I know this forum is not for general tech, but I feel my problem may be beyond that. I have already gone through all the general tech avenues, and now things just don't make sense. HERE is a link to the thread in LT1 Tech, so that this thread will not take up to much space here. I ask that anyone who may be able to help, to please chime in. Thanks a lot.

 

I would still guess that you have a few wires crossed. Check shoebox's page for a diagram.

 

I can possibly see leaving this here. But i found it very hard and (annoying) to try to figure out what is going on with your car as threads link to threads that link to threads that have multiple pages....

Could you rewrite you problem in this post with all up to date information and T/Sing? It would help people alot...

 

I had a similar problem with my car when I put in my new engine. It turned out to be a fuse in the black box on the driver's side of the engine compartment and it caused my car to crank and not start at all. Try checking all of your fuses before anything else. If these are fine than it could be your opti is installed wrong or the timing chain jumped. Good luck and let us know what is was when you get it fixed.

Matt

 

OK, I'll rewrite it, but it'll be kind of long.

I punched it from a light (not street racing). The tires spun , and shifted into second because I stayed on it (they normally just hook when the pavement is dry because of my wheel/tire combo). When the tires grabbed, it shifted back down into first, throwing the RPMs back up to a little over 5000. Car went, and then all of a sudden it started loosing power, and came to a stop and died. There were no noises or anything. I tried restarting it a couple of times, and it wouldn't turn over, but it would barely stumble around for about 5 seconds, and then die. It only did that the first couple restart tries though.
Now, here's what's been replaced or checked:
I purchased a new ICM, and verified it wasn't that, and put my stock one back in. I replaced the coil, the coil wire, the Opti spark, all the spark plugs, and one spark plug wire.
A few friends came over with their electrical test equipment and compression tester who have a lot of experience fixing/modifying LT1s and/or general repair. All the spark plug wires were verified installed correctly. All the plug wires were verified good, and a strong enough spark was making it to all cylinders, so the Opti is spinning. Also, when the Opti was installed, I made sure it was lined up with the key correctly, and that the Opti fit on flush without having to force it on. We went through every fuse, and disconnected all the plugs and wiring harnesses, and made sure they were working correctly. We verified the fuel pressure at a solid 45 pounds. The fuel rails were removed, and we physically verified that all the injecors are squirting. Also, the drivers side valve cover was removed, and everything appears to be moving properly. We also pulled the oil fill tube, and made sure the pass side rockers were movng too. We checked all the engine grounds were good as well. We also conducted a compression test, and that checked out as well. So, everything seems to be sending the signals that they need to to each other. The PCM is alive, because my Hypertech can talk to it.
So, everything is present. Fuel, spark, and compression. But still, the car won't start. Just in case, starter fluid was also used to try to get it to turn over before the injectors were verified to be working. All the fuses (both under the hood, andin the car) are fine.
Well , that's the story so far. If I think of more, I'll post. Thanks for leaving this post here.

EDIT: Also, the car now will just give a single big backfire when trying to start it. It doesn't fo it everytime, but a lot of the time.
Also, so couple of people are saying my timing is off, possibly due to my timing chain slipping. I thought that doesn't really happen with these engines.

 

I'm pretty sure I've seen at least one case of someone on here having the chain slip a tooth, especially if the mileage is up there...

I would think it would tend to happen with quick RPM changes too.

I've never checked/changed the belt so I don't know how involved it is, but I would definitely think about doing it!

 

You will probably have to get under your car to do this, but stick a stop for TDC in #1 and rotate gently until you are at the top of the stroke there. Now make a mark on your balancer and engine (you may want to add on a tab or something) to signal TDC. Now you can use a normal timing light (dialback so you don't have to make other marks). Check and see what your advance during starting is. It should probably be around 8-20 degrees. If you jumped a tooth on the timing chain it will be 20+ degrees off.

 

Ive always worried about spinning that pressed on crank gear on the crank snout, thats why I put a key-way in mine with the new crank. Although I've never seen it happen, its hard to believe there is nothing keeping your crank gear from spinning. If you take the timing cover off check for that. Do his timing test and see if it slipped a tooth. Usually a backfire is from timing problems.

 

All crank gears should have a keyway. The crank balancer hub does not. I've spun mine off twice

Pull off your oil filler tube and check to see if the valve train is moving when you crank it over. You may have broken the timing chain.

-Shannon

 

Well, the problem is solved, and now I'm embarrassed for posting this here. It ended up being that the Opti was somehow installed incorrectly. HERE is a link to the other post explaining everything so that I don't have to retype it again.
Thanks to everyone for their suggestions. I'll just go back to reading the posts here.

 

Yeah thats what I ment nomad, I was tired, I had the hub keyed in case I put a blower on there, Id feel much safer, did it destroy your crank snout when you spun it off?

 

OK, I guess I'll post at least one more thing. Would adding a key to the balancer pully hub cause any inbalancing issues? Or, is the weight difference so minimal that it wouldn't matter?

 

The balancer should be neutral.