383 not running right after rebuild
383 not running right after rebuild
Its been over a year and I can't fix this problem.
Car is running very rich to the point that all the plugs are black and black smoke comes out the exhaust. Car always sees knock and retards the timing at idle. Car dies at idle.
Nothing is rubbing or making noise.
Its not the IAC. I checked the knock sensor wiring and its not melted anywhere and no other wires are touching it. Local shops are saying the knock sensor usually never goes bad.
Timing is well below what it should be.
New opti was put in with rebuild, switched to LTCC LS2 coil pack conversion with no difference at all.
Car makes a rattle when you shut off the car that sounds like when your battery is low and doesn't have enough juice to crank the starter. It comes from the front of the car. It will also make the same noise when the rpms drop to 500.
Do I need a new tune? Timing chain off by a tooth or two?
Here is a csv file of my car:
http://members.shaw.ca/fbody_god/Gripdiag1.csv
Its an LE2 cam.
Car is running very rich to the point that all the plugs are black and black smoke comes out the exhaust. Car always sees knock and retards the timing at idle. Car dies at idle.
Nothing is rubbing or making noise.
Its not the IAC. I checked the knock sensor wiring and its not melted anywhere and no other wires are touching it. Local shops are saying the knock sensor usually never goes bad.
Timing is well below what it should be.
New opti was put in with rebuild, switched to LTCC LS2 coil pack conversion with no difference at all.
Car makes a rattle when you shut off the car that sounds like when your battery is low and doesn't have enough juice to crank the starter. It comes from the front of the car. It will also make the same noise when the rpms drop to 500.
Do I need a new tune? Timing chain off by a tooth or two?
Here is a csv file of my car:
http://members.shaw.ca/fbody_god/Gripdiag1.csv
Its an LE2 cam.
Last edited by Gripenfelter; Jun 26, 2006 at 02:03 AM.
Re: 383 not running right after rebuild
Need to Log, RPM, TPS%, MAP, MAF, Temp, IAC, PW left, PW right. Your IAC is pegged wide open. I would really like to see your manifold MAP, that could be a clue on your timing chain or possible vacuum leaks. I can't tell much from your logs.
Steve
Steve
Re: 383 not running right after rebuild
http://members.shaw.ca/fbody_god/gripdiag2.csv
I put MAP sensor readings on that one. I have a 93 so no MAF.
For MAP readings, they stay in the mid to low 70 kPA range at idle.
I put MAP sensor readings on that one. I have a 93 so no MAF.
For MAP readings, they stay in the mid to low 70 kPA range at idle.
Re: 383 not running right after rebuild
i Have that same rattle you are talking about when i shut my car off or if the rpms fall to the point where the car almost dies i attribute it to my high compression 12.55:1 i consider it normal as my car runs good. As far as it running rich i would check for exhaust leaks before the 02 sensors.
Re: 383 not running right after rebuild
Update:
I turned the knock sensor off (burnt a new chip) and the car runs like a champ.
Revved it up and sounded amazing.
So it definately is a knock sensor issue.
I turned the knock sensor off (burnt a new chip) and the car runs like a champ.
Revved it up and sounded amazing.
So it definately is a knock sensor issue.
Re: 383 not running right after rebuild
A couple of observations:
1)Obviously your knock sensor is going bananas for some reason
2)70 to 75 KPA on the Map is very high for idle- do you have a crazy wild cam?
3)IAC counts are pegged at 160. The should be down around 30 to 50 try to adjust the throttle blades open a bit to bring the IAC counts down.
4)Your knock counts really aren't retarding the timing all that much, I'm surprised eliminating the knock sensor made that much of a difference at idle
5)Did you degree your cam when you installed it??
6)Sorry about the MAF, I noticed you had a SD car after I submitted the post - dopy me
7) Are the lifters adjusted to zero lash plus 1/4 turn?? Too tight could cause lousy vacuum.
Steve
1)Obviously your knock sensor is going bananas for some reason
2)70 to 75 KPA on the Map is very high for idle- do you have a crazy wild cam?
3)IAC counts are pegged at 160. The should be down around 30 to 50 try to adjust the throttle blades open a bit to bring the IAC counts down.
4)Your knock counts really aren't retarding the timing all that much, I'm surprised eliminating the knock sensor made that much of a difference at idle
5)Did you degree your cam when you installed it??
6)Sorry about the MAF, I noticed you had a SD car after I submitted the post - dopy me
7) Are the lifters adjusted to zero lash plus 1/4 turn?? Too tight could cause lousy vacuum.
Steve
Re: 383 not running right after rebuild
1) Could overtightening it make it extra sensitive? It is my original KS from 100,000 miles ago in 1993. AFR REV kit making noise?
2) I have a 236/242 109 LSA cam so MAP values didn't seem abnormal to me.
3) Adjusted TB blades. Doesn't make a huge difference and you can tell the car is still unhappy.
4) 0.3 is actually 3 degrees on a 93 but yeah, I'm as surprised as you
. Runs like a champ and sounds like an V8 F-1 car when you rev it (magnaflows on 3" duals). Video to follow.
5) Cam is degreed in dead on by a very good engine builder in town.
6) No worries, I appreciate any help I can get.
7) Lifters are crappy comp Rs so they are at zero lash. No extra 1/4 turn or anything.
I revved it up and didn't hear any knocking or pinging. I had one guy stand on either side of the car and they heard nothing either.
2) I have a 236/242 109 LSA cam so MAP values didn't seem abnormal to me.
3) Adjusted TB blades. Doesn't make a huge difference and you can tell the car is still unhappy.
4) 0.3 is actually 3 degrees on a 93 but yeah, I'm as surprised as you
. Runs like a champ and sounds like an V8 F-1 car when you rev it (magnaflows on 3" duals). Video to follow.5) Cam is degreed in dead on by a very good engine builder in town.
6) No worries, I appreciate any help I can get.

7) Lifters are crappy comp Rs so they are at zero lash. No extra 1/4 turn or anything.
I revved it up and didn't hear any knocking or pinging. I had one guy stand on either side of the car and they heard nothing either.
Re: 383 not running right after rebuild
Originally Posted by Gripenfelter
1) Could overtightening it make it extra sensitive? It is my original KS from 100,000 miles ago in 1993. AFR REV kit making noise?
Re: 383 not running right after rebuild
Comp R's? Even if they are not magnifing your problem and you do get it to run right, do you really trust them? I know mine are coming out in a few weeks.
Re: 383 not running right after rebuild
Originally Posted by Z-RATED94
Comp R's? Even if they are not magnifing your problem and you do get it to run right, do you really trust them? I know mine are coming out in a few weeks. 

What are you switching to?
Re: 383 not running right after rebuild
Originally Posted by Gripenfelter
No I don't trust them and when I find a suitable alternative I will pull them out in winter.
What are you switching to?
What are you switching to?



