ive already posted this in LT1 tech so i apologize for anyone whos read it twice but i need all the advice i can get.
okay gotta a few questions, will a cc305 cam have clearance issues with
Eagle Specialty Products Lightweight I-Beam "SIR" Rods, 5140 Steel, SBC 6.000" length when running a 3.75" stroker crankshaft?

also ive read somewhere that you cant use the windage tray that secures with the main bearing bolts with a 3.75" stroke. so should i just pitch it and buy the cheaper ARP stud kit without the windage tray bolts?

will 6" rods with a 3.75" stroke in a block not bored create 383 cubes?

what size specs do i need to look for when buying rings to fit the stock pistons, when i havent bored the cylinders? the cylinders where about 4.004-4.005 after honing.

will i have issues with too high of compression with the stock pistons 3.75" stroke and a cc305? i plan on running 91 octane and gettin a tune but i definately dont want knocking.

 

It might, those rods need to be clearanced for the cam.

Get a oil pan with a tray in it, that will solve the issue.

No the 4.03" bore makes the 383

Displacement is found by this formula

bore x bore x stroke x cylinders x .7854

You need a 4.00" ring or a 4.005" ring set

Stock pistons? You cant run stock pistons with a 3.75" stroke

Bret

 

i realize the stock pistons arent a good choice but i wont be adding anymore power adders and i thought they could be used? do the skirts cause some kind of problems or something?

 

The skirts must be shorter to clear the crank, but it's the piston pin height that determines the piston height to the top of the block.

A stock piston for an 3.48 stroke will stick out the top of the block.

 

It doesn't matter if the stock pistons are not the best choice.... THEY ARE NOT A CHOICE WITH THE STROKER CRANK!

Stick out of the block is a understatement!

Bret

 

haha okay i get the point, okay so i dont neccesarily have to go with new forged pistons right? does someone make a good nonforged piston, i know everyone hates to hear the word price but i really dont want to have to spend 600 on pistons when i wont be spraying or supercharging the engine

 

Keith Black Hypereutectic would work.

FWIW my rule with motors is don't build a cheap motor once that you have to build again and again because 3 $5,000 motors cost more than 1 $10,000 motor.

 

yeah id like to spend the money and do it right with all forged internals and run the hell out of the engine but i just cant afford it right now. in college and i really only need the engine to last 2-3 years, until i have my mechanical engineering degree. i wont be running at the track and just want the power for the street. so heres what im looking at gettin, i realize its not optimum for a lot of people but please let me know if you see any major problems with this setup. again thank you for all your time helping me.

UEM-KB122-8 Piston, Hypereutectic, Flat Top, 4.000 in. Bore, 1/ 16 in., 1/ 16 in., 3/ 16 in. Ring Grooves, Chevy, 383, Set $236.69

Eagle 3.750" Stroke Crankshaft, 1 Piece Seal, Internal Balance $299.9

Eagle Specialty Products Lightweight I-Beam "SIR" Rods, 5140 Steel, SBC 5.700" length, 565 grams, Rated to 500 horsepower (press fit) $299.99

this plus all bearings and rings, not to mention oil pump and such. which style of that piston is best for compression on a N/A engine?