ftp://68.1.231.79/brakes/caliper1.JPG
ftp://68.1.231.79/brakes/caliper2.JPG

How do I test that piston? Just step on the brake and see if it expands?

IF you dont remember, the problem I am having is when I hit the brakes when driving, and then let off, they never let go (IE the motor has to fight the braking).

Let me know what you think. --first time I have even messed with brakes before--

 

If you know the calipers are sticking, why not just replace them and be done with it?

 

Well, I dont know that it is bad. I also am a student and dont have all the money in the world. If the problem happens to be a clogged line somewhere, and I find that out after I replace the caliper... not real fun.

 

You can just press the pedal and see if it extends, but put a block of wood or something in the caliper to keep it from overextending. It doesn't need to come out more than 3/4".

You can use a 6" C-clamp to press the caliper back into the bore when you're done.

 

Master cylinder return valve=Bad Master cylinder...if both calipers stick.replacement about $15.00
Pulls to one side, or accelerated outer pad wear= caliper bad.Repacements about $9.00 each..
If a caliper isn't grabbing as hard as it should, replace the "rubber"lines from the caliper to the fender.aprox $15.00ea.

 

Where is this valve and how hard is it to replace?
I just bought new calipers and about to put them on (fuggin battery is dead, and will not charge for some random reason. So I can even get the thing started right now).

 

Something to consider if you get stuck.....

Many times if the brake caliper doesn't want to release it's not the caliper's fault. An internally collapsed flexible brake line can cause similar problems. Have the flexible brake lines from the chassis to the brake caliper been replaced?

 

I havnt had the car all that long... so I dont think they have been.

Ill let you know how the car drives when I get the calipers replaced (20 mins).

 

Ok, got both of the calipers on and bled the front system.
MUCH better in fact. The brakes actually let go when you let off the pedal now.
BTW thanks for the help. Im sure ill ask more questions when I start on the rears next week.

 

The valve is an internal part of the Master Cylinder. You must replace the Master Cylinder to replace it.

(You know you bleed them with the motor off...right?just checking..)Have someone pump them up and then hold pressure on them while you open the bleeders, close them before your helper lets up on the pedal. Repeat until you get clear fluid with NO foam.
I've heard of other ways like connecting a hose to the bleeder and leaving it open with the end of the hose in a half bottle of brake fluid. One problem is air will enter the caliper thru the threads on the bleeder, taking much longer to completely bleed the air out.

 

The answer to air-through-the-bleeder-threads is a little Teflon tape. Take the bleeder all the way out and put tape on the threads, and only screw the bleeder halfway back in. Then you can use the hose-and-bottle method (or the vacuum pump method) to bleed the brakes and not worry about getting air through the threads.

Just don't forget to tighten the bleeder before you take the hose off.

 

The way I was doing it was having a friend push down on the brake, I open the bleeder up some, and just let the air pour out. Once the pedal is to the floor, I just rescrew in the bleeder.
I did it until the air finished coming out, but how many bottles of fluid should I go through anyway? Im worried there might be air up in the lines that hadnt hit the new calipers yet.

 

Just bleed it till you get clean fluid coming out. That way you know you get all the air, and you also flush the lines out some.

 

You can also tell if your done by pumping the pedal a few times then hold steady pressure on it, if the pedal DOESN'T move, you're done. If it slowly goes down toward the floor, there's air still in the system, or you have a leak, or the master cylinder is bad.

 

I guess I didnt post the results... but I have been driving the car for the past week (only about 20 miles though) just testing the new calipers. They seem MUCH more responsive than before (they also dont seem to drag as much as before, and also release a lot quicker and smoother).

But Im afraid I still might have some air in there. The pedal feels very strong, but I think Im going to do another flush (the first time I bled really was just a half-*** job).

Also, I SERIOUSLY need to fix the rear brakes. The moaning on the passenger rear side is SO ANNOYING. Im coming to a stop, and people in their cars are like WTF?

Im probably going to have to replace the rotors in the rear as well as the pads. Most parts places I have visited want like 80 bucks for a rotor in the rear, and calipers like 130 bucks each. Damn thats high.