Motor Building questions.......long
Well I snapped the end off of my Callies Crank this weekend (see post in Forced Induction section) and now I'm wondering what to do with the motor that is currently in the car.
First off a lot of this is going to depend on what Callies does about sending me a crank if I have to pay for a new one or not.
Second the car is going to be built for street use, and road racing club events, nothing like T1 Series but just open track events and maybe a few autocrosses just to have some fun sliding around a parking lot.
1. (Free new crank) Just put a new crank in the car, freshen up the motor and get it dailed in (never got it completely tuned before the crank snapped) And go with the idea of building a 600rwhp blown 383 LT1 and road racing it. I know this is going to be pretty hard to do but I figured it would be different. I have a lot of questions as to how to get the crank and the blower for that matter to hold up on a lot of upshifting and downshifting. My questions as to this so far are... What about doing a cogged belt drive system to take some side loading off of the crankshaft? Will this cause undo stresses in the belt on shifting due to the crank and blower changing speeds rapidly? Even with light weight pistons, rods, crank, and clutch the car still has problems reving quickly like most road cars do, is this just a trait of high boost/low comp. motors? The only real main problems I had with this was tuning and oil temps getting hot just driving around with it, and the slow responce time.
2. Get a 396 crank, and swap out to a solid roller cam, lifters, shaft mount Jessel rockers, and go up to a 12:1 compression piston. With this I have a lot of questions. Is there anything that has to be done with the bigger crank? What about its effects on side loading? Is there going to be any benefits/drawbacks with going to a larger stroke crank? Is there anything I should know about going with a 396 crank. What all has to be done to go to a solid roller besides the cam, lifters and springs? I have seen a lot of things with the return restrictors in the lifter valley, what all do they do? What needs to be done to the oiling system for a solid roller cam, anything special? Bigger pump? Dry sump...ect? What about doing roller cam bearings? Can the LT1 block take them? Is it worth it on a solid roller cam? When I did the heads I had the chambers left almost stock and ran a big dished piston so I still have close to 58cc chambers. If I was going with a really high lift cam (like over .600 lift) should I do anything different with the head chamber design? Also it only has 2.0/1.58 valves in it. Should I think about changeing these out as well? Will the Cloyes LT1 timing set take the forces of a solid roller valve train or does this put any more load on the timing set? What is the life of a solid roller setup? Will it last longer than 10k miles on street and on track before having to be freshened up with new springs?
I guess I'm just stuck with what to do with the car and need some suggestions. I really don't know that much about solid roller motors. Am I nuts for trying to get a blown motor to work on a road race track?
Ideas? Pros/Cons??
------------------
1994 1LE Z28 T56
383, 6.0" rods
GTP Stage III heads
4:10's
Hooker LT's
blah blah blah.....ATI D1 15psi Intercooled
http://members6.clubphoto.com/anthon.../guest-1.phtml
[This message has been edited by 1LEThumper (edited September 03, 2002).]
First off a lot of this is going to depend on what Callies does about sending me a crank if I have to pay for a new one or not.
Second the car is going to be built for street use, and road racing club events, nothing like T1 Series but just open track events and maybe a few autocrosses just to have some fun sliding around a parking lot.
1. (Free new crank) Just put a new crank in the car, freshen up the motor and get it dailed in (never got it completely tuned before the crank snapped) And go with the idea of building a 600rwhp blown 383 LT1 and road racing it. I know this is going to be pretty hard to do but I figured it would be different. I have a lot of questions as to how to get the crank and the blower for that matter to hold up on a lot of upshifting and downshifting. My questions as to this so far are... What about doing a cogged belt drive system to take some side loading off of the crankshaft? Will this cause undo stresses in the belt on shifting due to the crank and blower changing speeds rapidly? Even with light weight pistons, rods, crank, and clutch the car still has problems reving quickly like most road cars do, is this just a trait of high boost/low comp. motors? The only real main problems I had with this was tuning and oil temps getting hot just driving around with it, and the slow responce time.
2. Get a 396 crank, and swap out to a solid roller cam, lifters, shaft mount Jessel rockers, and go up to a 12:1 compression piston. With this I have a lot of questions. Is there anything that has to be done with the bigger crank? What about its effects on side loading? Is there going to be any benefits/drawbacks with going to a larger stroke crank? Is there anything I should know about going with a 396 crank. What all has to be done to go to a solid roller besides the cam, lifters and springs? I have seen a lot of things with the return restrictors in the lifter valley, what all do they do? What needs to be done to the oiling system for a solid roller cam, anything special? Bigger pump? Dry sump...ect? What about doing roller cam bearings? Can the LT1 block take them? Is it worth it on a solid roller cam? When I did the heads I had the chambers left almost stock and ran a big dished piston so I still have close to 58cc chambers. If I was going with a really high lift cam (like over .600 lift) should I do anything different with the head chamber design? Also it only has 2.0/1.58 valves in it. Should I think about changeing these out as well? Will the Cloyes LT1 timing set take the forces of a solid roller valve train or does this put any more load on the timing set? What is the life of a solid roller setup? Will it last longer than 10k miles on street and on track before having to be freshened up with new springs?
I guess I'm just stuck with what to do with the car and need some suggestions. I really don't know that much about solid roller motors. Am I nuts for trying to get a blown motor to work on a road race track?
Ideas? Pros/Cons??
------------------
1994 1LE Z28 T56
383, 6.0" rods
GTP Stage III heads
4:10's
Hooker LT's
blah blah blah.....ATI D1 15psi Intercooled
http://members6.clubphoto.com/anthon.../guest-1.phtml
[This message has been edited by 1LEThumper (edited September 03, 2002).]
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dbusch22
Forced Induction
6
Oct 31, 2016 11:09 AM
Henson071
Parts For Sale
6
May 4, 2015 12:23 PM



