3rd Gen / L98 Engine Tech 1982 - 1992 Engine Related

taking off my driveshaft

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Old Mar 18, 2004 | 09:29 PM
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lordmetalz28's Avatar
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taking off my driveshaft

so i worryed a little about my rear rebuild the bolts that hold the driveshaft the the rear yolk do they rust up? is there a good chance of them snapping. if they snap are they easy to repalce is it just a regular bolt that can be had at the parts store. and if i soak them in wd 40 for 2 weeks before install will i be ok. i mean everyday for 2 weeks
Old Mar 18, 2004 | 09:35 PM
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Re: taking off my driveshaft

Originally posted by lordmetalz28
so i worryed a little about my rear rebuild the bolts that hold the driveshaft the the rear yolk do they rust up? is there a good chance of them snapping. if they snap are they easy to repalce is it just a regular bolt that can be had at the parts store. and if i soak them in wd 40 for 2 weeks before install will i be ok. i mean everyday for 2 weeks
Anything will rust but those tend not to. Unless you live in Wisconsin or something you should be fine. FWIW, when I did the T56 swap and put my SFC's on, the bolts were just fine and my car had 140k. Figure it's under the car (no sitting snow), constantly spinning thousands of time/minute (no sitting water). I could only fathom them rusting if the car sat in a damp place for years.

Yeah--I doubt you'll have a problem.
Old Mar 18, 2004 | 10:07 PM
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hopefully not. ill ask you about bolts more whne i install my headers scaryer then a fat woman
Old Mar 18, 2004 | 10:32 PM
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I'd use PB Blaster for a couple of days and if that fails, heat wrench it.
Old Mar 18, 2004 | 10:33 PM
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If you do break it, you probably will have to unbolt the yoke and take it in to be machined to get the broken bolt out. I would use a grade 8 bolt when you reinstall. I wonder if it is a good idea to put anti-sieze on the bolt threads when installing. I do that on my wheel nuts to get a good torque reading.
Old Mar 18, 2004 | 11:45 PM
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Use a BFH!!!!
Old Mar 19, 2004 | 10:16 AM
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As strange as it sounds I've NEVER had those bolts seize on any car I've ever worked on. And I've seen some 20+ year old cars with more rust that you'd ever care to see!

Soaking them with penetrant is a good idea, but I think everyday for 2 weeks is really overdoing it
Old Mar 19, 2004 | 10:22 AM
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Originally posted by aklim
If you do break it, you probably will have to unbolt the yoke and take it in to be machined to get the broken bolt out. I would use a grade 8 bolt when you reinstall. I wonder if it is a good idea to put anti-sieze on the bolt threads when installing. I do that on my wheel nuts to get a good torque reading.
I would stick with the same grade bolts as factory. Grade 8 are brittle (hard, like glass) and some applications need something different. They are not a "cure all" bolt for every application.

Also, I'd not use antisieze. It can contribute to thing not staying tight. It also affects torque readings, making a bolt "tighter" for the same amount of torque. If the bolts on the yoke are too tight, you can crush the caps on the U-joints and burn up the needle bearings.

Also, antisieze is a bad idea on lug nuts for the same reasons listed. Lubricating a bolt that is supposed to be torqued "dry" will not give a "good" torque reading, it will give an inaccurate one.

My thoughts.
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