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Crusty 4th gen headlights (pics)

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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 11:56 AM
  #16  
Brangeta's Avatar
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From: Dallas, Texas
Supposedly there is a moisture drain duct on the back of the 98+ headlamps. If there is moisture in there that won't go away, it'd be good to check and see that the drain duct on the back isn't clogged or something before drilling a hole.
Old Apr 14, 2007 | 12:39 PM
  #17  
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From: houston, tx
Originally Posted by Critter
i just read this. you just wetsanded them and they still look back? are you sure its not on the inside? after you take of the top layer of plastic and buff it it should be as good as new?

if there is moisture on the inside of the lense you can drill a SMALL hole on the bottom of the lense and it will get rid of it once you run the lights for a while.
my current lights haven't been touched by sandpaper

the older ones got ****ed up and were foggy as ****, and still stained yellow, they werent crusty, but they werent clear at all.

all of the stuff on my lights is on the outside, and everything I seem to use on them doesnt last.


I can wetsand them, polish them and then theyll just have a foggy sanded look.
Old Apr 14, 2007 | 04:20 PM
  #18  
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From: fort worth/burleson Tx
Originally Posted by plusandrew
my current lights haven't been touched by sandpaper

the older ones got ****ed up and were foggy as ****, and still stained yellow, they werent crusty, but they werent clear at all.

all of the stuff on my lights is on the outside, and everything I seem to use on them doesnt last.


I can wetsand them, polish them and then theyll just have a foggy sanded look.
u need to use a cutting compound after you sand it the step down with the compounds. if you have a buffer it should be super easy with a wool pad
Old Apr 14, 2007 | 06:42 PM
  #19  
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From: Houston(clear lake)
Dont be scared use 2000 grit with water. After that like said use a compound and then polish out. This sounds a lot like paint work.
Old Apr 26, 2007 | 11:18 AM
  #20  
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Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Santa Barbara, Ca
Well .. like I said, those are BEFORE polishing. The sanding cuts the crusty
plastic off, but it will leave the plastic white and not too transparent. Polish
will clean the fine scratches off that create the whiteish hue. The pictures
dont show the whole story, they make the before pictures look better. The
yellow was gone, that alone made them look better, but polishing is REQUIRED.

Tom

Originally Posted by MeenZ28
Sorry Bro, they dont look that much better...
Old Apr 26, 2007 | 11:31 AM
  #21  
km9v's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,296
From: Beaumont, TX
I used Meguiar's Plast-X this weekend & it worked great w/o a lot of effort. I did it buy hand, no electric buffing. No more yellow. Sorry, I didn't take any pics, but that stuff works great. $5 @ AZ.
Old Apr 27, 2007 | 09:43 PM
  #22  
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i used liquid clay bar on 2 cars today and they both came out a lot better than the pictures that are up. it took about 5 minutes total, and i used a sponge
Old May 7, 2007 | 04:45 AM
  #23  
sbca96's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Santa Barbara, Ca
I bought the Meguiar's Plast-X, and resanded with 1000 and then followed
with 2000 wet sanding paper. The lens becomes almost white and barely is
see thru. I waited for it to dry, and rubbed it out by hand with the Meguiars.
What a difference. I have yet to be disappointed with a Meguiars product!

Tom
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