ok i have the cc 306 in there now cause i was worried about emissions but since i passed my inspection test i can put a sticker on myself so what cam or what specs should i have ground for a low 10 high 9 sec n/a car i have great heads to support but they always give you small cams when you give flow #'s



this is my winter project this year also going to get splayed billet caps cause i will hit it with a 300 shot also

 

You should probably start with the drivetrain if you plan to run low 10s in the 1/4 mile. The stock 10 bolt ain't going to hack it. Neither will 3.42's. Neither will a cam change on your current setup.

Maybe you meant low 10s in the 1/8 mile. That's more doable.

Any good cam designer will try to match the cam timing to the flow, displacement, compression, driveline and drivability you want. If you don't like the small cams they suggest, you probably shouldn't ask them. They get the same money regardless of the grind, but poor suggestions lose them business. That's why they suggest what they do.

 

well i never asked just in the past they have given friends small cams.

anyway dont worry about the drive train i have a 9 inch moser and 3.90 gears with a locker

so your telling me that a 396 stroker with 13.6:1 compression just cant do it huh? why? the heads dont flow good enough? what do i need to change then? also cam idea's was what i was after changing to a 4500 stall also forgot to mention that

 

Ya need to have heads that flow in the 325CFM range or an awful light car.
A turbo 350 with a trans brake & 4000 stall,456 gears depending on tire size.
Ya get all that and ya can get a mechanical roller 260ish@108+4 with .750 lift & 1.7RR's and that will get ya a 10.50-10.70 at stock weight on motor with 13/1 compression and 110 fuel. Better have a REAL good tune.

 

Not in your Camaro anywhere near stock weight.

Listen to 1racerdude. He's pretty accurate. Even with all that, you are still about .7 off your desires ("low 10 high 9 sec n/a car"). Can't see that happening. Tons of money would help if you spent it with the right guys. Tons.

 

Ed Wright is running 10.20's with a LT4 head and intake, 4L60E equipped 383. But he weighs 3150lbs, dont think it was easy, Ed has tuned the last whif of power from the combo and has suspension to get him there. Low 10's normally aspirated with a LT1 is a very tall order, even at a lighter(3100ish) weight.


JMO


David

 

Yea,Tons of money. I can see another 20,000 dollars.
Something that most don't think about is once ya are going that fast ya gotta stop--hopefully and that is 1,500-1,600 hundred on top of everything else.
Don,t let nobody s*** ya doing ALL the work yourself it's 30-35,000 dollars to get one to run that fast(consistently) and not be broke every pass,even with a power adder, and ya already own the car and it is somewhat modified.
And if ya don't do it right ya liable to be in the fence and destroy everything and/or get badly hurt AND loose it all.

Ya can look at it this way---
Ya can pay me now or pay me later-------

 

amean94ta, have you ran your car down the 1/4 mile in current trim? If so, it would be helpful to answer your question on "where to go from here". We have no information on the current level, so that makes forcasting improvement very sketchy.

First and most important would be to know the specs on your heads.

Basically, your current engine is limited by 2 factors (assuming you are keeping your current heads). First, cam size. Second, rpm. The only way to make substantial power from only changing your valvetrain would be a larger solid roller and having a FAST engine management system (for rpm and more accurate tuning). You would need to turn 7500-7800rpms, something far out of reach for the stock PCM.

You can go fast on a stock PCM setup as many have, but for the power you are looking for and the level of valvetrain needed, the stock pcm starts posing to be a huge restriction.

Jason

 

So true it isn't even funny. Once you start making some good power you find all of the weak links in the chassis/drivetrain. Your much better off getting rid of those weak liks before you put a stronge power plant in the car. Don't forget ontop of all the suspension/chassis work you will need to do, you will need a great trans/converter combo also. You will need a full cage at 9.99, and many other saftey iteams well before that. you can go 9.99 for much less than 30k, but your going to do it once then it's going to be broken again or into the wall like 1racerdude said. I didn't do my car in all the right stages, but I sure will sugest other people do to save them selves a lot of head aches. Good luck on your project though.

 

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=399355

Why not buy someone elses project?

 

well i will be back gonna run a couple time's at the track to see how far i need to go

 

You don't have to have cubic dollars in a combination to run in the mid-10's realm. I doubt Tim (95bird) has anywhere near the amount of money in his ride that some are quoting.
As another example... Jordan Musser was running in the mid 10 range when I first joined this board and by the looks of things, he didn't have a ton in his combination either.

As I see it, and I'm no authority on the matter although I have already spent the money to get there... the real trick is building something that will run the number AND be a somewhat reliable driver. That's not so easy but it's not too far out of grasp with a power adder. Either that or ditch the LT1 and go to a gen 1 SBC of 400+ cid.

-Mindgame

 

MG.
You can't convince me that you don't have 30,000 in yours to run the number and yours is light. It weight's less than 3500 with driver.
I'm figuring he weighs 35-3600 and if ya enter that into the formula it will cost every bit of 35,000 to get it in the 10 teens or 9.99 and that's doing everything yourself. If he already has a 9" ets,etc ya still have to figure it as part of the bill to get it there.
IF he weight 3000lbs and is fully striped down it is easier and a small amount cheaper but if he weighs 35-3600,that's about stock with driver, he will need the likes of a Pro Stock truck small block to run in the nines(almost).That would include all the stout stuff underneath to not break under the weight.
There aren't many with a LT1 EFI that run in the nines consistently on motor and the ones that do are trailer queens.

 

well, my buddies 94 z is a mid 9's car, very consistantly, and its his weekend (3 out of 7 days) driver. yes he does have quite a bit tied up into suspension, braking, drivetrain, and safety equipment. entire car is probably 30k total investment YSi setup.

honestly, i dont see him getting to the low 10's on the bottle a problem at all..even at 3500lbs, a 600rwhp setup, done right, can do that. now if he is talking about doing it all on motor, then yea, he is better off converting to a gen 1 SBC setup and some sick heads and solid roller.

im just curious how much he is going to spend in gas...cause it isnt going to be some pump gas monster. sounds more like a pipe dream trailer queen.

 

HP in a bottle never appealed to me. It works for some but I can't bring myself to do it not even with a belt.Just a preference.I would rather go with a 702BB to strap it on um.
I believe he was talking more "on motor" and he has a 396CI already and a small shot if necessary to run 10.0-9.99.To me a "small shot" is 50HP but to some 200 is a "small shot".