When the thermostat is closed, is it just pushing water against the closed thermostat to keep the pressure up? seems like this would lead me to think that having an electric water pump would free up more than just parasitic loss from the beltpower. Any ideas on this?

 

It circulates the water the same, it just bypasses the radiator so your engine warms up faster, but not uncontrollably faster.

 

mechanical water pumps do hold back your engine and electric pump allow you to put those horses to better use but to put one in an every day driver would put extra wear on the charging system costing more money than usual-that is after initial upgrade to run pump(electric pumps are also not made to run constantly so they will burn out faster too)

 

circulates water/coolant thats already in the engine. just like how the coolant bypasses the heaters when the heat is off. electric water pump is not a good mod imo. alot more stress on charging system and only see a 4hp improvement in . plus they cost over 450.00. http://www.gmhightechperformance.com.../photo_33.html

 

Actually been quite happy with the results of running an electric pump as the car seems to run cooler overall and expecially if caught in traffic. I'm cheating some as the car is a C4 but they are known to run quite hot as a rule of thumb. With a 160 thermo and decent weather, the car never goes over 171 degrees and usually idles in the 165-168 range in 80 degree heat w/o the air on. This is with a .040 over block, 398ci and almost 13 to 1 compression. Sure I've got a dyno sheet lying around somewhere showing a small gain, but I'd run one again in a heartbeat just for the cooler temps.

If you believe the mfg spec's, you've got to do whole lot of driving to wear one out.

 

I have a 383 LT1 with an electric WP in my daily driver. Car runs pretty cool.

 

Somehow based upon where you live, that is very believeable to me. I'd be more concerned on how to get one to warm up vs cool down. Damn, it's gotta get cold up there in the winter. Whew...

 

Its a summer car only and it gets up to about 100 F here in July/August.

 

How does it put more stress?

 

so while the thermostat is closed all the water in the block is being moved by the wheel of the waterpump? which is driven by ur cam/ timing chain, so wouldnt getting an ewp also help with revs, or is this another one of those it will help but not enough for the price tag kinda of things?

 

after looking at the graph it almost seems worth it, it might only make 4 more hp at peak, but it defintly adds to the whole curve, wich is what its all about right? when i have some extra money i think ill get an ewp. IMO its worth it

 

One of those whom believes a bunch of little things adds up in the end and any time you can find something that helps, I jump on it.

 

That is a lot of money for the power gained, ignoring the other maladies that will come with having an electric water pump. I guess this is where the bolt-on idealists enter?

I would put the money towards a set of coated bearings—that too many people skimp on with an endurance engine like a daily driver—for a future rebuild or a dyno tune.

 

yea im one of those guys, but im also one of those guys who has a forged 383 with le heads/cam under his hood

 

When I said little things can add up.......I meant ALL the little things. Below was a sign for the car competing at the O'Reilly AutoRama. (Best in Class btw) On top of that everything must be working perfectly. Any time I can find a 4 hp gain, got a grin on my face. Thinking about a new cam right now even.

Engine and Tuning: Scott Whitehorn - A&S Automotive, Keller Texas

Blueprinted 12.8 to 1 compression, 398ci splayed LT4 block with thermo and friction coatings, 8 quart DRM oil pan, Eagle 3.875 forged crank, Howard's powder forged lightweight 6" rods, Lunati gas ported custom lightweight pistons with J&E rings, Custom Comp Cams camshaft, 1.65 Pro Mag rockers with Morel lifters, Titanium retainers and PSI springs, Ram Air induction, 1200cfm Arizona Speed & Marine billet throttle body, Billet MAF, 42lb SVO injectors and Aeromotive adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Walbro 255 LPH fuel pump. Tuned using LT1.edit software.

Sheetmetal Intake: Jeb Burnett, Little Rock AR

Heads: Trevor Johnson Cylinder Heads/Lloyd Elliott, Rockwall/Red Oak TX

23 degree Trick Flow aluminum heads with 2.08/1.625 valves and thermo coatings

Exhaust:

Hand-built 1 3/4th stepped to 1 7/8ths coated headers with tapered merge collectors, Self locking header bolts, Hand-built dual 3" exhaust with X-pipe and DynoMax mufflers

Ignition:

Delteg Multi-coil Optispark replacement

Cooling:

Be Cool HD radiator, Meziere HD electric pump with 160 degree thermo

Drive Train and Suspension:

ZF 6 speed transmission with (HD Dodge Viper) 4:11 gears in a Dana 44 rear-end, Dual Mass flywheel with HD pressure plate and ceramic disk clutch, Z-51 suspension with Bilstein gas shocks and Doug Rippie MotorSports relocating arms

Paint:

Sebring Silver base with six coats of clear by owner.