ok theres the deal. i have a 87tpi iroc. with a 89tpi intake on it. slp siamesed runners, edelbrock base.. no cold start injector.. ok well i got my chip burned at fastchip. and told them to eliminate it and make sure my injectors still work.
well im now reading about VATS. and it tells the injectors to open or something? do i have one? do i need one for my car to start. b/c my injectors are not working. im so lost!.
thanks guys.
shaun

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1987 IROC-Z
355ci, Dart 2.02x1.60, compete forged bottom end, SLP siamesed runners, fully ported Edelbrock manifold and plenum, 58mm TB, Accel 26lb Injectors, Edelbrock headers & y-pipe, Flowmaster 3" cat-back, Rebuilt 700r4, B&M Megashifter, Holley 255lph fuel pump, triple guage pod, !A/C & Heat, !Smog pump, bypassed TB, MJS Ram air, custom PROM, Lakewood control lower control arms, Lakewood adjustable pan hard, Sub-Frames, Hotchkis Strut tower brace, Adjustable Torque Arm, 150hp NOS
IROC Pix

 

VATS is seen by having an ignition key with a resistor in it, and a key cylinder with 2-wires attached running inside the steering column to a connector under the dash. (A little metalic spot on each side of the key, in the plastic area is seen.)
Changing to a different year motor, or intake parts will NOT affect VATS on a VATS car. But using a VATS ECM in a non-VATS car will need a chip burned for VATS deleted. You would not have the wiring harness to bypass it with a potentiometer.
I don't know for sure what year it started but I've heard it was 1989...hope this helps a little.

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'90 IROC-Z, 350 TPI/auto(L98/B2L)Stock,untouched:heads/cam/rockers/bottom end/intake/gears.
BEST: (street tires)
60ft=1.865
1/8ET=8.858@77.44mph
1/4ET=13.96@95.36mph
"United We Bargain, Divided We Beg!"
((Let us NEVER forget Sept.11,2001))

 

Ya we gotta few problems with PonyEtr's IROC, while we're on the topic here maybe u's could be of assitence.. here's the beef.. enginges in and ready to rock, we hit the key and the fuel pump doesn't kick on, i followed the power line and theres no power (12V) going through it at all.. there is 12V comming out of the fuse box, i checked the power at the fuel pump relay and there is nothing there, so somewheres between the fuse box and the relay we're loosing our 12V.. i jumped the fuel pump with a constant 12V line just to be sure that it works and it did kick on so the pump isn't the problem.. PonyEtr read somewheres that the Vats on the car actually will send a signal to not kick in the fuel pump, he thought maybe when he got the chip burned that fastchips didn't delete the Vats.. i have no idea but i printed out a schematic diagram to trace these lines, the power reading out of the fuse box is 12.53V, the power into the relay is 0.00V.. Y???? -thanx mike

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1988 Camaro IROC Z28 (medium orange metallic)
LB9 305, G92 (3:23 gears)
Borla cat-back exhaust, AFPR (44psi), Port matched and polished entire TPi intake, Hedman Headers & Y-pipe, MSD 6AL Ignition, MSD Blaster coil, MSD wires and cap, TPiS Airfoil, Lakewood control arms, Hotchkis strut tower brace, B&M stage two shift kit, B&M Megashifter, Hypertech Thermochip, Hypertech 160* stat, Sub-frame connectors, K&N airfilter, !screens, Modified airbox, MJS ram air, Bypassed TB, deleted AIR
"1BAD 305"
WNYFA
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My IROC Pix
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OK, I've got some ideas. When the ECM shuts down the fuel pump it denies voltage to the relay, throwing the(relay) switch to the off position.
**Have you got oil pressure?(relief valves can get stuck open..varify with manual gage.)
**Does the pump even run for first the 2-3seconds after turning the key on?
**Is the MAF damaged or under-hood fuse blown?
There also is a 20 amp fuseable link in the heavy orange wire(340)(c16 at the ECM) near battery or starter.(usually a non-removeable black plastic piece)
Verify connections at the power distribution block(or stud) near battery.

I'll look closer at mine and post soon...

 

First of all, your '87 did NOT come w/ PassKey (VATS) from the factory. Unless somebody added it, you don't have it. Even if you did, it does not effect the fuel pump, and it would not be cranking. So get that out of your head.

Your injectors are not firing? How did you test that? If they really are not firing and the fuel pump relay isn't turning on, then maybe the ECM isn't turning on, since that is what controls the injectors and fuel pump relay. You just put a motor in? Did you re-install ALL the grounds, including the ones on the back of the right cylinder head?

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Webmaster:SETHIRDGEN
GM Tech
ASE Master Auto Technician + L1
1987 Trans Am: 357ci
Ported TFS heads, ZZ4 cam, headers & exhuast and other go fast goodies
13.53 @ 103.77

 

yup, ALL the grounds are grounded. and i know my fuel injectors arent working b/c there is no gas or gas fumes on the plugs.

 

You can't go by the fact that the plugs are not wet. If you know your fuel pump isn't running, then even if your injectors are working, there is no fuel in the rail! You need a test light (preferably a "noid" light) to test for injector pulse.

For the time being, I would chase the pump problem...

 

when i got wire my fuel pump, there is gas in the fuel rails.

 

ya we hot wired his pump just to be sure that it was functioning and it sent fuel into the fuel rails.. a bad ECM could be it i dont know, i'm gonna take my IROC over to his house tomorrow and put my ECM in his car to see if it does the trick.. we replaced his ECM this past summer, y would it go bad already? just curious if theres another problem that is making his ECM go bad constantly.. i we grounded everything so that shouldn't be a problem, but as for the fusable links, we havn't checked those, thats definately something we have to look for..-mike

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1988 Camaro IROC Z28 (medium orange metallic)
LB9 305, G92 (3:23 gears)
Borla cat-back exhaust, AFPR (44psi), Port matched and polished entire TPi intake, Hedman Headers & Y-pipe, MSD 6AL Ignition, MSD Blaster coil, MSD wires and cap, TPiS Airfoil, Lakewood control arms, Hotchkis strut tower brace, B&M stage two shift kit, B&M Megashifter, Hypertech Thermochip, Hypertech 160* stat, Sub-frame connectors, K&N airfilter, !screens, Modified airbox, MJS ram air, Bypassed TB, deleted AIR
"1BAD 305"
WNYFA
Check out my pix !!
My IROC Pix
More IROC Pix

 

Sounds to me like they forget to eliminate VATS in the new chip.
Remove the the chip from the computer and try and start it up, it should fire right up but will idle funny since it the computer will be running in limp home mode.
If it does fire up, then the chip has VATS turned on and you will need to send it back and tell them to remove VATS from the chip.

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1986 Trans Am WS6
LT4 350, LT4 Hot Cam, T56, 52mm TB, , MSD 6A & Blaster 3 Coil, LT1 3.42 Posi/Disc Rear, Lakewood LCA's &
Adjustable Panhard Bar, Jamex Lowering Springs, 17x9 WS6 Wheels,
T-Tops, Custom 4" CAI w/ K&N Filter, 160*stat.
Autometer TriplePod.
High Speed Run: 157mph
Best 1/4 mile run: 14.94@91.67mph This was with the LG4 carb setup.
WS6 Trans Am.

 

well my car doesnt have VATS i thought. so i dont think it has anything to do with that.

 

I think I read in this post somewhere that the Check Engine light doesn't come on either. Knowing that, and the fact that the injectors don't seem to fire, and the pump relay has no power, I'd say the inline 20A fuse is blown. The sends power to the pump relay and ECM. Its NOT in the fuse block either. I don't recall off hand where its at, I think by the battery?

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Webmaster:SETHIRDGEN
GM Tech
ASE Master Auto Technician + L1
1987 Trans Am: 357ci
Ported TFS heads, ZZ4 cam, headers & exhuast and other go fast goodies
13.53 @ 103.77

 

fuse by the battery.. hmm, i dont think i have a fuse by the battery. does it look like the usuall fuse? or what? thanks for the info so far.
shaun

 

Perhaps when you installed the chip you may have fried it. Just a slight amount of static electricity will fry these things. Anytime you have to touch electronics like that, you need to make sure you are grounded. Your clothing generates static electricity. I would try your buddies computer to eliminate yours. If the problem is still there then make sure that you dont have any broken or grounded wires especially on the back of the block. Look close by the battery for a fuse(20 amp I think) replace if necessary, this will reset the computer if unplugged for more than 1 min.

 

The fuse by the battery is a blade type fuse in a single lone socket. It should be attached to the inner fender under the coolant overflow tank.

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