I changed the oil filter and oil two days ago...long after it started the noise and there was no metal at all in either the filter or the oil.

 

Another vote for flexplate and or convertor bolts working themselves loose after you started driving it. Do not drive the car, you will only screw it up. Just jack it up like you are going to change the oil, take off the inspection cover, and bump the motor over and unbolt the convertor from the flexplate. On my old T/A it was only 3 bolts. You should be able to tell easily if your flexplate is loose or if your convertor bolts were loose.

 

I drove it here to work and stopped by a tranny shop....just from hearing me pull up the guy says it more than likely my flexplate is cracked right there where it bolts to the crank.....and the reason its louder and more clattering when Im in gear and idling is because there is a load on it and the reason my motor jumps around it because its throwing it out of balance........he didnt have time to get it up on the lift to be sure and I only had 30mins for lunch....so I guess I'll go home and take the TQC bolts out and crank it up....he says if it is the flex...I should be able to see and hear it ....

and then ofcourse he says it could be the TQC...but his first thought was the flex...because of the sound when I drove up.


how could a brand new TCI flexplate crack in just 40miles?

 

Personally I don't trust transmission shops, but that's just me. In my book they are the biggest scam artists. I might could see the flexplate cracking because of the convertor bolts being loose and you jumping on it when you first got the car running, coupled with you driving on it hundreds of miles with it making the noise.....maybe. Just jack it up and look at it, the more you drive it around the worse it's going to get....so quit driving around wondering what's wrong and if it going to leave you stranded on the side of the road. Either you tighten the bolts for free, replace the flexplate for like 40 bucks or keep driving on it asking everyone whats wrong and end up screwing up your engine and or tranny.

 

That's good advice right there.

If you weren't 4 hours away from me I would lend you a hand. You're just south of Mount Airy right?

 

YEP!!!....flexplate!....all the flex bolts have pulled out of the crank end about a 1/2 inch! and egg shaped all the holes...DAMN DAMN DAMN DAMN!!!!!

this thing is a never ending project..... ...LOL...

Oh well, Im going to drop the trans and then pull the motor out too....Motor is leaking oil every freaking where!!!..PAN and timing cover and I think the back of the intake......my whole underside is coated with oil....and thats one thing I hate...I ****in drippin car........so I guess the car is under the knife again for the next month or so..

ok guys..thanks for the tips....I'll ask more question as I get to em...

 

Two words for you:

Blue Loctite



carry on.


David

 

OK...got the trans dropped.......here's what I found!
most of the bolt holes on the flex were egged....and on the back of the TQC you can see where the bolts were hitting...the C was actually keeping the flex from coming all the way off....do you think my TQC is ok with the cuts? ..didnt throw it out of balance? Im going to sand those cuts flat....

 

What are you using for flywheel bolts? They were not tight. Do not re-use that flexplate, trash can it. Get some ARP 12 point flywheel bolts, go to Sears and buy a 12 point 11/16 socket and grind it down so it will fit in between the bolt and the end of the crank. Use Blue Loctite.


I would get a tranny shop to eyeball that converter.



David

 

yeah I wasnt planning on reusing that flex....I need to buy another but I cant remember what I need... I know I need the 153 tooth neutral balance......but I cant remember if I need the 1 piece rear main or 2 peice......

help me out here.......its an older style 3970010 4bolt main block if that matters

 

Define older style. I think up to 86 they were 2 piece and after that they are one piece. I see the sticker is still on the old one, can you look at a part# on it to be sure or is it not there or not legible?

 

older style meaning its an early model block...3970010 is like an 80 block or something....that sticker on the flex is just the SFI spec sticker....doesnt have a part number...but it was a TCI plate.

 

Dude, you can LOOK at the rear main and SEE if it is a one or two piece. You have the flywheel off, you can look right at it.


David

 

LOL...I know but I dont know what Im looking for....you got to bare with me...Im new at this engine building stuff and still learning...late in my days but learning...sorry

 

Yours is a two piece rear main seal. You can tell by the flange that the flexplate bolts to. If it's round than it is one piece. If it's not round than it is a two piece.
Your block is also an 010 block which was made from about 1969-1980. They started making one piece rear main seals around 1985.