This problem is related to my other post on block clearance. I have been told by reputable engine builer in my area that an LT1 block is only safe below 700 hp even after installing splayed caps and hardware. Am wondering if filling block to the bottom of water jacket on a street car is an option. Is there any other material other than concrete (epoxy) that anyone has used. Would be nice to have a solution till some builds a aftermarket block (called them all nothing in works).

John Carpico

 

HardBlock works great

should use the "MAXIMUM" amount of water ratio suggested
it works better that way

make sure all main caps are in place and TORQUE'd

make sure you have one of your cylinder heads w/headgasket torqued in place on other bank

make sure block is perfectly LEVEL in both planes

have all head bolts or studs threads coated with grease
so HardBolock if by accident splashes onto bolt threads you still can easily unscrew out of block

have large funnel that tightly fits one of block holes
then pour carefully but quickly..then use welding tig 1/8 rods to poke HardBlock into all locations .....then quickly torque that head on that side with grease on bolts

let dry to 24 + hours before undoing heads and starting on the otherside

 

I have no block fill in my motor,bearings all look good .25+ passes at 9.5 or better has run 159 in the 1/4 so it is around 1100fwhp.

 

On a street car that sees regular use what would max HP before problems. How is the block in your 9 sec car prepped. Have you ever had a long term high HP block because I have seen blocks with less power than yours cracked at motor mount.

John Carpico

 

this isn't LT1 or even small block related, but...

my .060 over 455 pontiac block (long rod, 474 ci eagle stroker) is filled halfway up the water jackets with what my machinist called "bottom fill". i'm sure that's not the name of it, but it only added 8 lbs. to the weight of the block. all i'm doing to compensate is driving the water pump 30% faster than before the block was filled.

 

I've had good luck using this block filler from Race Engineering:

http://www.raceeng.com/ShowSuppliers...t=V8&subcat=BF

And after I pour the filler I give the outside of the block a good workout w/ a rubber mallet to help the filler to "seat." Some guys use an air hammer, but I just play the drum solo from "In-A-Gadda-Da-Vida." Works for me.

And as to the comment that an LT1 block is only good below 700
HP...hmmm, I think quite a few people here have proved that theory somewhat invalid.

 

Id have to disagree with the 700hp comment. No block is good to that amount of HP if the machinework is not done properly. Do the machinwork perfectly on an LT1 block and it wont have a problem. IMO.

Seen plenty of 1000hp LT1s, not to mention Baxters 1125hp convertible, surprised Fred didnt jump in here and mention that car.

 

"In The Garden Of Eden."

 

Thanks for input guys, I guess I don't have to call the concrete truck.

John Carpico

 

You got it! Then after I play the drum solo I smoke some...
heh, heh, heh.

 

You crack me up, why not Bonham's drum solo in "Moby Dick"

Bret

 

Bonzo was too strong of a basher. I tried "Moby Dick" once, and I knocked the block off the stand.

 

Just as long as it doesn't land on your foot!

Might try a smaller hammer too!