building my stroker, external or internal balanced??
SStrokerAce
How much variation have you seen on the factory flywheels/flexplates you have used? It seems like it would be very little so the replacements you would go to the dealership and order if you scrap one would not cause problems? Also are all the flexplates/flywheels (both 153 and 168 tooth) the same balance for the one piece cranks or have you ran across any that are different?
Thanks
How much variation have you seen on the factory flywheels/flexplates you have used? It seems like it would be very little so the replacements you would go to the dealership and order if you scrap one would not cause problems? Also are all the flexplates/flywheels (both 153 and 168 tooth) the same balance for the one piece cranks or have you ran across any that are different?
Thanks
Originally posted by 96ltz
SStrokerAce
How much variation have you seen on the factory flywheels/flexplates you have used? It seems like it would be very little so the replacements you would go to the dealership and order if you scrap one would not cause problems? Also are all the flexplates/flywheels (both 153 and 168 tooth) the same balance for the one piece cranks or have you ran across any that are different?
Thanks
SStrokerAce
How much variation have you seen on the factory flywheels/flexplates you have used? It seems like it would be very little so the replacements you would go to the dealership and order if you scrap one would not cause problems? Also are all the flexplates/flywheels (both 153 and 168 tooth) the same balance for the one piece cranks or have you ran across any that are different?
Thanks
A one piece internal balanced setup is neutrally balanced anyways.
Bret
Originally posted by SStrokerAce
I'll just never understand AutoXing a 4th gen f-body, a C5 will walk all over it.
I'll just never understand AutoXing a 4th gen f-body, a C5 will walk all over it.
Yes, all things we equal a C5 will be quicker (but probably by not as much as you think). However, that's really irrelevant considering they run in different classes and don't compete against each other anyways.
Originally posted by Soma07
Apparently you don't understand autocrossing at all.
Yes, all things we equal a C5 will be quicker (but probably by not as much as you think). However, that's really irrelevant considering they run in different classes and don't compete against each other anyways.
Apparently you don't understand autocrossing at all.
Yes, all things we equal a C5 will be quicker (but probably by not as much as you think). However, that's really irrelevant considering they run in different classes and don't compete against each other anyways.
I just want every guy looking into spending STUPID money on a F-body suspension to take a drive in a C5. The price of the parts and labor time putting all that on a LS1 F-body would be better spent on a used C5. Why is the ZO6 the car to beat in the fastest stock class SS then?
The 4th gen has the worst camber curve ever for this crap, that's why the solid axel conversion kit (35mm Bar) works so well. It just prevents the roll from happening. I still don't see the point of racing a SS Camaro LS1 against a S2000 or a E36 M3.
Yeah I don't get it.
Bret
Last edited by SStrokerAce; Oct 16, 2003 at 02:05 AM.
Originally posted by SStrokerAce
The price of the parts and labor time putting all that on a LS1 F-body would be better spent on a used C5.
The price of the parts and labor time putting all that on a LS1 F-body would be better spent on a used C5.
No one said you had to run an LS1 F-body either. You could buy a $5000 LT1 F-body, throw on some Hoosiers, shocks, and a front sway bar and have a very competative FS car for about half of what a decent LS1 F-body will cost and a third of the price of a C5.
The 4th gen has the worst camber curve ever for this crap, that's why the solid axel conversion kit (35mm Bar) works so well. It just prevents the roll from happening. I still don't see the point of racing a SS Camaro LS1 against a S2000 or a E36 M3.
The SS/WS6's are exceptions because they're not in F Stock along with all the other F-bodies. So I'll agree with you that there is no point in autocrossing a stock SS/WS6 if you want to be competative. Just mod it and move to SM where at least you ll stand a chance.
Anyways enough with the thread hijack...
Are the lt1 flexplate/flywheels balanced differently from other one piece rear main assemblies or will any of them interchange?
Just trying to understand why you go about it this way. It seems like this would be more expensive especially if you need heavy metal plus the cost of having the flexplate or flywheel balanced then having to have any future replacement neutral balanced unless you are worried about variations in the balance of replacements.
Originally posted by SStrokerAce
The flywheel/flexplate is included in the stock assembly for balance. So if you are keeping the LT1 parts then get the flywheel neutrally balanced and get the rotating assembly neutrally balanced. Then it's internally balanced, and if you euchre a flywheel you don't have to tear down the motor to put a new one on.
The flywheel/flexplate is included in the stock assembly for balance. So if you are keeping the LT1 parts then get the flywheel neutrally balanced and get the rotating assembly neutrally balanced. Then it's internally balanced, and if you euchre a flywheel you don't have to tear down the motor to put a new one on.
Originally posted by 96ltz
Are the lt1 flexplate/flywheels balanced differently from other one piece rear main assemblies or will any of them interchange?
Are the lt1 flexplate/flywheels balanced differently from other one piece rear main assemblies or will any of them interchange?
Originally posted by 96ltz
Just trying to understand why you go about it this way. It seems like this would be more expensive especially if you need heavy metal plus the cost of having the flexplate or flywheel balanced then having to have any future replacement neutral balanced unless you are worried about variations in the balance of replacements.
Just trying to understand why you go about it this way. It seems like this would be more expensive especially if you need heavy metal plus the cost of having the flexplate or flywheel balanced then having to have any future replacement neutral balanced unless you are worried about variations in the balance of replacements.
Balancing the flywheel is easy, you put it on a mill. Cut down the counterweight on the inside and then have it balanced. Yeah it adds a little bit, but with more power and different bobweights from stock it seems stupid.
Yeah there is more cost there, but say you euchre the flywheel. How are you going to replace it? If you bolt another stock one on there it's not going to be perfectly balanced like the orginal assembly? So yeah, i'm worried that my zero gram balanced stuff is going to be out of wack because I put a stock part which is not as accurate on there. Plus taking the counter weight off the stock flywheel is reducing the inertia of the flywheel. It's a littler bit but that's what counts.
On a 383 stroker or a forged 355 it's pretty easy to reduce the bobweight 200g, now you have to account for that in the balancing with the flywheel on there. That makes the balancing more expensive.
Bret
Thanks
I've wondered about stituations like putting a stock lt1 in other setups that would require large flywheel or flexplate which one you could use since afaik all of the Camaros and Corvettes used small ones.
I've wondered about stituations like putting a stock lt1 in other setups that would require large flywheel or flexplate which one you could use since afaik all of the Camaros and Corvettes used small ones.
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