Russ,

I'd appreciate the feedback also. I am ordering a new shortblock from them this week for a twin turbo LT1 I'm doing in a 69 Camaro. They will only be doing the shortblock for me also, and I was going to disassemble and confirm all the clearances and measurements myself (told Nick that up front).

I'm just curious what he finds.

Jody

 

I'd like to know too.

 

I have always been taught to spin the engine at every step along the way while building it. That way if it all of a sudden gets hard to spin or stops spinning you immediately know what it is. I know you didn't build this engine, but it leaves me to question why it got this far along without realizing it was hard to turn. Good luck, let us know what it is.

 

I'm dropping in my Nu-Tek 383 this weekend. Dave Brown told me about your problem a few weeks ago and told me to check the crank on mine. It took just a hair over 25# to turn over. whew!

It definitely sounds like your clearances are WAY too tight. Hopefully everything turns out for the better soon. Nick's always been a real stand-up guy w/ me.

 

dumb question, but how are you guys measuring this? With a dial indicated torque wrench or a click type?

 

I used a regular old torque wrench...no dials here. I can spin the crank by hand using either the flywheel or the crank pulley for the blower.

 

would outside temp have anything to do with turning a new motor? like vs. being in Florida or some place warmer? just curious

 

We haven't yet seen the bearing clearances on the build sheet, but I will bet somebody swapped a rod end-for-end or worse, swapped two caps. Otherwise, what's piston/bore clearance, and oil clearance?

 

Still waiting to hear back from Nick.

Hoping to get the engine back next week so I can get it ready for the N vs S shootout.

Ill post when I get the info..

Russ

 

What ever happened with your motor?

 

now you gus got me worring about my motor. When I built it I did like somone said and turned it over every step of the way, with just the crank it was very easy. after the whole rotating assembly was in it took mabye 25 foot pounds. after the valvesprings and spark plugs it was tough, I was able to torque the harmonic balancer bolt to 65 or was it 75 whatever the spec was, without holding the motor. 11:1 CR though.

 

Sorry, forgot about this post.

The engine is back in the car after a rebuild. The engine takes less to turn over, but I still had a hard start issue.

Nick said there was nothing wrong with the engine.

The car is built and at a shop being tweaked a little, also addressing the start issue.

With my new job this year my free time is very very limited so I had to put the car in someone elses hands to complete.

I still feel confident in Nick's work and would recommend him. His oppertunity is turn around time.

I guess the real test is when we get it on the track and put it through its paces.

I will post when I get the car back and we see how it runs.

Been a long 2.5 year rebuild. *sigh*

Thanks

Russ

 

Glad to hear its on the way to coming back on the road.

I know what you mean about taking a long time to get something done. I'm just now getting comfortable with taking mine out and not having to think about it breaking down at every corner after close to 3 years since I first tore the stock motor out of it.

 

FWIW I had to switch to a vette starter (header clearance issues), but as a bonus it starts up the car much better (higher gear reduction? - it seems to give a much higher cranking rpm also).

that and an optima solved all my starting issues.


Chris

 

I put a PowerMaster gear reduction starter on my car....figured it would probably need all the help it could get, especialy hot. No problems so far, it cranks it over really nicely.