I am building my 1st stroker, and only my 2nd motor. I purchased a Speed-o-motive 383 Mighty mouse kit. Anyways, I have no problems with the throws, or the top rod bolts hitting the cam, where I'm connecting is the bottom of the rod nut is hitting inside the block, not on the oil rail, down below that. It looks like GM notched this block a bit from the factory, but mine hits, just a tad, so what do I do ??? Should I take it to the machine shop, and let them grind it, the only problem is, I have already had them install the cam berrings, and freeze plugs, so I'm guessing after they grind ( or I grind ) it will need to be tanked again ??? Anyways, I've heard of the cam issues, and the oil rail, but have not heard of this one yet. If anyone can help, that would be appreciated. Lastly, the rods are binding slightly on the crank itself also, how do I fix that issue also ??? Should I just take it to the mach. shop and have them assemble the short block for me ??? Anyone local to NW Indiana that might have some time to help out would be cool, I'll supply the beer and steaks ???

 

You need to clearance the block for a 383 with a few exeptions. I had my machine shop do it for $120 when I had the block bored, They had experence using Scat stroker kits and where rite on the money. You will need to get it clearanced or do it your self, I know a lot of people who just do it them self.

 

If the block is very clean(no oil film) it won't have to be tanked,but you will need to wash(with solvent) and blow a bunch of times to insure no shavings are left,Blow in all oil passages and clean with round wire brushes designed for this.
You can do the first throw very very slowly,disassembling the crank and everything else each time you grind on it,until you get .050 clearance,where it is hitting on the bottom of the bore.Make sure there are no shavings present when assembling each time.Then take a cover from a phone book and roll it inside the cyl and tape it after it expands to the cyl.Mark your cutout and a line on the paper that is 90* or pretty much streight up.Carefully remove your templet and cut the "U" shape you marked and tape it where it don't come apart and will stay pretty tight in the bore.Now go to the next cyl,put your 90* mark streight up mark it and grind away--just 7 more times.Cut as little as possible from bottom of bore to get the .050,because it is easy to grind into water.Use a die grinder and rotary file(1/2" in dia at least) makes for a neater cut and don't nick the bore.
There should be NO bind from the brgs when rotating the crank.There should be 1.8-2.5 thousands measured clearance( not with plasti-guage).