Gen1 400+ cid makes it easy. That's the route I'd go.

-Mindgame

 

The 365 is the size that I built it but, it's meant to make TQ. 400+ ft lbs at 3000-3500 and then it climbs to 530ft lbs. The one problem you are going to see is that most carbed motors will start pulling hard and making TQ at 4000+ so even with more cubes the motor will do this. This is mostly because the intake manifold tuning pressure starts building in that RPM range. A Super Vic is what's on that 365 and that's what I would run in a setup that you are looking at.



Bret

 

I'd probably do a 434 then and you won't be sorry. Eveyone here eventually goes big after they first go smaller. The main things with be heads and cam etc. The super victor is a good manifold.

 

You could always ask MaxRaceSoftware, he's done some 600hp NA 283's with stock valve sizes and old school GM iron heads.

Big difference making HP with no rules and with strict rules. I'm a little more impressed with numbers that 283 made with what it had or what 2bbl 9:1 circle track motors make rather than some unlimited street motor.

Bret

 

A 600 hp 283 wouldn't make sense anywhere but in some weird drag class though. It has no place in an arena where you can build the right engine plus it would get stomped anywhere real street cars run. I'm sure it probably runs on race gas too! Bret, we're talking real engines here! That 283 probably costs WAY more than what I'm talking about plus it would be in my rear view mirror.

 

Not if you're in the Ranger!

 

Yeah those 283's work well with 5500+rpm converters and 5.57 gear but not for street use although they still impress me by the #'s. I would also like to have a 600HP street engine that only revs 6500rpms and sips pump gas but can't afford it so I rely on my good buddy N2o.

 

Yep I've seen 750 hp 252s but again they are not street engines. The true stocker and super stocker engines are as developed as any race car. They just use stock parts so they're way slower but still expensive as hell. Some of the heads are on these cars are also hardly "stock" either as MAXRACESOFTWARE can tell you! They are pretty well thought out at least inside their rules. Some have ports that are moved around big time with welding and acid and spray welding and different castings and so on and so on forever. They just have to cc out at a certain size. I am impressed by these guys that dominate these classes as I am by any race engine builder that wins with tough competition.

 

Just outside looking in here, but what are you actually accomplishing by making 600+ horsepower.Or should I say what are you trying to accomplish.... Is there a goal in mind here?? or just so you can say you made "x" amount of HP...Reason I ask, I see post like this all the time and alot of posts about dyno numbers in general.. Maybe its the racer in me, who knows.. I just dont see the purpose unless your going to actually utilize the power to its fullest...600 hp is cool to say you have but its not ideally or logical even ,expense wise or time wise unless its usable HP .... but people are individuals with there wants and needs ..I'm not trying to sway anybody's opinion ..actually I'm trying to understand the the reason of building a engine, sticking it on the rollers, getting a printout to show your buddy's, and thats it...

 

At this level of performance or to get to this level what cyl head option are out there(combo aside) and would it be a better choise to go with Non LTX heads and convert them...

 

I am 100% drag racer, I want a motor that runs effortlessly in the 10's and would even go in the 9's on the jug.

I hate dyno queens, 600 hp is the level in my mind where my car would run well into the 10's .

1982 Camaro- car is fairly light, 3075 without me in it including a 10 point cage. Currently has a vortec headed 350, pretty streetable. 350, 10:1 compression, 230/236 comp hyd. flat tappet cam, turbo 350, 3000 stall, 3.73's. Bested 12.28 @111.85 on radials and mid 11's on a poorly tuned nitrous hit.

I am ready for something a lot faster i guess .

 

Gotcha, I understand now.. guess I read it wrong...

 

How about a potential 9 second NA LT1 motor with the possibility of 8s on the jug? 410ci, ProAction converted heads, soild roller, shaftmounts, etc....Its new, complete and ready to go for $9500.

Just a thought.

 

You got the point though right?

600hp, with no rules it doesn't take much but enough money really. "REAL" Engines to me is what I was talking about $30K DIRT motors or SS motors, things were you don't just get a blank page. Rules make this job much more fun, one reason why the Engine Masters is a good idea, you have rules to build a ultimate street motor too. Now to make the motors real fast street motors it should be able to pull at 2000-2500rpm at WOT and not buck and stumble, but the power curve should be graded on 4000-7000rpm. That is a much faster motor/car IMHO.

True I love the blank page motors, but in reality we get rules of what we have to work with. Carb or EFI, extremely driveable or track car, LT1 or BBC, 92 octange or 110, a lot of money or a little. Thats the rules I see most of the time, unless you drop a web page or a rule book in front of me and say make me the most power with these rules. I like that because of the competiton, and there are less power trade off's there. In fact I kind of like "no porting" motors, you can't play with chambers and pistons as much unless the SCR is really low, but they do make a builder work at making power, and getting a edge. Usually depends more on tuining and valve train than normal motors do and ends up being a cheaper class to be competitive in.

A 600hp 383 with a single plane, carb and a low cost valve train is doable easy. That's where I would look to go. There are tons of heads that use stud style rockers and can flow enough wind to make 600+hp without going to the moon. Just build it with good parts and spend the money on the heads and put the right pieces of the puzzle together because the combination is what counts the most.

Bret

 

Bret,

Street use and pump gas and steel valves and much more longevity are the rules here. This is a hard engine because you can have enough engine size to need truly good heads. Most people can not do this thus their bad *** street cars are slow. Heads are everything when you have a real engine. It is every bit as challenging. More like heads up racing to me. I do rules engines all the time and it really gets old because they are usually trying to kill power. There's NO reason to emulate any of that if you can build a real engine like it should be done.

I know guys in virtually every arena of racing including several in Nextel and Pro-Stock. I know exactly what it takes to make one of these engine programs run. You learn a lot honing and perfecting one engine combo within a rule set but it also blinds you to all the normal and logical possibilities as well. Case in point several NASCAR builders were wondering about much shorter deck heights possibly making less hp because of the .500 shorter rod! The test engines all made MORE power. They've just been stuck building engines with the same rod length for the last 30 years and so they started thinking there was something good about it.