I've been looking at radiators receintly for my twin turbo project. I'm mounting the radiator in the bed so I can use the front of the truck for a big honkin intercooler. Anyways, I was wondering if anyone has tried any of Summit's aluminum radiators? I've been looking at this one:

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...4923432+303781

and I was wondering if it is enough to cool a 700 horse small block.

 

i almost bought one of those for a project of mine. i don't see why they wouldn't if you had enough airflow.

i don't know if you have a manual or automatic, but those don't have transmission cooler provisions. of course you can run an auxillary cooler if you do have an auto. personally, i'd run 2 if i was making 700 horsepower. (or atleast a really big one)

 

Actually I have no transmission at the moment. I'm still gathering parts for this project. I will probably end up using a TH400, but I'm still not sure yet. I was thinking I could run a transmission cooler either under the truck, or in the bed with its own fan. The fan setup I'm looking at for the radiator is supposed to move 4000 CFM at full blast.

 

That's basically the same as the Griffin. Should work fine. I've got a Griffin that I never installed, brand new in the box, I'd sell for $150 plus shipping. Here's the one I've got...

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...ch&Ntt=griffin

 

my friends dad has a th400 with a coan 3500 stall and a transbrake that he just had rebuilt.

has maybe 4 or 5 , low 11 second passes in a 3000 pound car. before it was rebuilt it had 3 seasons on it.
he's moving up to a powerglide.

he wants 500 dollars for it.

 

How about mounting it near the rear of the bed, use a hard tonneau cover with an opening centered about 2 feet from the tailgate and duct the air to the tilted back radiator(s), then duct the outlet down thru the bottom of the bed just in front of the rear bumper or rolled pan?

On my S-10 that inlet position is just about where air over the top hits the tonneau. It shouldn't take much to assure that the outlet area is a low pressure area; maybe a small air dam just in front of the outlet.

The inlet area can (should) be considerably smaller than the radiator(s), as you want the air to expand into a larger volume duct leading to the rads so it slows down and the pressure goes up to force it thru the radiators.

You could actually mount the rads flat, recessed into the bottom of the bed, have the inlet duct attached to the tonneau and still have the ability to "haul" stuff.

 

I was just going to mount it in the front of the bed like these.

http://community.webshots.com/album/189171642eqRdFs

 

Why? Just because someone else did it doesn't make it a good idea.

Airflow to the rads mounted there sucks...the inlet is in a low pressure area behind the cab. That really sucks!

The heat is close to the cab...

It doesn't add much weight to the rear wheels, and traction should be one of your big problems. Rad behind the rear wheels removes weight from the front wheels and adds more to the rears than the rad installation weighs. What's not to like?

How about this? Mount the INTERCOOLERS in the bed instead of the radiator.
Not a new idea. It's even been done NA. Yeah, intercoolers using nitrous to cool the charge but never getting into the engine. Nitrous was sprayed over the outside of the air-air IC's. It reduced the inlet temp to about 60F at Bonneville on a 100+F day. About 13 or 14 years ago on a GMC S-15 which went 200+ with a stroked 5.0 L 4.3 V6 with about 560 fwhp, and all NA.

Think out of the box...(pun intended).

 

If you plan on street driving much (with extended idling), the mechanical water pumps don't really flow decently until over 1000 rpms (check the Stewart website for data). Adding the extra routing may increase the backpressure and make it worse (Ask Pantera folks). I've got the IC mounted in front of a CAS low fin density radiator, along with a TruCool oil cooler, and cooling is great for street and road course track days. Don't forget the extra weight of the water (62 lbs/ft^3) and all the hoses/fittings. The extra hose and connections also gives more failure points, but drag/street probably isn't as hard on turbo cars as road racing... For a counter-argument (to me), its roughly the same as mounting the engine back 5". Just giving ya something to consider.