If I am not mistaken 3rd and 4th gens come with 1310 series U-joints. Right?

I am upgrading the housing in my 95 TA to a 12 bolt Moser so I don't have to worry about blowing up the rear in the coming drag race season. What I need to know is how durable are 1310 joints and if the 1310/1350 u-joints are any stronger (what I am referring to is the half and half joint used to connect a 1350 yolk to a 1310 axle). How much hp can the 1310 hold, the 1310/1350, and the 1350?

I am going to order the axle with the 1350 yolk, but I need to know about budgeting for a new driveshaft. I already have the GMPP aluminum shaft (with slight high RPM vibrations) and would like opinions on a cromoly shaft or a carbon fiber shaft.

Who all has jumped through these hoops already?

BBB

 

stock is 1310 you are correct. The 1310-1350 conversion ujoint is imo of course junk. I would if you are planning on giving the rear alot of abuse get a 1350 setup. I am going to use a Mark Williams driveshaft, but I do like the Denny's Nitrous Ready shaft. Get it with solid u-joints (1350) and you should not have a problem with the shaft.

 

Everyone says the stock joints are 1310's but I measured mine and they are they were too small be a 1310. The retaining clips on the 1310 are also in the wrong place vs. stock. FWIW my measurements matched a Saginaw 3-R joint perfectly.

Not trying to argue with anyone but if you have a set of calipers you may want to measure the U-joint in the DS you have now just to verify. It only takes a few min to drop the DS.

You can find the dimensions for most U-joints here:

http://www.drivelineshop.com/specsheet.htm

But if you're replaceing everyhing with 1350 stuff then it doesnt matter...