i don't need to flare the fender itself, just need to bend the inner lip up a little. it's hitting the tire when i go over large bumps on the freeway. what's the best way to do this? i was thinking cutting a few little slots in the lip then bending each tab upward by hitting it with a hammer. sound good? any other ideas? the fender material is metal, not composite, right?

please don't ask why i need to do this. let's just say it's a combination of +56mm offset rims, eibach prokit, and 1/4" spacers... long story...

 

I say go to a Body Shop that does custom fabrication, or a shop that does hot rods. They'll be the best fit to do this fender roll.

 

i think you just bend it up with a hammer. I saw somewhere you should cut a seam in the paint with a razor right where you want to bend it so that way it won't crack the paint. I would put a dolly or something on the back side so when you are hitting it you don't distort the wheel well.

 

I say before you do anything take off your rear wheels and check the bump stop(rubber piece that keeps the rear axle from going to high) I had the same problem with my car and i have pretty much the same set up my bump stop was completely torn off on one side and falling off on the other side. i went to my chevy dealer got the pair for 40 bucks switched them and problem solved for me. Just my 2 cents before you spend money on body work. Let me know if it works for you.

 

ok, thanks for the advice, but i did it myself this morning with a hammer, a hacksaw, and spraypaint. again, i didn't need to roll the fender itself, just bend the inner tab upwards so it wouldn't hit the tire.

using the hacksaw, i cut 2 slits in the tab. using the hammer wrapped in a t-shirt, i pounded the tab upwards. it moved easier than expected. the paint on the tab did crack, so i peeled off all the loose chips and spray painted the tab. it's not visible unless you're on the ground looking up into the wheelwell.

anyway, i guess it went well. i'll find out after this winter when i see if it rusts or not. really hope i didn't screw this up...

stang killa, the bump stops are in place, and i even have the 1/2" spacers from SLP that lowers them 1/2" closer to the axle...

 

1) you can use a wooden baseball bat (use an old one that you'll NEVER use again... it will get eaten) and roll/pry it upwards by bracing off the tire.

or 2) use a Haweka fender lip roller. You can rent them from Tirerack.com for ~$50 (only S&H each way). This is very common with Audi and BMW guys. Many BMW or Audi clubs have someone that probably bought one for a few hundred bucks and will be willing to rent it out to you (that way you don't have to wait on the LONG list that TireRack has, and will probably get some hands-on help as well if you talk nice to him ). The Tirerack kit comes with a video and heat gun as well.

either way you'll want to use a heat gun (not a hair dryer) and nuke the lip nice an hot when you do it. This will make the metal a bit more plyable (not much), but more importantly, it will prevetn paint from cracking.

There is also a lip-rolling kit you can buy from some company in California that provides templates, the metal arch/anvil to use, and they reccomend scoring the lip (using one of the templates) to prevent cracking.

A quick seafch on the Internet also found a Mustang lip roller from Chichane Motorsports (http://www.chicanesport.com/) for ~$60.

 

Do you have a link or part # for the 1/2 spacer? How much was it thanks?

 

you got it...