On a LT1 383 stroker with these rods, do I have to use an aftermarket oil pan or will the stock pan work?

Thanks,

Brent M.

 

You'll likely have to modify the pan rails to clear the rod bolts.

Regardless, I view this as a bad idea, due to the lack of sump depth along the front of the pan - it's just asking for windage problems. A deeper aftermarket pan is a very wise investment, based upon my experiences.

 

I just built a 383 with H-beam rods and I had to go with a canton pan. The rod bolts we're hitting the stock pan even after we clearanced it.

 

i am using the stock pan with those rods. just need to punch it out in some areas.

 

THe Eagle H- Beam 3D rods are supposed to be stroker clearanced when yo buy them. DId you get the 3D rods?

 

Hummm...thats odd mine cleared fine. Did take me a while to figure out that I had to do some clearancing on the side of the pan where it bolted to the block in on place.

 

I am using the stock pan with mine. Just had to make the right dents in the right areas.

 

Are you still using the windage try? Im building one, and I put washers between it to space it down. The bolts were hitting it also.

 

You can buy a melling windage tray and clearance the sides of it where the rods are hitting. I had to take out 3 small sections on each side of the tray to make it work with a stock oil pan.

 

The "clearanced" rods are slimmed-down where the big end meets the beam of the rod, but this only provides better clearance to the cam and the lower parts of the cylinder wall - it doesn't affect the clearance of the rod to the oil pan rail.

 

Just finished a 385 and went with the stock pan. I have a Callies Dragonslayer Crank & Eagle 4340 H-Beam rods with ARP bolts. I had to massage the pan with a BFH for #1 & #2 rods hitting the bottom and Pound out the side a little where #7 was hitting. No problems after that and I'm using a windage tray with Melling HV pump.

 

No problems here. I used 6" eagle h-beams and a Canton pan. I didn't have any clearance problems whatsoever.