Replacing valve springs *on* engine...
Replacing valve springs *on* engine...
I've got an air fitting for the spark plug hole, I put cylinder #1 at TDC, apply 100 psi and I'm getting a constant small leak past the valves. I then compress the exhaust valve spring with a shaft-mount valve spring compressor, and get a big shot of air out the exhaust hole instead of the valve staying up and the locks popping loose... what am I doing wrong? 
I'd pull the heads off the engine but I didn't want to have to remove the bases for my shaft rockers and remove the heads from an engine with only a couple dyno runs on it if I didn't have to, although it would probably make degreeing new cam a heck of a lot easier. Any ideas?
Thanks!

I'd pull the heads off the engine but I didn't want to have to remove the bases for my shaft rockers and remove the heads from an engine with only a couple dyno runs on it if I didn't have to, although it would probably make degreeing new cam a heck of a lot easier. Any ideas?
Thanks!
Re: Replacing valve springs *on* engine...
you need to break the retainers loose. I am headed that way if you would like me to stop by? I just did a valve spring change (Hot cam kit install) for a customer this week.
I will shot you a PM with my number if you are interested.
Ellis Groo
Speed Secrets
"The Secret to reliable performance!"
I will shot you a PM with my number if you are interested.
Ellis Groo
Speed Secrets
"The Secret to reliable performance!"
Re: Replacing valve springs *on* engine...
Yeah gotta break the locks loose.... I know it sounds crazy but hit the retainer (not the valve) with a dead blow to break the locks loose from the retainers... then you will compress the spring indepenant of the valve.
Bret
Bret
Re: Replacing valve springs *on* engine...
Yep, just smack em. 
I use a piece of short pvc pipe so I can spread the *smack* all around the retainer but a well aimed dead-block hit will do it too.
-Mindgame

I use a piece of short pvc pipe so I can spread the *smack* all around the retainer but a well aimed dead-block hit will do it too.
-Mindgame
Re: Replacing valve springs *on* engine...
Originally Posted by SStrokerAce
Yeah gotta break the locks loose.... I know it sounds crazy but hit the retainer (not the valve) with a dead blow to break the locks loose from the retainers... then you will compress the spring indepenant of the valve.
Bret
Bret
Re: Replacing valve springs *on* engine...
I just replaced my springs, retainers and locks.
I used a rubber mallet and hit the retainer as everyone mentioned above.
You'll hear loud pops until the locks break free. You'll hear the difference
once the retainer comes loose.
OAN: It is safe to leave the carburetor on the motor when using compressed
air? Will 100 PSI of air popping back up the intake runner ruin a power valve,
or anything (compared to back firing)?
I used a rubber mallet and hit the retainer as everyone mentioned above.
You'll hear loud pops until the locks break free. You'll hear the difference
once the retainer comes loose.
OAN: It is safe to leave the carburetor on the motor when using compressed
air? Will 100 PSI of air popping back up the intake runner ruin a power valve,
or anything (compared to back firing)?
Last edited by Zero_to_69; May 14, 2005 at 03:45 PM.
Re: Replacing valve springs *on* engine...
Thanks guys. Ellis stopped by and we discovered that the new springs don't fit over the seats on the heads, so...
So I'm heading to Sears to get a 3/8" 12-point deep socket set to get the last 3 @#*(@*% stud bolts that I can't get to with the springs on the heads. I needed some new tools anyway...
So I'm heading to Sears to get a 3/8" 12-point deep socket set to get the last 3 @#*(@*% stud bolts that I can't get to with the springs on the heads. I needed some new tools anyway...
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