I come to the serious thinkers with problems I ran into during my drivetrain buildup. My truck is powered by a Camaro 3800 v6 and I chose to use a Toyota r150F 5 speed transmission out of a 4Runner. Connecting the two is a bellhousing from a 99 Dodge Dakota 2.5L as it has the 60 degree pattern on the engine side and the Aisin transmisison pattern on the other.

My input shaft is a bit too short when mocked up, my 4Runner clutch disc is about .5" away from my camaro flywheel.

Now I have gathered many opinons about how to remedy this problem and I wanted to ask for opinions of others.

Clutch mechanism is pretty much all set as I am using an air cylinder modified for hydraulic use and all the dakota internals. A 4runner clutch disc fits neatly inside the camaro pressure plate. I have a rod of oil impregnated brass to get machined for a custom pilot bearing.

Option 1 is having a custom flywheel made based off the stock unit that is .5" thicker. This is a very safe solution but probably megabucks.

Option 2 is milling. Having a machine shop mill the bellhousing by .25" on both ends to bring the trans in closer to the engine. Some of my friends are weary of this option as it will reduce the bell flange thickness from .5" to .25" and the bell is cast aluminum. I understand it will probably be 2x the cost to have it milled on both sides versus one. I am also concerned at how "true" the finished piece will be. There is even an option about milling the front half of the transmission flange as I could then split my .5" over three surfaces. more money though...

Option 3 is sourcing the other Aisin-Seiki input shafts that will swap into this trans. The AX15 frmo a Jeep has a bit longer input, as dows the AR5 from an Isuzu. This option would make it necessary to source another clutch disc.

Option 4 is a flywheel spacer machined to .5" but I have been instructed I could affect the engine balance by adding more metal there. I am not concerned since I am using a junkyard flywheel anyway. The other concern with this option is starter engagement problems. Maybe another starter would be necessary.

Option 5 was another friend's idea was going to a shop that rebuilds clutch discs and have them build one with more hub offset to work in my application. I wouldn't have any clue where one such company existed, if they even do.

I am looking for a cheap and safe solution that doesn't have to be ready tomorrow. Anyone have an opinion on this or need pics of any particular area? You can read about my buildup in my sig line.

Thanks
Chris

 

How is it that the clutch disc is .5 away from the flywheel? The disc and pressure plate are mounted to the flywheel!! Perhaps your putting the disc at the pilot bearing end of the splines and bolting the tranny up... I guess you could also have a .5 inch thick plate welded to the front of the flywheel too. Allthough I have never heard of that done. If you go with a .5 spacer between the crank and flywheel the only way you will likely get a starter to fit is....If the ring gear is on the clutch side of the flywheel you could get the crank side machined to accept the ring gear hence moving the ring gear back. Other than that I dont know! Just HOW extended of a pilot bushing are you going to need? Too far and that brass wont hold up long.. Whats the dia of the flywheel and is it the same crank pattern as the 86 up small chevy. The only reason I bring this up is the LT1 flywheel IS thicker! Just throwin out Ideas. I dont know much about that engine or tranny.

 

On second thought....Why not run the original bellhousing and find/have made an adapter for between the block and bell! Thats likely going to be the cheapest and easiest way... Someone may allready have one made. Theres TONS of conversion adapter plates out there!

 

I took my measurements without the pressure plate attached for mockup. Pilot bushing will need to be 2" long, with 1" sticking out of crank.

Here's the flywheel pattern for the camaro 3800. Does any other GM engine use this flywheel pattern?



EDIT, a google search turned up the LT1 flywheel as being 6 bolt vesrus the 3800's 8 bolt.

 

Make an adaptor to fit between the crank and flywheel. Make it so it will hold a pilot bushing and use longer bolth of Supertanium quality(better than grade 8)

 

1racerdude ...If thats done you will have to come up with a way to get the starter back on the ring gear.

CPOM: Too bad on the flywheel. Whats the dia of the pilot.. I ask because with that much sticking out you may want to install the pilot in a steel sleeve then into the crank.. They DO get some side loading allthough the distance issue is more important.. Im guessing if the pilot will be that long the tip of the input wont overlap into the end of the crank at all!

 

Make an adaptor for the starter too or adapt the ring gear which shouldn't be hard.

 

Looking at the pics again and I have an idea. .5 spacer between the crank and fly to get your distance(allready disscussed). Then get a steel ring made up to bolt or weld on the engine side of the flywheel to move the ring gear back onto to get your original ring gear position. I personally think bolt on using existing holes so you can run standard unmodded parts! I allways like to use as many off the shelf parts as I can so theres no issue later. It might cost a little but you can swap the ring and spacer from fly to fly requiring no custom parts in case something breaks..The extra weight of the steel ring will help torque too which goes well with moving near idle!

 

DAMN racer you were too quick!

 

Heeee Heee