I have the same setup as 385LT1 on my Z28. The reason for mild steel over Chrome-moly for a street car is because it is more flexible. It is also better for cars that road race, yet are driven on the street. If you car is strictly a race car, then chrome moly is your choice. It is stronger and lighter than mild steel, but it also has less carbon content. Making it more brittle that mild steel. It will develope cracks over time, hence why you must replace your roll cage (if certified) every so many years (one reason). And with daily driving duties, that time frame will be reduced. In the long run, a mild steel is better for a street car. If you can afford to replace the K-member every (say) 5 years, then go with chrome-moly. JMHOT and what was recommened to me by PA Racing.

 

WOW that car got me excited in ways it shouldn't of. How much is the price tag on that front end?

Martin

 

$180 more than the mild steel

 

Here's something worth reading...
http://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/show...hreadid=157173

 

thanks guys!

mrz28ho and those with these setups.....do you have any pictures of the setup?

why did you choose the brand you did?

why did you go with the spring perch setup over coil over?

did you install the setup yourself....any problems?

are you using the stock steering or a custom rack?

are there any dislikes about the setup at all?

would you do it again?


i know it's alot of questions but i really could use the input of those who have these setups seeing as how it's so rare.

 

Unfortunately, no ... but it does look like 385LT1's setup, except on a red 1984 Z28.

At the time I only knew of PA-Racing that made them. Plus I have heard/seen successfull results on other cars with their setup.

Mine is a street car, so I wanted to keep it simple and cost effective. In the future I will be upgrading to coil over setup, since I plan to run this car hard at HPDE and Open Track Events.

Yes, I did. Luckily my car was all apart: no engine, tranny, rear end ... stripped. The only problems I had were the driver's side support flange (where the alignment pin is) would not clear my sub frame. I had to notch it a little bit, like a .5"x.5" chamfer. Also, there is no place to mount the OEM fender braces nor the brake lines.

I am using the stock steering setup.

Except for the notching, no dislikes.

I plan on purchasing a mild steel version for my 2001 SS in the next year ... so yes, I would do it again.

Well, luckily for you more people are jumping on the bandwagon. I recall when I had asked similar questions, no one posted anything. Good luck with your decision and let me know if I can be of any further help.

 

notching?

what disadvantages are there to a coil over setup unlike the stock spring setup?

 

I'll see if I can get some pics of it, from my buddy.

As for Coil Overs vs. OEM Setup (in a road race environment) ... the coil overs offer adjustability that is unmatched by the OEM setup for stiffness, ride height, and tuning your suspension for a certain track (if you so desire). Although that setup is more costly.

 

is there a disadvantage for the street though in any way?

 

Big one, the stock strut mounts werent meant to be holding all the weight of the car on them like that, not saying it's impossible to run one but i'd definitly reccomend a STB to help support the weight.

 

what about the tubular setup itself?

 

well, only the PA racing one is available with a strut type suspension, the stock that is, and i've heard that for anything but drag use it needs to be reinforced, it's not as strong as the racetech one is basically, it doesn't look that strong to me personally, but i've no data whatsoever to back it up so it's really just an opinion.

 

racetech? are they another company that makes them?

the pa unit seems to be the one everyone is purchasing.....haven't heard any real complaints about them? however they are all around the same price but different companies have different styles.

 

whoops, it's Road Tech, not racetech, wasn't paying attention, but yeah they make a stronger K member, but unfortunatly theres no way of adapting it to handle a strut/spring mount like there is for the PA unit.

Seems it was you that made the other post, i put some more info up in there. http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...threadid=74776

 

Yeah, one. It cost more than using OEM style springs and struts. Springs and Struts cost ~$400, where as the coil overs can cost from (IIRC) $700 up. I am speaking in regards to the whole set, not just the front pair. Especially if you are converting from OEM. Other than that, there is none, except you are now running on more expensive hardware, but it is better. If money is "no object" (it always is though, hence our questions), then go with the coil over. I wish I could have done it back then.

Who told you that, or how did you come to that conclusion? The OEM setup WAS designed to hold all that load, hence why after over 20 years it is still supporting it. The STB will not "help support the weight", that is not the design intent of a Strut Brace. It is designed as a BRACE against axial loads parallel to the front axle. This load causes the strut towers to come closer to one another, there by deforming you suspension geometry (mainly your camber and caster). The strut brace helps prevent that, not "help support the weight."