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Split BLMs & KR at idle...

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Old May 19, 2003 | 10:47 PM
  #1  
fireman's Avatar
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From: Phoenix AZ
Split BLMs & KR at idle...

I have been fighting this problem for a few weeks now, and its not getting better. I filled my tank with 1/2 91 octane Mobil 1 and 1/2 101 octane TRICK race fuel(unleaded), and dumped some 104 octane booster in as well.
Still about 2.5 degrees of KR at idle(about 1100 rpm). If I step on the gas and bring it up to about 1700rpm or so, the KR goes away from there on up(in neutral).
On a WOT run, it'll max at around 5 * KR.
I've gotten under the car and can't really hear anything out of the ordinary. The amount of KR is definetly related to load on the engine, if I punch it at 2000 rpm in gear, the KR goes right up to 5* and only drops a little as rpms go up. If I slowly bring up rpm I get less than 3 * all the way up.
Nothing has changed since I put the race gas in.

I don't know.

The split blms are as follows:
The left stays pretty close to 128 MOST of the time, it will dip to 121 and go up to 131 now and then.
The right on the other hand will go from 121 or so on up to 146 pretty often. The o2 sensors are both fluctuating as they should most of the time, except when its cold and at WOT.
At idle, in fuel cell 16, the left stays at 128 or very close, and the right will be at 134,146, 144, etc.
I ordered a new o2 sensor for the right just in case.

I don't know again.

My IAC counts are around 53-59 at idle.
The car seems to run alright, except idles rough and the idles flucuates as well. When the idle drops to the lowest, about 800 or so, it idles really rough and the KR goes to about 3.3*. I don't know what it is supposed to idle like with a cam, so I don't really know if its idling normal or not. I don't know anyone with knowledge of these cars except you guys.

Is this thing safe to drive? I don't know what to do next.

BTW- This engine is new and it has been running like this since I first fired it 2 months ago, I haven't been driving it for 2 months, it only has 300 miles on the new engine. The damn transmission gave up the ghost at the 100 mile mark and the opti did the same at the 295 mark.

Last edited by fireman; May 19, 2003 at 10:54 PM.
Old May 20, 2003 | 10:45 AM
  #2  
Brent94Z's Avatar
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Joined: May 1999
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From: Inverness, FL
Hey Fireman,

At your request via email, I'll COPY this to the Advanced Tech forum. Maybe the guys there can help you out. Good luck! I've read a little about this but not enough to give you a "for sure" answer Good luck!
Old May 20, 2003 | 09:42 PM
  #3  
Schurters LT1's Avatar
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From: kitchener/Ontario
You're iac count are way to high at idle( the car is up to temp?) but you need to get your iac count down to 15-20 at idle. trust me i did this with the cc 306 cam and the gm 847 cam on the stock program. the car will idle at 800 rpm!! my blm is all over the place at idle and very hight this should all clear up with a dyno tune!!!

good luck
Old May 21, 2003 | 08:59 PM
  #4  
NJLT1SS's Avatar
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From: Montville, NJ, U.S.A.
I have the same problem with my IAC count being between 55 and 60 during idle, this is after a head/cam swap, using the XE230. How do you get your IAC count down to 15 - 20? What problems can you run into with your IAC count that high?


Nick
Old May 21, 2003 | 09:31 PM
  #5  
Schurters LT1's Avatar
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From: kitchener/Ontario
To get you're iac counts down that low you have to open up the tb with the adjuster then re adjust you're tps it takes some time to do it but the car will run better and if you ever get a vac leak your count will go down to 0 and the car will run like crap . So this will be a good starting point.

Have you tryed cleaning you're maf sensor with carb spray and i would replace both o2 sensors just to be on the safe side.

Get the car tuned on a dyno !!!!!! this way it will leave out any questions on performance.
Old May 21, 2003 | 11:25 PM
  #6  
fireman's Avatar
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From: Phoenix AZ
I went to replace thr right O2 sensor and found it loose, I replaced it anyway and my KR went away. Half my problem is solved.
Now, the right BLMs are at 155-160 at idle, and the left stays around 128 MOST of the time, but will dip to 121 or so. At half or full throttle, both right and left BLMS go to 128 no problem. Its not idling very well at all at 800 rpm.
I tried to open the blades with the throttle stop screw and my idle just went up, what do you mean by adjust the TPS? You mean have the throtle blades a little open and somehow bring the idle back down? Loosen the TPS sensor and adjust or adjust in LT1 edit? What should I adjust it to? Sorry for all the questions, I want to do this ASAP.

Thanks.
Old May 22, 2003 | 06:29 PM
  #7  
Schurters LT1's Avatar
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From: kitchener/Ontario
No you don,t have to use lt1 edit. open up the blades is the same as the iac counts being high by open up the blades the tps voltage gos so the idle will but open the blades until you reach the 15-20 counts shut the car of adjust the tps voltage back down to 0,60 volts then unplug tps and plug back in and ck you my have to do this 1-2 times
Old May 23, 2003 | 08:13 PM
  #8  
bunker's Avatar
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From: North Vancouver, BC
ussually the higher the counts the closer the BLM's because the IAC is letting more air through the Idle air passaged;therefore, preventing Split BLM, you can do the TB mod or just buy a Holley TB
Old May 24, 2003 | 02:10 AM
  #9  
fireman's Avatar
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From: Phoenix AZ
How do I do this TB mod? I've heard about it, but never how to do it.
Thanks
Old May 24, 2003 | 11:35 PM
  #10  
bunker's Avatar
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From: North Vancouver, BC
http://para.noid.org/~lj/PCM%20Tutor...litBLMinfo.htm

How to do it DOn't need to on a Holley.
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