Reading/Fixing My RR To Valve Stem Contact Patern (FootPrint) [Pics]
#1
Reading/Fixing My RR To Valve Stem Contact Patern (FootPrint) [Pics]
I am using LS7 lifters, CC Chromoly Stock Legnth PushRods, CC 1.6 7/16" NSA RR, My block was decked to put the slugs .010" in the hole (Cut .017" - .018") and I am using a .026" head gasket.
first I took apart a lifter and shimmed it to make it almost a solid lifter (Still a tiny bit of play in there). Then I asembled it. Tightned the lock down until the lifter was fully colased onto my shims (small ammount). then rotated the enigne a few times.
Am I doing this correct?..
Here is what I come up with:
ftp://test1:test11@web171.ixwebhosti...20(Custom).jpg
ftp://test1:test11@web171.ixwebhosti...20(Custom).jpg
So, these look prety discusting do they. I can understand why its not centered (pushrods not right) but I dont get why its ofset to one side. there is almost on contact on the left and all kinds on the right.. How do I fix this?
first I took apart a lifter and shimmed it to make it almost a solid lifter (Still a tiny bit of play in there). Then I asembled it. Tightned the lock down until the lifter was fully colased onto my shims (small ammount). then rotated the enigne a few times.
Am I doing this correct?..
Here is what I come up with:
ftp://test1:test11@web171.ixwebhosti...20(Custom).jpg
ftp://test1:test11@web171.ixwebhosti...20(Custom).jpg
So, these look prety discusting do they. I can understand why its not centered (pushrods not right) but I dont get why its ofset to one side. there is almost on contact on the left and all kinds on the right.. How do I fix this?
#2
your pushrods are a little too long.
get checking springs to put on that cyl. and an adjustable pushrod.
the side to side is not that bad from what I see, but isky adjustable guideplates are the only way to fix that. they are a huge PITA to set up.
What rocker arm studs are those? if they are not ARP pro ones I woul upgrade right away.
get checking springs to put on that cyl. and an adjustable pushrod.
the side to side is not that bad from what I see, but isky adjustable guideplates are the only way to fix that. they are a huge PITA to set up.
What rocker arm studs are those? if they are not ARP pro ones I woul upgrade right away.
#3
REALLY, side to side is not that bad?..
I will get an adjustable pushrod, but I cant use it on the heavy springs?.. shyt. I didnt want to have to buy a test spring..
So just try to get the contact patern close to center then stop worryin about it?..
Thanks
is my method ok? I did need to make a solid lifter right?.. to get an acurate mesurament.. Is it ok that its not complety solid. there is still a tiny bit I can puish down.. or should I try to get it solid?.. I could pack a few peices of paper in there to take care of the little bit left..
I will get an adjustable pushrod, but I cant use it on the heavy springs?.. shyt. I didnt want to have to buy a test spring..
So just try to get the contact patern close to center then stop worryin about it?..
Thanks
is my method ok? I did need to make a solid lifter right?.. to get an acurate mesurament.. Is it ok that its not complety solid. there is still a tiny bit I can puish down.. or should I try to get it solid?.. I could pack a few peices of paper in there to take care of the little bit left..
#4
checking springs are only $5. they are soft and you will not need to make the lifter solid.
the checking pushrod will bend if you try and use it on regular springs.
you can worry about the side to side later, thats in the guide plates. No sense in messing with that until you get the right pushrod.
the checking pushrod will bend if you try and use it on regular springs.
you can worry about the side to side later, thats in the guide plates. No sense in messing with that until you get the right pushrod.
#5
I think what he means to say is that the roller tip on the rocker is not in plane (parallel) to the valve tip. Seems like its making contact on one side much heavier than the other. The root cause of that will probably be the cheap studs that are likely bent.
Another thing that you can do to correct alignment is to back off the rocker studs and shift the guide plate around while you're tightening it up. This will give you a decent amount of adjustment if both of them or off or one is slightly off, letting you split the difference.
Another thing that you can do to correct alignment is to back off the rocker studs and shift the guide plate around while you're tightening it up. This will give you a decent amount of adjustment if both of them or off or one is slightly off, letting you split the difference.
#7
Now this is more like it:
its definatly improving. I made a adjustable pushrod and to make it look like this I had to make it alot shorter than stock. To get this patern I had to use a 6.950" pushrod.. thats .250" shorter.. that seems like to much..
the way I am measuring is with a dial indicator on a magnetic base. I then put it on a piece of metal and welded a washer the side of the pushrod on a spot on the metal. I then made it so the dial indicator was vertical of the washer and i put the stock size pushrod in and zero'd my dial indicator. I then put the adjustable pushrod in the same place (making sure not to bump the stand at all, then I compared the diffrence. I realise that over legnth is not how all pushrods are measured. but I am using CC chromoly rods that say 7.200 on them. so I figure - who cares how they take there measurment. If i subtract what I need form that and order comp pushrods It will be correct since I measured using comp pushrods. get it?..
so, I am going to check a few more and remeasure a few times.. but It look like I might be ordering some 6.950's tonight.
forgot to consider that my lifter is colapsing .036".. so does that mean I need to subtract ANOTHER .036"??..
its definatly improving. I made a adjustable pushrod and to make it look like this I had to make it alot shorter than stock. To get this patern I had to use a 6.950" pushrod.. thats .250" shorter.. that seems like to much..
the way I am measuring is with a dial indicator on a magnetic base. I then put it on a piece of metal and welded a washer the side of the pushrod on a spot on the metal. I then made it so the dial indicator was vertical of the washer and i put the stock size pushrod in and zero'd my dial indicator. I then put the adjustable pushrod in the same place (making sure not to bump the stand at all, then I compared the diffrence. I realise that over legnth is not how all pushrods are measured. but I am using CC chromoly rods that say 7.200 on them. so I figure - who cares how they take there measurment. If i subtract what I need form that and order comp pushrods It will be correct since I measured using comp pushrods. get it?..
so, I am going to check a few more and remeasure a few times.. but It look like I might be ordering some 6.950's tonight.
forgot to consider that my lifter is colapsing .036".. so does that mean I need to subtract ANOTHER .036"??..
Last edited by ENRKyle20; 07-21-2008 at 05:06 PM.
#8
Well, you definitely got it on the center. On my car, with the same stuff you are using, a 6.950 wouldn't work. The bottom of the rocker was hitting the big part on the stud.
Most people on here would sh*t if they saw how close mine are to the edge with the 7.200s!
2,000 miles and not the hint of a problem
Most people on here would sh*t if they saw how close mine are to the edge with the 7.200s!
2,000 miles and not the hint of a problem
#9
As a shot in the dark to get me started with finding the right valve length I usually just use the adjustable pushrod to set the center of the rocker trunion half the valve lift down from the valve tip. Usually it results in a pattern thats super narrow and just slightly offset toward the exhaust with most rockers. Crowers usually check out the best all around for me but they are definitely nice and definitely $$$ .
As a side note, all rocker arms are not created equal. Actual ratio will vary from advertized with geometry and manufacturer. Have to check them on the engine you plan to run them on to know for sure. I know a guy who killed a big block by swapping rockers and just trusting the advertised ratio.
Not sure how its really relevant to the thread, but I thought i'd toss it out there.
As a side note, all rocker arms are not created equal. Actual ratio will vary from advertized with geometry and manufacturer. Have to check them on the engine you plan to run them on to know for sure. I know a guy who killed a big block by swapping rockers and just trusting the advertised ratio.
Not sure how its really relevant to the thread, but I thought i'd toss it out there.
#10
That's not very good pattern. Like said above, the pattern should be narrow and slightly off center towards the exhaust. The sweep of the rocker is way too much and I think it could cause unusual guide wear.
Think of the rocker like a hammer and the valve tip a nail. You don't want to be hitting the nail all over the head cause it won't go in straight and will probably bend or something. Same thing for a valve, you don't want to be pushing on it all over the tip because the side loads that creates will wear out your guides.
If you go taller your sweep will get shorter and closer to the exhaust. There was a great thread recently about determining pushrod length. Search for it.
Think of the rocker like a hammer and the valve tip a nail. You don't want to be hitting the nail all over the head cause it won't go in straight and will probably bend or something. Same thing for a valve, you don't want to be pushing on it all over the tip because the side loads that creates will wear out your guides.
If you go taller your sweep will get shorter and closer to the exhaust. There was a great thread recently about determining pushrod length. Search for it.
#11
so. Should be looking for a thinner sweep or trying to center it, or a good mix of the 2?.. I made my rod a little longer to bring it close to the exhaust and it may have gotten a tiny bit smaller, but not by much.
#12
Seems like it's half and half on the people who put it in the center and small sweep.
Mine are about .080-.090 from the edge of the valve and no problems yet.
#13
heres somehting that throwing me off. Do i compensate for the preload?.. or do I asume that the lifter will be FULLY extended all the time (it wont).. so should I consider the .036" that the rocker compressed (cuz its not shimmed tight) the preload setting and just order the legnth pushrods my checker tells me is good?.. ahhh?
#14
I wouldn't worry about the preload too much as much as getting a good pattern. When you set everything up where is the rocker contacting the valve? In the center and your sweep is that wide or is it offset one side or the other? You're defintely getting closer, what length are you at now?