WS6T3RROR

There is a port down on the pass side toward the rear to check line pressure. It would be just a couple inches from the rear corner of the pan. Just any hydraulic gauge would work, ask around the track or go to a tranny shop see if you can borrow one.

mdacton

I have one, ATI said to look for 165-170 psi.




The map is located in an intake port in the plenum under the TB.






I put the cam back in exactly like it was. ATI said this 8" is a real tight converter and if my timing was off I could turn rmp all day long and not go anywhere b/c no power but there is stil too much rpm so 1 check the line pressure and 2 check the ignition timing, if it was fuel it would be very obvious

WS6T3RROR

Woops, guess I was having a brain fart on the line pressure. Too much time in 4l60e's lately. Look for 175 or so as a max in D, 230-270 in reverse as a max and 170-200 in park. I dont usually check reverse because I dont care about it

Minimums should be 70-90 or so in drive, little higher for manual first.

If you have a full manual revers or forward pattern or a trans brake pattern just look for 150-170 max.

mdacton

I can use a regular oil pressure checker right?

I have a snap-on set 0-300....

mdacton

get it all back together, prime it, try to fire it up NO FIRE

check coil etc. and swapped b/c its easy to swap and I keep a spare module/coil/mount in the trailer. So after that it looks like the distributor is not good.

So how about just going to this if it is bad?

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

just eliminate the factory one. Its a pita anyway....

WS6T3RROR

I dont know enough about the dfi to give you a suggestion on what to do with the dist. May not be a bad idea to give accel a call about that? Let us know what you find out when you get it running again.

Bad news is its going to cost you money. Good news is, whatever was holding you back has finally just completely died.

mdacton

Well I have swapped in a dual sync distributor. huge PITA.

an opti block-off

made the wires soldered everything etc.

I have plenty of fire...but not starting. I'm fed up with it, If I don't figure it out friday or sat. all of it is coming off. I will put a carb on it and run it until I finish something else.

I don't even want the car anymore.....wish I had kept my ezstreet 3rd gen

WS6T3RROR

Ah come on thats girly talk, don't quit on it.

You verified spark.. how about fuel now. Since you havent got it to fire have you tried advancing and retarding the distributor while somebody cranks it. All the fire in the world is no good if its at the wrong time or retarded a bit too far.

Does it do anything at all besides crank over? sputter? anything? I'm sure its not your first day but you're positive you have it installed with #1 at tdc on the compression stroke?

If you're sure of all that a easy test for fuel is to shoot some carb cleaner etc into the tb and then try to fire it.

mdacton

It fires, thought it was going to start but wont.

Something in the distributor.....it has 2 LED inside it. you put it on #1 tdc then turn it til the LED's go off.....then the rotor will move so you can get it to tdc. Its a huge pita to get to it.

IHI

Smaartest thing you've said thus far I have too many gadget geek freinds with all this FI bullsheeot and i've never seen them make too many passes back to back where they run good, they're always fighting this or that, taking them to shops for dyno tuning, then if the sun does'nt shine the next day, the car runs like crap and away they go again LOL!! Oh well, fun for me to give them ****. Good concept, lottsa possiblities with a properly tuned system, only problem is nobody within miles of here does that kind of thing so only the guys that can trave out of state and have the time to constantly fight it do it, the rest of us just go.

mdacton

I have a big *** pile of wires and i juyst am not happy with the whole system at all. So here I am about 5 grand later after messing with all this....... POS

I don't give a damn if it runs good or not, I'm a bracket racer without a running car of my own..........I'm going to get a carb. The only reason I haven't is b/c I have so much money in the dfi **** allready......I'm tired of having to mess with it. And the car is weak anyway. I want a big motor

WS6T3RROR

If you're not good with efi i'm not sure why you would have even considered it anyway. It has a very steep learning curve and is not at all forgiving. What I would do is walk away from the whole works for a day or two. Make a list of things you took off or adjusted, go over all the sensors and wiring harness. Something changed when you tore it down. Look at the data your efi is giving you, and give the readings from the sensors a sanity check.

If you still cant get it after that, then maybe it is time to either have another set of eyes check it out, and as a last resort go to a carb. Just go over everything with a fine tooth comb.

mdacton

I have had a few people look at it, I'm not so sure its not a bad PCM or something. The opti deffinatly dies. I checked it several times and never got it to work again. I'm getting fire now and I locked it out at 20*.....its good with a timing light dead on. Look at it again later. I'm not happy at all right now......after I overnighted all this stuff and dropped enough money to buy some serious parts I know I could have made work. I feel like a huge dumbass now..... time to fold em

WS6T3RROR

Shoot some carb cleaner down the tb or pour a little gas in it. If it fires you know where to look! Check your fuses and the idle air temp sensor out and engine coolant temp and make sure they're sane. Make sure your fuel pump is coming on and you have good pressure. Might even try varying the throttle while cranking to see if you can get it to catch. Check your plugs too and make sure you're actually getting some fuel, could also be that its flooded. May also be that it just needs a little more enrichment and air to start now.

I know how you feel, I battled an edelbrock efi that had a bad dist problem and the ecu itself had trouble overheating as well ran like a total dog after it got hot. They looked it over on thier test rig but not a live engine and found nothing. Got tired of messin with it they took it back, car has a 6 pack and msd ignition on it now and runs like a champ. So I have been where you are before, but it wasnt my car I was just doing the work on it.

mdacton

So I only get spark for the first second or so then it throws a code and cuts ignition. says the trigger wire going to the MSD box is over .25 amps. so it shuts off ignition.....

Call MSD they say its not in the box but the wire has no shorts or anything, I checked it all the way to where it goes in the box and its all good. Possibly a bad box? Everything is hooked up like it should be and I have checked the sync of the rotor several times...its all good.

Only thing I can thing of is the box is bad.....could have been the issue all along? But I was not getting any signal out of the opti before.....so maybe a bad box burned up the opti drawing too many amps?

Any thoughts.....I'm ****ing clueless, If I had just a little more cash I would drop a 540 in it ready to go, just need headers. But I spoent all my money on this POS