Ok I'm posting it here because this isn't a regular case of rocker noise. I my valve train is slightly louder on the passenger side then it is one the driver's side, I can't even hear the driver's side valve train, I have Comp R' lifters & I adjusted them all to 1/8'th past zero lash, then I tried 1/4 past zero lash & still nothing, I think it got slightly quiter after 1/4 turn on the passenger side but the driver's remains quite.

Now I've had this problem before with my old setup, I thought it was a lifter problem so I changed that & added a hydra rev kit & the noise remained the same, so I hunted forever & finally moved the springs sideways & noised they moved, so I took a spring off & the guides were not even there really, I baught used heads so I was kinda pissed off but atleast I thought I found the problem.

Since then, I put in the same new lifters with like 50 miles on, hydra rev kit, new Rockers, I switched from Crane Gold NSA to COMP Pro Mags NSA, clearanced the guide plates to move closer to the rocker so that the pushrod didn't hit the guide plate just in case, figured out the pushrod legth I needed & went with Comp 7.100" chromoly pushrods, & lash caps, went with brand new heads with 5 angle valve job & made sure I got bronze liners put in, went with a GM 847 cam just incase.

All this & still I'm getting the louder noise on the passenger side. I mean I've done atleast 15 cam swaps in friend's cars & atleast 5 on my cars but I keep getting this on this one car where I'm doing everything by the book 100%. I even adjust the rockers in a firing order, like when #1 intake is full open I adjust #6 intake since its fully down. Just to make sure 100% its right unlike the other method where you do 8 rockers in 1 revolution, but still getting the louder noise. It sounds like clink, clink, clink, clink, clink.

I'm almost tempted to do another cam swap to a custom cam just to have an excuse to change out the lifters again, since nothing else makes sense. My knock sensor never even goes off, my Cloyes timing chain makes the ussual stupid noise since I didn't clearance the timing cover but thats got nothing to do with it. I'm totally confused, what else can cause this?

Matt.

 

It does this with the valve cover off also? Only thing I can think of would be the rockers tapping the inside of the valve cover..

Cody

 

Mine does it to before and after rebuild,I think its the nature of the beast its frustrating when you cant eliminate it.I have built about 20 motors and this lt1 has the most valvetrain noise out of all of them Is it audible when your driving ? at idle? or more at part throttle? Mine is more at part throttle and I have learned to live with it I had two machine shop check all my clearences and they are spot on.Nothing I could do with mine,Changed everything Went from guided rockers to guideplate rockers and no diff.

 

You might try fuel injectors.If you have the stock injectors they maybe worn so much they tap.I noticed a hugh differnce changing injectors.just a thought..

 

I can tell you what worked for me; I have Comp R's and a Hydra-Rev kit too. However, I didn't adjust them because of noise, but because of an issue that was showing up on the dyno.

I've been adjusting them using the conventional methods - 8 at a time, turn the engine over, do the other 8. Then I tried the cylinder at a time using a dial indicator to find 0 lash on the rocker and thought I was golden.

This last time around I did it with the engine running. I took my old steel valve covers and cut to tops of them off. Started the engine, let it warm up and started setting the lash. I couldn't believe how far off I was - most of them were too tight, one was *way* too tight (by almost a full turn) and a couple were too loose. I can't believe how quiet the valve train is now. Obviously the car is running much better now too.

I found out an added bonus of having the LT4 composite valve covers too - they're tall enough to clear my Pro Mags and ARP locks (my steel covers didn't) and they can be removed without taking the alternator off.

 

Are you serious about being far off adjusting ? See I can't see how that can be because you can tell if your nut is far off by looking at the set screw & far far in or out it is compared to the rest of the rockers, after I was done all the set screws on the exhaust & intakes were pretty much identical, I tried getting the rocker off 1/8's of a turn & you really notice it on the set screw, so I looked them all over & they seemed fine. I'm also hitting a wall partially at 4k rpm for a split second & then at 6400rpm or so it hits a dead stop, while logging I found out that my AFGS fall off to 200 from 350 or so which to me indicates valve float or bad maff, I'll see. Can a MAF just fall off after 350cfm or so? I doubt it but I'm no expert.

As for injectors, I have 38lb MSD injectors & I already listened to them, its definetly not the injectors.

Matt.

 

Yes, I'm serious about them being off. A 1/4 - 1/2 turn too much (which is where most of mine were) is hard to see just by looking on the ARP locks since they're taller and the set screw sits down further. What makes it even more difficult is that the tops of the locks fill with oil. Besides, they will all look the same if they're all too tight or too loose.

If you think you may be getting float, then that could be an indication that they're too tight once the engine is running. I've tried setting them by various methods, including removing all the pushrods and cranking the engine over until the oil system pressurized to pump up the lifters, then doing a cylinder at a time (both with and without a DI).

I have always been a big skeptic about setting the lash on hydraulic lifters with the engine running until I ran out of options and tried it myself. It's the only way I'll do lash adjustments now. I have had a couple of my friends tell me that they've had a really hard time getting the correct lash set on Comp R lifters too.

 

yeah I guess I have no choice at this point either, can you explain how exactly I should start to adjust them & everything I should be doing to start adjustment etc... I"ll try that.

Matt.