A standard SBC cam would have worked with the proper button in the nose,may have to make one with a Teflon or brass rub insert. Ya could use the LT1 timing cover with the opti block off plate.Use a crank trigger to fire it,injectors will be a problem unless ya use a double pickup dist. How are ya going to make the water crossover's for the intake #12 hose will work.Where is the upper radiator hose fitted and the thermostat.That's going to be a problem without the LT1 WP or an early model intake.

Just thinking out loud.

 

this is funny. your gonna use a opti wtf! have fun cause all your doing is making less power than you could have with alot of extra work and money to be slower. why not buy a honda and put a half of a lt1 intake on a 1.8 lol

 

Go f-ing go! I like what I'm reading and am interested in seeing what happens. Glad someone around here has the gonads to do something like this...
Just wish there was an aftermarket for bigger cube LT1 blocks.



And your experitise is based on what?

 

Why not put the opti guts into a distributor, Run a standard SBC intake, timing cover, and Water Pump. Use an LTCC for fire.

Thinking also

 

Now that's just retarded.

I'm looking to make something that's as much of a 'bolt in' replacement as much as possible. Trying to keep costs down by not spending extra money on dfi and things of that nature. Do I want a distributor? Not in a fourthgen. When the money comes I'll upgrade, until then I'll use the opti. Can't use a cam button if I use an opti either which is why I'm using a factory cam retainer plate. crossover tube is no problem, just needs to be added to the heads during the conversion. thermostat is being added by a remote thermostat adapter unless I think of something I like more before then. The only thing that's really going to stand out is the water pump being different. I'm trying to prevent running coolant through the intake, though it would probably make it easier.

Just trying to make up for what I wish the aftermarket had. Everyone said it couldn't be done which is BS... I'm always up for a challenge which is part of the reason I'm doing it. It'll definitely be a one of a kind motor

 

Dont make me pull out the jelly beans.
its common sence that your choking the motor with this idea, also putting a weak ignition on it.

you want to save money till later carb it then later buy dfi

 

do sheetmetal intakes work on lt1/lt4 engines? are they better than race ported lt1/lt4 intakes? how much do they go for, and where can you buy them?
thanks

 

Yes
Yes by a great margin
$2500.00-$3700.00
Wilson, Hogan,and several others

 

Could you explain how the opti is a weak igntion?
And who cares if the motor is being choked at this point in time. It's highly possible this project could be nothing but improved upon.
Oh.. and keep your Cheetos, jelly beans and chocholate milk to yourself.

 

I agree with this. I don't see what's so "LT1" about this motor- Not the block, not the heads, not the waterpump. Don't get me wrong, I think it's a fun project that can make some power, but I just don't understand why you call it an LT1.

 

Sorry I've been gone playing army in the field for awhile. I never called it an LT1, it's just LT1 injected, using the EFI parts from an LT1 car. Basically, just trying to do what I can to get more cubes on the cheap, and if it's a success (it is so far), then I'll look to upgrade parts as I see fit.

If I wanted an opti, a carburetor, or anything else, I would put it in there. But I want a big-cube LT1, but unfortunately this is as close as I can get to it. If you dont want to use an opti, GM 400 block, stock-type intake or EFI system, or you want more power, then you can go another route...that's what makes the small block chevy as great as it is.

Just looking for something that can be bolted in using as many stock-type parts as possible, look stockish to someone who doesn't know any better, and not require the expense or expertise of using DFI. Hell, nowadays you can get 434 rotating assemblies fairly cheap. It's good streetable power that will kill an LS1 and the cost isn't really that much more (if any) than a stout 350 or 383. Am I missing something here? It's not intended to be a max-effort engine, just easy, streetable power and lots of it. The point isn't to be the biggest cube LT1 (because it's not, or I'd sleeve the stock block)...the point is to make for a larger bottom end to build on for more power. Sound stock and carry a big stick

 

Any new updates to your project?

Johnny
93Z28/Callaway

 

not really. I've been busy doing army stuff so I haven't been able to spend as much time as I want on it. It's still a go, but with time and money it makes things work slower than I would like.

I'm considering putting my 406 in there for the time being, just to make sure I have the bugs worked out of it. Then if that works well like I'm sure it will, then I'll just buy a dart block instead.

And still no plans for DFI. That costs as much as my rotating assembly did, so that defeats the purpose.

 

If a Donovan aluminum small block can be modified as an LT1 then I don't see why a 400 production or aftermarket block couldn't work. That's an exellent idea, I'd prefered if it was made like this to be a true bolt on.
http://www.blackout.nu/BLACKBILDER/E...AluLT1_Big.gif

 

I love this idea and am considering it myself. These people are crazy - i've built several 600+hp 406's with no problems. It is a good idea however to at least half fill the block, and the 2 bolts are better than the 4 bolts. Heck, I didn't even run with splays. I just used studs. Your engine with the long arm will need to be splayed though. Why not use the opti? The stock pcm is limited to 7k anyway so what's the big deal? I'd say 80% of the people looking at it won't know what it is - especially if you use center bolt covers. Let us know how it goes!