Eibachs and 17x11 TT2's
Eibachs and 17x11 TT2's
I just bought the lowering package from Thunder Racing which includes the Eibach springs. I'm really pissed off about the BMR adjustable panhard rod - why the f$%k does it have the adjuster in the middle!! The center is the worst place for deflection under loading - the bar is constantly under compressive and tensile loading as it is the lateral locating link for the rear axle!! Every other adjustable PH bar has the adjustable end links
Anyway...... that 's not my question.
Question is for guys out there with experience on my set-up. I've got 17x11 TT2's on the back of my SS with Nitto DR's. Do the eibach's lower the car to the point of having to roll the outer fender lip?? I DO NOT want to bend/hammer/roll anything as I will be returning the car to stock later. If they do hit is it possible to slide some spring rubbers in to raise the spring rate a little bit. I sure this thread has been beat to death - but I'm new to the borad. Thanks.
Anyway...... that 's not my question. Question is for guys out there with experience on my set-up. I've got 17x11 TT2's on the back of my SS with Nitto DR's. Do the eibach's lower the car to the point of having to roll the outer fender lip?? I DO NOT want to bend/hammer/roll anything as I will be returning the car to stock later. If they do hit is it possible to slide some spring rubbers in to raise the spring rate a little bit. I sure this thread has been beat to death - but I'm new to the borad. Thanks.
I'm assuming you have 315's out back so yes you will more than likely need to roll the inner fender lip. If you dont you will shred the sidewall on your tires when hitting bumps or having a load in the back. I would use a baseball bat to roll the lip. Just take the end of the bat and wedge it between your tire and fender lip then just roll the lip in. I've helped someone do it and it turned out great. You might also have to knock in the inner fender well, we did just for precautions.
I'm still puzzled why they made the panhard bar adj. like that. Your theory on the weakness of it would stand to reason. Makes ya wonder why they made it like.
I'm still puzzled why they made the panhard bar adj. like that. Your theory on the weakness of it would stand to reason. Makes ya wonder why they made it like.
Yeah - call it the mechanical engineer in me if you like, but the adjuster in the middle sucks my nuts. I have no problems with the inner wheel housings at all. I've had three guys in the car with the stock springs on the car and haven't had probs with the tire hittings the outer lip either. Only one time when I had the car loaded up with tools and junk for the strip did the tires ever hit - and they barely brushed. I would rather not roll the lip - but I'm tired of the stock 4x4 look - so if I have to......
Guys with 17x11 TT2's and Eibachs let me know about your experiences.
Guys with 17x11 TT2's and Eibachs let me know about your experiences.
I have the Pro-Kit so it won't drop the car as bad as the sport line. I have my reservations about the Pro-kit as I had a '94 9C1 Caprice that I put Eibachs on and they sucked. The front drop was so low that it hit the bumpstops on every good sized bump and the rear end was up in the air - giving the awesome late 70's-early 80's jacked-up look. I ended up putting a 80lb speaker/amp box in the trunk just to get it level! But I've been eyeballing posts for the last 6 months about the LS1 car Eibachs and have heard good things - so I decided to give them a shot.
The TT2's have different backspacing then the 11" wide ZR1 wheels so that's why they never hit the inner wells. Still concerned about the outer lips.....
The TT2's have different backspacing then the 11" wide ZR1 wheels so that's why they never hit the inner wells. Still concerned about the outer lips.....
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