it sounds like a good deal if the body is in good shape. IF it is a true IROC then it was originally a TPI motor which brings up how well he did the swap and If it was done right. The bogging just sounds like its just getting to much gas. Tell him to downjet the carb to get rid of the problem before you buy it. Jets are cheap and sounds like it will get rid of the low end bogging. Get the VIN number off the car and the codes from the code sheet and check them at www.thirdgen.org

 

bottom line is that it being 'boggy' could be a lot of things. This is where experience and troubleshooting will pay off. Assuming the car starts and idles fine, then I'd start with regular maintenance items: timing/plugs/wires. Then go from there. If you aren't comfortable with doing this type of work, then just take it to a shop and let them diagnose it.

If this will be a daily driver only, I agree with sticking with a stock stall/smaller carb setup. Just my $.02. Keep the 750 in case you want to build it up later on down the line.

 

Go out, and look at your carb, there are numbers on teh side of it that you can look up on Holleys site and see exactly what it is.

If you are on a stock stall, and running a mechanical secondary carb, thats most likely your problem.

 

I think tomorrow night i'm going to go take a look at it again, so if i remember i'll check it...but as yall already know i'm not to familular with carbs, this would be my first experience with a carbed engine, so what exactly is a mechanical secondary and a vacuum secondary...sorry for the dumb questions but i gotta learn somehow ya know...any other essential info about carbs would be appreciated too..thanx..

 

Im not great with carb mechanics, but I'll explain as best I can. Someone can come in and fill in the gaps.

A mecahical secondary carb ie. Holley Double Pumper. Will open up the secondaries no matter what as soon as you slam the throttle. This is fine for a car running a manual or a decent stall. But for a stock stall auto it can be dumping too much gas at to low of an RPM, causing boggage.

Vacuum secondaries, opens up the sencondaries based on manifold vacuum, therefore if the carb is tuned right you should dump too much gas into the engine at any one time.