ebay crossdrilled rotors
08-25-2003, 05:48 PM
#2
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: MI
Posts: 88
Can you please provide a link? To be honest, I don't think I would trust buying rotors off of Ebay, if they are a no-name brand that is.
I purchased PowerSlot slotted rotors all around for mine, and while I can't vouch that I was able to feel an increase in stopping power or fade resistance, I can say that they work excellent and don't rust. The PowerSlots ran me about $99 each, and I think are worth it. I know you didn't ask about them, but I wanted to give you feedback on what I have.
A link to the rotors you are considering buying would be very helpful.
I purchased PowerSlot slotted rotors all around for mine, and while I can't vouch that I was able to feel an increase in stopping power or fade resistance, I can say that they work excellent and don't rust. The PowerSlots ran me about $99 each, and I think are worth it. I know you didn't ask about them, but I wanted to give you feedback on what I have.
A link to the rotors you are considering buying would be very helpful.
08-25-2003, 06:44 PM
#3
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: High Orbit
Posts: 1,519
Check out www.irotors.com $309 for all 4 rotors cross drilled/slotted and zinc washed ($259 minus the zinc wash).
As for the Powerslots, I've got those at all 4 corners too - with Hawk pads. Still look pretty good, stops great. They actually do rust, but as soon as you drive around and hit the brakes a few times, it's gone, no biggie.
As for the Powerslots, I've got those at all 4 corners too - with Hawk pads. Still look pretty good, stops great. They actually do rust, but as soon as you drive around and hit the brakes a few times, it's gone, no biggie.
08-25-2003, 09:32 PM
#4
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 906
Do a search cross drilled rotors are for nothing but looks. They crack and warp way faster than regular rotors. Here is pic of Brents cracking Baer rotor. Pic And this is a Baer not some cheap no name crap off ebay. Not only do they crack they also wear out your pads faster (cheese grater effect) and they do not stop as well as regular rotors ( less surface contact). So if you want to look cool go ahead buy those, but I would just stick to regular or slotted rotors. Also on a side note, Hawk pads stop good but they produce more dust than stock pads. If you are like me and hate dust get some ceramic pads or EBCs that stop just as good as Hawks and don't ruin your nice rims.
08-26-2003, 03:38 AM
#5
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: High Orbit
Posts: 1,519
I've had the Hawk's for a long time now and they don't dust that bad at all - but they do their job extremely well. They've proven themselves in 2 different "panic stop" situations for me. I don't mind the trade off.
As for the cracking with the cross drilled rotors, you're right, that's always a possibility.. It doesn't necessarily happen to everyone who's got them, but it's not something to ignore.
As for the cracking with the cross drilled rotors, you're right, that's always a possibility.. It doesn't necessarily happen to everyone who's got them, but it's not something to ignore.
08-26-2003, 10:41 AM
#6
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Burlington, NJ
Posts: 1,367
the drilled and slotted rotors are also hard to turn. i have been looking for almost six months on where i can get them cut, and have found no such place that turns drilled or slotted rotors.
as for the pads, do not get raybestos ceramic pads. i had such bad luck with them, numerous sets of warped rotors, cracked pads, and pep boys wont even trade them off. pissed me off, i paid 85 bucks for pads that jack up rotors, and crack after only 1000 miles.
as for the pads, do not get raybestos ceramic pads. i had such bad luck with them, numerous sets of warped rotors, cracked pads, and pep boys wont even trade them off. pissed me off, i paid 85 bucks for pads that jack up rotors, and crack after only 1000 miles.
08-26-2003, 11:13 AM
#7
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Tn
Posts: 400
What do you do to get better braking. My Impala stops on a dime. I did some modification (impalassforum trick) on the system but its still stock and soon as I touch the brake it stops. The trick allows you to let more braking power to the rear with even fluid running to all four corners. I dont think the trick can be done because the fluid resovior are different on the cars.
So do I do braded lines? The brakes on these cars suck big time.. I hate when you mash the brake and the car does a nose dive. The rears are not even working and Im right on the bumper of a old lady.
Where do I get these ceramic pads. I got some pretty good ones now but three days of driving and the rims get dirty on both cars.
So do I do braded lines? The brakes on these cars suck big time.. I hate when you mash the brake and the car does a nose dive. The rears are not even working and Im right on the bumper of a old lady.
Where do I get these ceramic pads. I got some pretty good ones now but three days of driving and the rims get dirty on both cars.
08-26-2003, 09:21 PM
#8
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: looking for a flow bench so Brook and I can race
Posts: 3,505
Originally posted by Newbie97
What do you do to get better braking. My Impala stops on a dime. I did some modification (impalassforum trick) on the system but its still stock and soon as I touch the brake it stops. The trick allows you to let more braking power to the rear with even fluid running to all four corners. I dont think the trick can be done because the fluid resovior are different on the cars.
So do I do braded lines? The brakes on these cars suck big time.. I hate when you mash the brake and the car does a nose dive. The rears are not even working and Im right on the bumper of a old lady.
Where do I get these ceramic pads. I got some pretty good ones now but three days of driving and the rims get dirty on both cars.
What do you do to get better braking. My Impala stops on a dime. I did some modification (impalassforum trick) on the system but its still stock and soon as I touch the brake it stops. The trick allows you to let more braking power to the rear with even fluid running to all four corners. I dont think the trick can be done because the fluid resovior are different on the cars.
So do I do braded lines? The brakes on these cars suck big time.. I hate when you mash the brake and the car does a nose dive. The rears are not even working and Im right on the bumper of a old lady.
Where do I get these ceramic pads. I got some pretty good ones now but three days of driving and the rims get dirty on both cars.
I did a big write up on why they suck. I'd love to be proven wrong.
08-27-2003, 08:10 AM
#11
On permanent vacation
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Michigan is a decent state.
Posts: 520
Originally posted by Newbie97
Im trying to get better braking. Thats all. I have heard all the horrible storys of these rotors. Help me with better braking if you know so much.
Im trying to get better braking. Thats all. I have heard all the horrible storys of these rotors. Help me with better braking if you know so much.
Less Pad/Rotor contact surface is a bad thing.
And then are more prone to failure.
For more do a search in LS1 tech under treyZ28- an old thread but a good one. Same thread is in advanced tech.
08-28-2003, 06:06 PM
#12
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 252
Originally posted by Newbie97
The brakes on these cars suck big time.. I hate when you mash the brake and the car does a nose dive. The rears are not even working and Im right on the bumper of a old lady.
The brakes on these cars suck big time.. I hate when you mash the brake and the car does a nose dive. The rears are not even working and Im right on the bumper of a old lady.
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