Camshaft gurus in here please!!
It all has to do with your desired RPM range.
I think the 230/236 will be right on. In LS1 cars a cam like this would peak over 6600 RPM with stock cubes (346).
The 236/242 will move your powerband up a bit and you will lose some low end and have to rev a little higher to get to your peak power.
I think the 230/236 will be right on. In LS1 cars a cam like this would peak over 6600 RPM with stock cubes (346).
The 236/242 will move your powerband up a bit and you will lose some low end and have to rev a little higher to get to your peak power.
What if i went with a custom duration inbetween the two cams at hand. What would be an ideal split (I/E) for the cam? i was thinking somewhere around 234/240 maybe? Then run the lift around 570-585 Just trying to do it right the first time and be done with it. thanks guys!
thomas
thomas
Just got back to this thread.
With those flow numbers you are looking at compareable AFR 210cc LT4 heads that have been ported. So it's not a small set of runners.
The biggest thing you need for your cam choices is more lift. Now that means more spring. If you can fit the Comp 977 springs in there (they are .030 bigger in Diameter than standard) then my cam choice would be a 224/236 3192/3196 lobes from comp. On a 110 LSA. (If you are doing computer tuning then it's safer power wise to go with LSA) Those lobes need good lifters, pushrods and good springs. You can spin that safely to 6500 then, I would put a 6700-6800 rev limiter in that definately! That spring choice is also for 1.6:1 rockers. It's not cheap. The lift is .600 on both and you will need to keep an eye on them, you will also need .100 longer valves if i'm not mistaken because you would have too much seat load with them installed @ 1.750.
BTW I have this exact cam in my shop right now! I bought it for a engine but the smaller cam actually worked perfect so it's never been used. (i'm not even trying to sell it to you, but it seems to fit really well.)
I think that at 230/236 will loose you your lower end. You'll also need more sprilt between the durations becasue your intake exhaust ratio is low at 73%. The 230/236 will give you more power (2-4hp) than the 224/236 above 5500 and give up 4-6 ft lbs below that. Now I would rather have the TQ down low for a street car.
If it's all built right 465hp at the flywheel with 440 ft lbs should be what you are looking at here. The Comp 276HR-12 even with 1.6:1 Rockers is about 20-25hp down on this set-up.
Bret Bauer
With those flow numbers you are looking at compareable AFR 210cc LT4 heads that have been ported. So it's not a small set of runners.
The biggest thing you need for your cam choices is more lift. Now that means more spring. If you can fit the Comp 977 springs in there (they are .030 bigger in Diameter than standard) then my cam choice would be a 224/236 3192/3196 lobes from comp. On a 110 LSA. (If you are doing computer tuning then it's safer power wise to go with LSA) Those lobes need good lifters, pushrods and good springs. You can spin that safely to 6500 then, I would put a 6700-6800 rev limiter in that definately! That spring choice is also for 1.6:1 rockers. It's not cheap. The lift is .600 on both and you will need to keep an eye on them, you will also need .100 longer valves if i'm not mistaken because you would have too much seat load with them installed @ 1.750.
BTW I have this exact cam in my shop right now! I bought it for a engine but the smaller cam actually worked perfect so it's never been used. (i'm not even trying to sell it to you, but it seems to fit really well.)
I think that at 230/236 will loose you your lower end. You'll also need more sprilt between the durations becasue your intake exhaust ratio is low at 73%. The 230/236 will give you more power (2-4hp) than the 224/236 above 5500 and give up 4-6 ft lbs below that. Now I would rather have the TQ down low for a street car.
If it's all built right 465hp at the flywheel with 440 ft lbs should be what you are looking at here. The Comp 276HR-12 even with 1.6:1 Rockers is about 20-25hp down on this set-up.
Bret Bauer
i have the stock botom end with heads and cam and i am running the cc 306 cam ,you are a stroker eng and you are picking smaller cam then mine i don't under stand?
my car pulls hard at 3500 all the way up to 6500 and it is not a dog below that.
i was thinking of going to the x 236/242 or the GM 847 cam this winter with more head work.
the 847 cam is very close to what you are talking about
233/242 112lob sep 533/559 lift this is very close?this is with a 1.5rr. if i remember right?
my car pulls hard at 3500 all the way up to 6500 and it is not a dog below that.
i was thinking of going to the x 236/242 or the GM 847 cam this winter with more head work.
the 847 cam is very close to what you are talking about
233/242 112lob sep 533/559 lift this is very close?this is with a 1.5rr. if i remember right?
The old adage that if some is good more must be better and too much is just enough. This is the worst thinking you can apply towards cams.
The better the heads, the less cam you need. People seem to think that with good heads you need more cam, no you need more lift. If that cam works great for you good, i'm sure it pulls from 3500-6500. The valve needs to be open more not open for a longer period of time. The total amount of area that the valve is open is what's going to make you Hp not the total time. IF you can get more area in less time then you will make more TQ and have a better running street car.
I would work on the whole package not just trying to swap in a cam that will work with what you have. Springs, Rocker Arms and the other parts of the valvetrain are where you need to look. Put the cam in the engine that it wants and replace the parts you need to so that it works.
Bret
The better the heads, the less cam you need. People seem to think that with good heads you need more cam, no you need more lift. If that cam works great for you good, i'm sure it pulls from 3500-6500. The valve needs to be open more not open for a longer period of time. The total amount of area that the valve is open is what's going to make you Hp not the total time. IF you can get more area in less time then you will make more TQ and have a better running street car.
I would work on the whole package not just trying to swap in a cam that will work with what you have. Springs, Rocker Arms and the other parts of the valvetrain are where you need to look. Put the cam in the engine that it wants and replace the parts you need to so that it works.
Bret
so you are saying a cam with HUG lift and 230/236 duration is the way to go ,
but where do you draw the line from street to race.
with my cc 306 cam i love it and drive the car everyday and i drove the car on the stock program for a month.
i have all the v train part in the car i am just trying to put the best cam in my car for the set up that i have . i am trying to get all the info on cam's so i can pick the right one or order the right custom cam for the car. my goal is 400rwhp with hr cam and drive this thing everyday. so do you pick the right cam?
but where do you draw the line from street to race.
with my cc 306 cam i love it and drive the car everyday and i drove the car on the stock program for a month.
i have all the v train part in the car i am just trying to put the best cam in my car for the set up that i have . i am trying to get all the info on cam's so i can pick the right one or order the right custom cam for the car. my goal is 400rwhp with hr cam and drive this thing everyday. so do you pick the right cam?
Originally posted by Schurters LT1
so you are saying a cam with HUG lift and 230/236 duration is the way to go ,
but where do you draw the line from street to race.
with my cc 306 cam i love it and drive the car everyday and i drove the car on the stock program for a month.
i have all the v train part in the car i am just trying to put the best cam in my car for the set up that i have . i am trying to get all the info on cam's so i can pick the right one or order the right custom cam for the car. my goal is 400rwhp with hr cam and drive this thing everyday. so do you pick the right cam?
so you are saying a cam with HUG lift and 230/236 duration is the way to go ,
but where do you draw the line from street to race.
with my cc 306 cam i love it and drive the car everyday and i drove the car on the stock program for a month.
i have all the v train part in the car i am just trying to put the best cam in my car for the set up that i have . i am trying to get all the info on cam's so i can pick the right one or order the right custom cam for the car. my goal is 400rwhp with hr cam and drive this thing everyday. so do you pick the right cam?
With a stock 350 bottom end I wouldgo even smaller than that. Even though chevy says only to use the ZZ3 cam (208/221) with 1.5's I still like that for stock engines. Even the Lingenfelter Cams are really nice for stock bottom ends.
It's really a question of the heads, cubes, and the rest of the parts to pick out the right cam. I do think that you need some kick *** heads to get 400rwhp out of a LT1.
Bret
The cc 306 i think is 236/244 12 lob 544/576 with a 1.6rr and this cam rock's in my stock bottom end car and i think it is to small for my car after i get my heads done over
i would not look at the zz3 cam way to small !!!
i would not look at the zz3 cam way to small !!!
if it's too small you're missing the point.
Engines are not about big and small numbers they are about a system.
BTW the better quality of heads you have the less duration is needed, if you can keep the flow area up then the duration can be cut back, you'll make the same HP and more TQ.
It's your engine do what you want. I would never put that much cam in a street 350, there are so many other things I would do first. But then again a street small block with 570hp that idles like a perfect sleeper is not that impressive, untill it beats you.
Engines are not about big and small numbers they are about a system.
BTW the better quality of heads you have the less duration is needed, if you can keep the flow area up then the duration can be cut back, you'll make the same HP and more TQ.
It's your engine do what you want. I would never put that much cam in a street 350, there are so many other things I would do first. But then again a street small block with 570hp that idles like a perfect sleeper is not that impressive, untill it beats you.
FWIW, IMO.. usually, lift isnt ****, duration is. With some fast hydraulic ramps, the best way to increase area under the curve is duration methinks. I wouldnt run anything smaller than that 230/236 cam, and i think that you could do alot better than that one with something more like the gm847 assuming your E/I ratio isnt retarded high like alot of guys tend to do.
D'oh.. my skarodom @carolina.rr.com email address is down at present moment.. somehow my email address seems to have been deleted, and I dont have the master account PW to go in and re-create it :-/
try odompr@hotmail.com in the meantime.. sorry, argh
try odompr@hotmail.com in the meantime.. sorry, argh
Originally posted by SkarodoM
FWIW, IMO.. usually, lift isnt ****, duration is. With some fast hydraulic ramps, the best way to increase area under the curve is duration methinks. I wouldnt run anything smaller than that 230/236 cam, and i think that you could do alot better than that one with something more like the gm847 assuming your E/I ratio isnt retarded high like alot of guys tend to do.
FWIW, IMO.. usually, lift isnt ****, duration is. With some fast hydraulic ramps, the best way to increase area under the curve is duration methinks. I wouldnt run anything smaller than that 230/236 cam, and i think that you could do alot better than that one with something more like the gm847 assuming your E/I ratio isnt retarded high like alot of guys tend to do.
Hmmmmm....... I'm not trying to start a pissing match here, but what brings you to that conclusion?
Intake closing point is the "MOST" important spec on a cam, now you can advance the **** out of a cam, you can spread the lobes apart to run alot of duration to get the intake valve to close at the right time. Or you can do it the right way, get a better lobe, run less duration and more lift and put it in the right spot.
Believe me, a cam is right when you are running it strait up and it makes power. Advanced or Retarded is a crutch IMHO and you will always get more average power if you have a cam that runs the best strait up.
Today we have so many good clyinder heads, it's a shame to see the same old tricks of throwing too mcuh duration at them.
Go look at the LS1 engines. 346 cubes, 224/224 with 300+cfm heads flat out spanks a awesomely preped LT1. Why? The heads, the Lift that the 1.7's give you.
I just get sick of seeing undriveable cams recomended to most guys when what they really feel and get gains from is more torque.
BTW have you ever seen Lingenfelters cams? Always low duration and lots of lift. That's why everyone loves drivng his cars. Hmmmm a 219/219 .560/.560 @ 112 that sounds like a good cam to me.
You guys have some awesome heads out there now, so it's not an excuse.
Done with rant......
Bret
*shrug* im not saying to forsake lift completely.. i'm just saying that the lift doesnt seem nearly as important as yer other post made it out to be. mayhaps i misread it, i dunno.
Almost all the LTx stuff is over .560"... so... where's the problem? Im not saying to run .490 lift and 250 duration or anything. You can only open it so fast and so far with these HR cams, so if you want to increase area under the curve.. you're gonna hafta increase duration at one point or another. Not to say that you cant make power with small cams, but eh.. only so much before youve gotta open it sooner.
As far as advancing being a crutch, i dunno.. makes more power.. makes me happy *shrug*. All I know about cams i've been told by Riddeck & the people I do heads with who're usually pretty good at designing their lobes.
*shrug* I'm still learnin, but we'll outpower a 211/219 and have more area under the curve every time with our custom HR that's cc306ish, or an 847.. etc.
Dunno maine, wasnt trying to argue, hence the IMO
-Phil
Almost all the LTx stuff is over .560"... so... where's the problem? Im not saying to run .490 lift and 250 duration or anything. You can only open it so fast and so far with these HR cams, so if you want to increase area under the curve.. you're gonna hafta increase duration at one point or another. Not to say that you cant make power with small cams, but eh.. only so much before youve gotta open it sooner.
As far as advancing being a crutch, i dunno.. makes more power.. makes me happy *shrug*. All I know about cams i've been told by Riddeck & the people I do heads with who're usually pretty good at designing their lobes.
*shrug* I'm still learnin, but we'll outpower a 211/219 and have more area under the curve every time with our custom HR that's cc306ish, or an 847.. etc.
Dunno maine, wasnt trying to argue, hence the IMO

-Phil


