I posted this in the LT1 Tech section but no response.
Anybody think that it is not worth the $225.00?pro's/con's of adding this?I am installing a new cam with some decent lift(.6xx/.6xx) but it wont be reved past 6,100-6,200 rpm with my blown stroker I'm guessing.
It is still benifitial to get this even though I wont be revving to the moon?

any info would be appreciated
Thanks
John



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John
My Blown396Z site
Silver 96 Z/28,6 spd.
Team NEDyno/Quest Racing supercharged 398 in progress

 

go for the rev kit,, i have one on my lt4, and it works awsome , no vale float at 7000 rpm, get the tool right away to install them , they will tell you you dont need the tool if your heads are off but it is a pain to keep all the springs aligned while placing the head on and starting some head bolts

 

What is the tool called?
I'm probably going to order it through Nu-Tek Motorsports they should have it right?

Thanks for you help
seeya
John

 

John,
Give me a shout! I have an extra rev kit and the tool!

Dean
ww.nedyno.com

 

Thanks Dean

seeya
John

 

i have the AFR kit on my 400.
www.competitionproducts.com also makes a kit. Its a little less expensive.

The tool is just a valve spring compressor for briggs and stratton motors. AFR sells it for 35bucks and you can get an identical one from JC whitney for 10.

Don't try to put the springs in b4 torquing the heads. You will not get a true torque reading bc the bolts will be very hard to turn.

The best way to put in the springs is by doing two lifters at each end first. It will hold the aluminum bar in place. Then, do the other lifters that are on the base circle of the cam. After you got all them, rotate the motor over and get the others as the lifters go on the basecircle.
Best thing to do is leave the fingers of the compressor real loose. Just so they hold the spring slightly.

I also found using a big screwdriver to slowly work it out of the compressor to the lifter bushing helps. Watch for flying springs.

 

Now call me crazy... but a hydra-rev kit is designed to help control hyd-lifter pump up at hi-rpm. From what I have seen Hyd-lifters, don't really start having pump-up issues until around 6000 RPM. If the motor is only going to 6200, what good is the Rev-Kit really going to do??
Seem to me like it is adding extra load on the valvetrain for no real reason.
On a motor that goes past 6500, I can definatlely see the benefits and you'll get no arguments from me there. But on this project is it really gonna be worth the hassle?

 

I'd say even if only going to 6200rpms it's well worth it on a forced induction engine, especially if running any substantial amount of boost.

At lower rpms it will give you better valve control if you have a cam with some aggressive ramps. Before my rev-kit was installed I would see 12-14" of vacuum at idle. After the install I was seeing 18" of vacuum. I'd have to say that if anything it relieves stress from the valvetrain.

BTW, the tool they sell to compress the springs is a piece of crap. It works but it starts to go bad pretty quickly.

 

It is totally worth it, My friend bought it for his chevelle... and it has done wonders. Before he got it he said he could not rev past 6400 RPMs and after installing it he could rev to 7000RPM I want to get one for my car, but I have more essentials needed.. ie T56 and stuff....
If you have the money I would totally get the rev kit

 

Cool thanks for the replies guy's
I am picking up a Hydra-Rev kit.I think it's cheap insurance.If I pick up 500rpm's and the power doesn't drop off as quickly it could be a extra 50hp for $229.00.I have heard valve float can start as low as 5,800rpm.

Thanks again
John

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John
My Blown396Z site
Silver 96 Z/28,6 spd.
Team NEDyno/Quest Racing supercharged 398 in progress

 

There's a good article on the kit in the new GMHTP.

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TimbrSS
96 Camaro SS M6, ATI D1SC, HOT LT4 conversion, RK Sport headers, Borla. Star stage 3 carbon. KBDDSFC, LGM Swaybars, LCA's, PHR. Hotchkis STB. Eibach Prokit, Bilstiens.
Central Ohio F-body Association

 

They make them, but you can run so much spring pressure with a solid roller (and the lifter is lighter), it's usually not required.

 

All the Isky Solid-Roller setups (for conventional GM's) come with a Rev-Kit from the factory.