Did I touch a nerve or what? I am just speaking on my and everyone around me's experiences. Example: we used to run nothing but volkswagens,and I'm not talking 40 hp turds either i'm talkin about twin turbo'd volksdragons, and every crank we threw in one that came from scat(er) did just that. Another example is a friend of my dad's ran a stock steel crank in a 355ci of his for 2 whole years in a 600 hp drag car without a single problem, well he got some money saved up and decided to put a scat crank in it, it lasted about half a year and broke off right at the timing chain cover for no apparent reason at all. Coinsidince? Maybe so, but I was just giving my .02. However here lately I have heard that scat has got their [EDIT] together so whatever you think. Oh and on the comment of the 35 year old company being older than me: my age = 35-19. So yea what you are thinking is prolly right (that little dumb [EDIT] dont know [EDIT]) but you can think what you want cuz ''age is just how many years you are closer ta dyin''!

[Please do not try to over-ride the language filter - Moderator]

 

You probably tickled the "attitude" nerve on a few folks.

If "everyone" around you is breaking engines, maybe it's the parts, or maybe it's the climate or maybe it's the people. Hard to tell. I'll guess climate. Up north, where it's below zero tonite, I haven't seen too many broken Scat parts. Maybe there's something to that sub-zero treatment after all.

Mid twenties engine builders aren't too rare around here.

As for aging, Mr. Wilde said it much better than I could.

 

[Deleted by moderator]

 

scat makes a great product I have seem personal a car with a scat 9000 series crank dyno 750 on juice to the rear. Also for the guy who says everyone who had them broke them hate to burst your bubble but it sounds to me like a crappy builder. a crank will last fairly long as long as you mains can take it.

 

I blamed it on the climate....I was trying to be nice.

 

[Deleted by moderator]

 

I guess Im not that nice.
I just dont like seeing a company get bashed that makes a outstand product.

In my opinion a scat 9000 series crank is so close to being forged that in (once again my opinion) is better then some of the entre level cranks. oooooooooooooohhhhhhhhhhh yeah I said it release the hounds!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Deleted by moderator]

 

David,

if the flywheel and balancer came from an externally-balanced crank, you'll need to get them rebalanced before you can use them on another externally-balanced crank. it might cost a little, it might not. depends how similiar the two cranks are. if your reusing an old externally-balanced '383' crank, what you really have is a '400' crank. which means you'll have to get the main journals turned down to fit in a 350 block (the 400 used 2.65" mains, vs the more common 2.45"). if you plan on reusing 350 rods, you'll need to get the rod journals turned down on the 400 crank also. by the time all the machine work is paid for, you'll likely have paid 3 times what it would have cost to buy a new a new internal-balance crank, flywheel and balancer.

an internally-balanced Scat 9000 3.75" crank costs between $270 (2 pc seal) and $290 (1 pc seal) (both with 350 journals), GM 5.7 rods cost between $126 (cast BowTie) and $234 (powdered metal), KB hypereutectic 383/5.7 pistons will run you about $25 ea, and add in about $100 for bearings, pins and rings. so it's possible to get all new parts for the reciprocating assembly for under $700. all parts are quoted from Scoggins-Dicky's website, so if you do some searching, you should be able to find even lower prices from alternate vendors. if you're comfortable with Ebaying, you could save some real dough. another $250 for flywheel and balancer (SD's prices, again) and you've got the parts that will easily tolerate a 400 hp 383.

 

at the end of each day, i am humbled,
by how little i know
at the start of each day, i am excited,
by how much i can grow

--- me

 

David,

a quick look at ebaymotors found these offerings:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33623

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33623

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33623

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33623

there's lots more to look at there, but i'll leave that to you.

 

Thank you ZWILD,

Your last 3 post have helped me more than all the other arguing posts before them.

 

No prob,

If something I said or did was helpful, that's a good thing.

 

ok, so if you get an internally balanced crank to use in the LT1, does it still need to be balanced. I was talking to my machine shop today, they haven't done much late model stuff, he said his book said the crank would need mallory added and it would be like a 360 balance job? This can't be right can it?

And don't even see it possible to use an external balanced crank on a LT1. Am I off here?

Jason

 

as long as the new crank has a one piece rear main seal so that the crank is front netrual rear external balanced, you can run a stock style setup, just take you balancer, your HD, rods, pistons and rings and you should be set.

Internally balanced get a bit more complicated, especially for the M6 guys as the clutch and pressure plate is involved

and it's ALWAYS a good idea to get a crank that is suppose to already be balanced checked, if it's off, it will be bad