Best Quality Paint?
Best Quality Paint?
I am looking to repaint part or all of my car. I am curious as to what the best brand is. I am going to probably use spray cans. I bought a cheap can and a can of duplicolor and the duplicolor was far better quality. What brands should I get or stay away from? Thanks.
Re: Best Quality Paint?
Originally posted by firebirdjosh
I am looking to repaint part or all of my car. I am curious as to what the best brand is. I am going to probably use spray cans. I bought a cheap can and a can of duplicolor and the duplicolor was far better quality. What brands should I get or stay away from? Thanks.
I am looking to repaint part or all of my car. I am curious as to what the best brand is. I am going to probably use spray cans. I bought a cheap can and a can of duplicolor and the duplicolor was far better quality. What brands should I get or stay away from? Thanks.
This IS for a beater, right??? If so, any quality paint designed for cars will work fine. Do not use the cheap $.99 cans or even Krylon. Get yourself 12 - 16 cans and have fun. Highly recomend getting the can "trigger". Easier to "pull" the trigger than to "push down" for long periods of time.
If you want a NICE 50 - 50 job, then this should do. ( Looks good at 50 feet at 50 mph.) Otherwise, do it the right way or take it to a shop. Even some of those $199 paint your car specials are OK as long as you spend plenty of time on the body work first. Good luck.
If you want a NICE 50 - 50 job, then this should do. ( Looks good at 50 feet at 50 mph.) Otherwise, do it the right way or take it to a shop. Even some of those $199 paint your car specials are OK as long as you spend plenty of time on the body work first. Good luck.
Touch up is another story. You can fill up the chip with touch-up paint. When completely dry, after a day, you can wet sand the area with 1600-2000 grit paper then polish it out. The damage should blend in nicely. If the color was a perfect match and you took your time adding layers of paint till it was the same height or higher, it should be nearly invisible.
if it's on a fender or bumper and you hit something...and the paint is chipped and it's grey...then that's plastic. Plastic won't rust. About the only places that will is the doors, factory hood, rear quarters and trunk lid(vert).
I'd stay away from the spray can method also... which part of the car is damaged? The only part that could rust are the quarter panels or the hood.
Here's a temporary fix that I would probably try first before painting the area with a spray can. Its very easy to do and would give much better results. It would hold up no problem until you're able to have the damage repaired by a professional.
The total cost of all the supplies shouldn't run you more than $50-75 for low - medium quality base and clear... I'd ask the place you buy the material from to see what your choices are.
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I'd recommend that you go to an automotive paint supply place and purchase a pint of base and a pint of clear. Just give them the paint code for your car and they can do the rest. Then clear off any loose flakes of paint around the damaged area by sanding back lightly or taking a wire brush. Wipe it down with a quick swipe of paint thinner and let dry so it'll make good contact. Then with a foam brush or whatever you have handy put several coats of base over the gray area letting each coat flash for a couple of minutes. Just keep doing that until the gray is completely covered up and matches the surrounding good paint... the area will be dull of course
After you're satisfied with the color just go over the damaged area with a few coats of clear. You may want to wait a couple minutes longer with the clear to make sure it sets up well. Brush it on lightly too so you don't have it running all over the place. Maybe even overlap the damaged area that you covered in base with the clear slightly to prevent any paint from around the surrounding area to flake off.
Like I said... it wouldn't be a bad temporary fix and would be harder to spot from a distance than a spray can special
If you want the coats to dry quicker then paint it out in the sunlight... if you have time to waste and want to stay cool you could do it in a garage... just give it longer times in between coats. The base will cover up the gray area quicker if you allow each coat to set up before you go over it again.
Here's a temporary fix that I would probably try first before painting the area with a spray can. Its very easy to do and would give much better results. It would hold up no problem until you're able to have the damage repaired by a professional.
The total cost of all the supplies shouldn't run you more than $50-75 for low - medium quality base and clear... I'd ask the place you buy the material from to see what your choices are.---
I'd recommend that you go to an automotive paint supply place and purchase a pint of base and a pint of clear. Just give them the paint code for your car and they can do the rest. Then clear off any loose flakes of paint around the damaged area by sanding back lightly or taking a wire brush. Wipe it down with a quick swipe of paint thinner and let dry so it'll make good contact. Then with a foam brush or whatever you have handy put several coats of base over the gray area letting each coat flash for a couple of minutes. Just keep doing that until the gray is completely covered up and matches the surrounding good paint... the area will be dull of course
After you're satisfied with the color just go over the damaged area with a few coats of clear. You may want to wait a couple minutes longer with the clear to make sure it sets up well. Brush it on lightly too so you don't have it running all over the place. Maybe even overlap the damaged area that you covered in base with the clear slightly to prevent any paint from around the surrounding area to flake off.
Like I said... it wouldn't be a bad temporary fix and would be harder to spot from a distance than a spray can special
If you want the coats to dry quicker then paint it out in the sunlight... if you have time to waste and want to stay cool you could do it in a garage... just give it longer times in between coats. The base will cover up the gray area quicker if you allow each coat to set up before you go over it again.
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