How many of you guys still use the stock starter on the stroker high compression engines built in this forum. I have never heard of having to buy a aftermarket "race" type mini starter. The factory starter has gear reduction, does the factory ecm reduce timing on startup to help it?


David

 

He's talking 12.5 to 13 to 1 static.

 

I don't. When I did my motor, I just replaced the stocker with an LT4 unit. 12:1 compression and steel street twin, and it turns the motor over without a problem. Never thought about doing an aftermarket because the LT4 is cheap and it is a few pounds lighter than stock anyway, not to mention a bit smaller.

 

I'm using a Tilton xlt starter... weighs ~7lbs.

I went with the Tilton for the extra clearance, which I'm sure made things a little easier for my header builder.

The cranking pressure is the biggie, not necessarily the static comp. I'm thinking the stocker is probably more than adequate for a max effort street build.

-Mindgame

 

As you know this is a step above a
"street" build and will have the air on it. Cranking a heat soaked 240#CP (247 theo. CP in EAP)engine is a pretty big Job.Don't think it will be that high maybe 210#.If it was a trailer queen I wouldn't have a problem with the stock starter.
What ya think.

 

Does the LT4 starter have any more power than a stock LT1 starter, and If the starter I have is for a 6 speed car...will it work on an automatic? MG did you NEED the starter or did you buy it for clearance? A gear reduction starter whether stock or aftermarket is pretty much gonna have the same power capability given a good battery and cables..or so I would think. Or is it enough power difference to justify popping for an aftermarket starter?


David

 

SCR 12.5:1. LT4 starter here. Car starts faster/crispier than the stock motor. Battery is still in the stock location.

Ryan

 

Slightly different but my 355 SBC in my camaro was 13.5:1 SCR and the cheap-o Murrays starter worked great.

MSD has a unit, and it is a function of the Digital 6 Plus that will retard timing at start up. Makes it much easier on the starter.

 

Two reasons I'd use the Tilton (similar) over the LT4 starter:

1) Need the extra clearance.... big tube headers, custom headers, etc...

2) Have some money to burn

Which category do "ya" fall under.

Don't know the price on the LT4 starter but the Tilton is just the other side of $250.

-Mindgame

 

MG, Well ya know what Pops and I are doing, it will be street driven. He is worried if I shut it down(to get fuel or whatever) it will heat soak and have a problem starting. I have a red top Optima for it, and a brand new LT1 starter.

Anyone else have any input(experience) with this on a stroker high(er) compression LT1?


David

 

Well, heat is always a concern for starters. You can help the starter out by doing a few things....

1) Run coated headers
2) Use a starter shield or reflective starter wrap/blanket

What I'd do is this... I'd run the starter you have and put a shield or blanket around it. If that doesn't work, then you go buy another hi-tq starter and transfer the blanket/shield over to it.

Nothing really lost there except a little of your time. Starters are quick and easy though.

My 2 cents.

-Mindgame

 

Well it ain't the money one.

Just had a chance to get a Tilton type starter( name brand but forgot the name) for cheap that hasn't been used much and eliminate the future problems.Ya know "do it once" and be done.$50.00 is the price.

 

My wife broke my stock starter when the car was stock. I replaced it with a heavy duty Tilton. The stock starter looked pretty weak, structual strength wise **** fu pot metal . 1995 model year. It was common for the starters to break on stock motors,it always cranked fine though. My header forced me to replace my heavy duty Tilton with a XLT.

 

Anyone got a quick PN for the LT4 starter?

 

LT4 starter p/n# 10455709 $145-$160 From what I've seen.

FFB: I'd be surprised if you had a problem. A good sales angle that plenty of aftermarket companies don't utilize enough is a simple psychological approach. "Are you sure your current part is enough? Ours will definitely do the job, and do it better, but will yours?" After thinking about it enough we car guys most always (assuming funds are adequate) suck it up and talk ourselves into the purchase. 1 point for the marketer.

Ryan
Mktg major