55W and DOT approved. That sounds like what you are looking for. Most of the higher wattage bulbs are not DOT approved. The stock housings aren't that great, I am just using them with this setup to hold me over until I can muster up a good reason to go with different housings (that cost more money)...AutoOptiks do suck, please no one get them (your welcome AutoOptiks) and the beam pattern will be much better with different housings.

Also, yes, pu12en12g has a lot devoted to lighting for our cars, as well as a few other guys...there are quite a few options, just all depends on how much you want to spend.
I'm assuming with the relay, the stock wiring will hold up fine, yes?
Yes. That was what the opening post was talking about. You will be fine with that setup - theoretically.

So now, where do I get a relay?
Is there a particular brand or kind I need?
I'm not too familiar with them so I'm pretty clueless here.
I may as well be saying "i need a thingamabobby to run the higher wattage bulb. do yall have one".
Let me know if there's only one relay that the guy at the store (which store?) will know what i mean, or if i need to ask for something more specific.
I got mine at Advance Auto Parts...they are available at any parts store though. The one I bought was an Optronics (brand name) "Pro Series"...all you need though is a 30-amp relay. If you want to just get the one like I got (to save yourself any searching) it is by the fog lights and stuff, hanging up...it has a black relay (block with 4 prongs out the bottom) in a package with a blue background. That should fix that problem. You will need two of them if you are upgrading both the headlight and fog light harnesses. But you just need a 30-amp (12 volt - which most all of them are) relay.
How do I install the relay with a direct power draw off the battery? Sorry for all the questions, but I really want to do this (correctly) and when it comes to wiring all I know is positive goes with positive, negative goes with negative, and usually the negative wire has a stripe on it.
I am going to try and take a few pics this weekend of how I wired mine in. If you guys can wait a couple of days, I will try and throw something together. No problem though, I understand your concern for doing it right. For the ones who may be following this that understands electrical pretty good, I will give a brief explanation of how to do this in a second post in this thread a little bit later...

I think that has most of the bases covered. I am going to try and get a website started maybe telling some of the basics (like the first post) so that everyone can just link to it when someone else has a question, and so that all can use it to maybe find out some more stuff...
Old Jan 11, 2003 | 09:04 AM
  #18  
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Originally posted by 94BlackBowtie
IMost of the higher wattage bulbs are not DOT approved. The stock housings aren't that great, I am just using them with this setup to hold me over until I can muster up a good reason to go with different housings (that cost more money
I've been in the same boat. I know higher wattage bulbs are usually not DOT approved, but if we took our housings, put in like a 75watt 9005 pair and a 85watt 9006 pair... When I've seen inspections they flick the lights on, they work, they turn them off. Might they be able to tell? I honestly doubt it. I have seen problems by some for all the "projector" headlights that people are getting on their imports these days. Not to mention I like my rectangular lights as opposed to round ones.

So, I'm stuck at the point where I want rectangular lights, and I want better headlights. And I dont want to pay $600 to upgrade my headlights, as I know a lot of people want them but would rather spend money elsewhere. So I'm guessing I'll be taking a look at the wiring and order some higher wattage bulbs siliconed into the housings. That's all I think I can do at this point, and to get it done would be the cost of bulbs, wiring and relays. None of which is really high.
Old Jan 11, 2003 | 10:30 AM
  #19  
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Geoff - don't forget the Hella FF75 upgrade...it is only about $75 per set of housings, plus bulbs. They are more rectangular...

OK, for the basics for the wiring, for those of you who can figure it out...
Here is a footprint of the relay...disregard the post in the middle (87a). This is the setup to use. Broken down, all that pic is showing is 85 terminal = Power from switch, 87 terminal = power from battery (direct hookup), 86 = Ground, and 30 being the output to the lights.

On the 87 terminal which runs power directly from the battery, there will need to be a fuse in line on that circuit. That is the basic description, so if you are "electrically inclined" you can figure it out...that's all I am, I'm not electrically smart by no means.

Just a tidbit more info...the low beams run off of a yellow wire, the fog lights off of a purple. I couldn't tap the power for the headlights before they split into two wires, so I had to wire both yellow wires (one from each side) into the 85 terminal. The fog lights are much simpler...just take the fuse box (under the hood) off of its base and find the purple wire that runs into the fuse for the fog lights. That's the power source for them. The rest is gravy really.

Like I said, I will try and work up something in more detail for you guys this weekend, but can't make any promises.
Old Jan 11, 2003 | 11:31 AM
  #20  
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Talking

Originally posted by 94BlackBowtie
Geoff - don't forget the Hella FF75 upgrade...it is only about $75 per set of housings, plus bulbs. They are more rectangular...
OR...check your local Advance Auto...I checked today and they were $59.xx/pair with bulbs, wiring, and relays. The cheapest price I've found online is $67.95/pair with bulbs, wiring, and relays.


Dalton...thanks for the help. I should be able to figure everything out from that.

Thanks again!

Brian
Old Jan 11, 2003 | 02:31 PM
  #21  
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So did you buy wires also (what gauge?) to run directly off the battery to the relay (providing the 12V & Gnd- pins 87 & 86), or did you tap into an existing 12V source and existing ground wire?
Also, did you just cut the purple wire, then place the relay in between the two cut parts (i.e. purple in @ 85, out at 30)??
Thanks again, just making sure i get the setup down since i'll likely get the 100W bulbs for the Pilot fogs. Thanks D,
J
Old Jan 11, 2003 | 04:23 PM
  #22  
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Question

One other question, where do I plug the relay in at? Do I use one of the spare connections in the fuse box?

I now realize this is the dumbest question I have asked ...I went and bought some female connectors today...those connect to the bottom of the relay. The wire that plugs into the 87 runs directly to the battery, 30 splices into the wires coming from the lights, ground 86...but where does 85 come from or go to?

And...the relay that came with the FF75 kit has a fuse mounted to it on the same side of the relay as the 30 circuit...do I still need one in line with the wire going to the battery?

Last question (I hope) what other wattage options are there for the H7? The only thing I've been able to find online are 55w or 100w. Do they make anything in between, i.e. 65w or 85w? I ask because I was thinking of running 85w in the lows and 100w in the highs...if possible.

Thanks,

Brian

Last edited by silver97Z; Jan 12, 2003 at 05:06 PM.
Old Jan 13, 2003 | 12:45 PM
  #23  
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OK, I will try to sum this all up as clear as possible...

I didn't get a chance to work on anything for the wiring required - so this is the best I can do. Also remember, this is just how I did it - I am not an electrician, and there may be better ways, so use this just as a guide of how it WILL work, and what CAN be done. This isn't the only way to do it.

You will have to have some extra wire...a spool of 16 gauge will be plenty enough. I ran a wire with an inline 30 amp fuse over to the battery (connected it to the little red wire block that sits on the right inner fender.) This wire will plug into the 87 terminal on the relay.

Like Brian said: " went and bought some female connectors today...those connect to the bottom of the relay."

On the ground I just bolted the relay to the core support (behind where the stock airbox is on LT1/3.4 V6 car...) and connected the ground behind that. Use some sort of "looped end" connector on the end of the wire to do so...

I cut the purple wire and had to run a new length of wire over to the 85 terminal (from switch - or top half of cut wire), then ran a new length of wire back to the purple wire (to lights - or bottom half of cut wire) from the 30 terminal.

silver97Z - I think you just got confused a little bit somehow...
I'll repaste this: 85 terminal = Power from switch, 87 terminal = power from battery (direct hookup), 86 = Ground, and 30 being the output to the lights.

On the headlights, what you will have is the wiring going into the 85 terminal (power from switch) will be two yellow wires for the lows (you will have to find the highs, as I haven't fooled with them yet). You will just have to trace these wires through the harness, and use a test light or something to be sure you get the right ones. The headlights are a little trickier because they involve two wires in and you have to find them...

As far as what came with the FF75's, I dunno, I'd really just have to check it out to be sure...but I would say you need a fuse on the 87 terminal to the battery.

As far as different bulbs go, e-mail me for about 10 or so links I have for places to buy bulbs, and you can check them.

Sorry I can't be more help guys, but I just had to do this as I went along as well.
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