Rage

Today I started the swap. Out with the old LB9/700R4, in with the new LT1/T56. The engine and transmission are out, and now I find myself thinking "what in the world have a got myself into". There are several questions I have at this point, but mainly, for those who have done the swap, what do I do now. In other words, if you had it to do all over again, what would you do before you installed the LT1? I know I have to modify the K-member and motor mounts, but is there anything else?

Also, Im just curious what the wiring is direclty above and beside the brake booseter? What does all of that run? Do I need to remove all of that, or will that plug directly into the new engine.

3rdgenfan

If its the wiring by the brake booster on the drivers side of the car, closer to the fender, it would be the fuel pump relay...and one other thing but im not sure that that one is.

BlackRabbitZ28

www.thirdgen.org

Rice Killer87

Those should be the relays for the fans,fuel pump,fog lights,and the MAF I believe.

FirebatLT1

If I did the swap again:
-Go with hedman D-port shortie headers not hooker headers(had to grind them down to stop headers leaks) or go with longtube headers
-Make sure the LT1 ran good before i put it in
-Go with a 4L60E or T56 instead of a 700R4
-Would have drilled a hole in the firewall, lower passenger side. For routing the wires for the pcm and hiding the pcm inside the interior. I have not heard anyone doing this to their thirdgen LT1 yet but a few LS1 guys have done it.

Rage

Where did you mount your computer? Did you just mount it on the passenger side in the engine bay? I thought it would be able to route to the same spot the thirdgen computer was? I bought Hooker Headers as well, and I matched them up and they seem to be fine. Of course, mine are Super Comp Long Tubes but it should be the same huh?

FirebatLT1

Right now my LT1 computer is just lying on the passenger side in the engine bay up by the a/c stuff. Only way to route it inside the car where the thirdgen computer is would be to drill a 1" or more hole through the firewall, well easiest way.

The problem with my hooker shorties. The side of the header that bolts to the head wasn't flat at all. Meaning where they welded up the primaries on that side. That weld stuck out about 1/8" or so and the gaskets can't make up for that if the header wasn't bolted on perfectly. I had exhaust leaking on all ports on one header and i couldn't even hear the leaks. How I found it was when i took off the plugs and they were black on the part that doesn't go into the engine. If the header would have been made for D ports like the Hedmans are, I would have been fine. I could actually see gaps inbetween the gasket and the header or the gasket and the head either from up top or underneath. I dont know if headers are made to be flat on the side that bolts up to the head either. It may not be the best idea to go grinding because it may weaken the weld. If you run the car for 15 minutes or more and take off the header gaskets and look at them, you'll know if you have leaks.