I just thought about this guys-

my machine shop balanced my rotating assembly and didn't number (or assemble) my rods and pistons.

Also I used a different flexplate and harmonic balancer

am i in trouble?

6700rpms?

 

First,

If the pistons and rods all weight the same and are balanced you should be o.k.

2nd, if this is a LT1 motor I would make sure that the Flexplate is neutrally balanced.

If the rods are in two pieces, meaning that the cap is off and you got them back like this REPORT THOSE MFer's to anyone who thinks of going there and us, I'll give them a good what for just for that B.S. The rods only go together one way with one cap, they are honed that way and they are only accurate that way.

If your rods and pistons are pressed fit pistons, you need to go back and have them put together, if they are bushed then you can do it as long as the pin fit is o.k.

What are the parts you are working with anyways?

Bret

 

I think you misunderstood what I poorly communicated.

I meant he didn't put he rods and pistons together to balance them.

He also didn't need my harmonic balancer.

Its nuertrally balanced and so was the original one-
it has the wieght welded on it


sorry

 

In order to determine the correct "bob weight" which is bolted onto the crank throws during the balancing, the rod big end and small end weight have to be determined separately. This is done without the rod being assembled to the piston.

 

My engine builder balanced the motor so that it would work with most any stock flexplate.

That way if your flexplate ever needs replacing you don't have to balance the flexplate.

 

i am going ot need my rotating assembly internally balacned also but when i do i just need to bring him the parts right?

i dont need to bring the block

 

correct

 

i have a question regarding block clearancing to accept stroker crank and/or longer rods, is this way below correct or there is other way to clearance the block? :

do i assemble the piston and the rod at a certain cylinder than i see where it hits the block then i clearance at that place and then clean the cylinder from the block's metal particles resulted from clearancing and then check for block/rod/crank clearance again? by how much clearancing is enough?

thanks.

 

you need 6 1/1000's of an inch clearance at least too...
you have to notch the block if your stuff doesn't clear

a 383 and JE rods clear i think
thats the only combo i've heard of that clears

 

hehe, big end & small end, belive it or not those are actual technical terms for crank end & piston end

 

I always thought its just an aviation term.

 

Did anyone ever address his issue concerning the flexplate? I still don't understand what must be done in order to make a flexplate compatible with a complete and internally balanced motor. I have a new 396, but the old stock flexplate, and seeing how the engine was bought as a crate I don't think the flexplate will naturally mate up to it. Any ideas. Thanks.

 

There are two common types of balancing. Internal and external.

On an internally balance engine you do not need to give the machinest either the harmonic balancer or the flywheel/flexplate. They are balanced separately and in theory any harmonic balancer and any flywheel/flexplate designed for use with an internally balanced engine can be use.

On an externally balance engine you have to have the harmonic balancer and flywheel/flexplate balanced with the crank assembly.
This then becomes an assembly and the HB & F/F can not be interchanged with any other crank/engine without rebalancing.