3rd Gen / L98 Engine Tech 1982 - 1992 Engine Related

solid or hydrolic roller

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Old 02-20-2004, 02:51 PM
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solid or hydrolic roller

aight guys i know we've been through this i just want a few more opinions. I've got a eagle stroker kit and i want to do low 12's or high 11's on motor. i will get whatever head it takes to go with the cam, but i do want to motor to last a few years without a major rebiuld. I don't mind adjust valves b/c i will prob only drive the car on weekends. I want power!
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derrick
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Old 02-20-2004, 06:37 PM
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Solid all the way!!! if your running that garden hose tpi intake, go hyd, they only flow to 4,500 rpm`s anyway so it wont matter what you stick in it. A solid will be waste of money with that pathetic 22 inch intake tract. Now if you have anything different (carb ,ram, mini ram)go for it! you won`t be dissapointed. I went to a solid two years ago and the power difference was like night and day...and I went with a smaller solid cam compared to the hyd I pulled out and it was twice as strong all the way through the rpm range! Just before I put it away last november I adjusted the valves...only because I felt guilty I hadn`t done it since it was installed!
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Old 02-20-2004, 09:38 PM
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I didn't like the feel of a solid when someone let me drive their's. I can have the lift I want without the long duration with the roller cam
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Old 02-21-2004, 11:38 AM
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im sorry aklim i guess i was too vague i am choosing between a solid roller and a hydrolic roller. flat tappet is def out of the question.oh and the car is carb.
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Old 02-21-2004, 05:39 PM
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The solid will be more consistant if you don't mind the adjustment. It might clatter a little bit before it gets warmed up but that is all a "might". Thought you were going with a solid lifter that was not roller.
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Old 02-23-2004, 03:42 PM
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i kinda wanted to go solid anyway b/c i would like more power, but what about durability?
Derrick
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Old 02-23-2004, 05:27 PM
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comp cams sells solid roller lifters just for you...they are called endurex and they have oil orrifices in them so they always have lubercation at low speeds...regular solids depend on windage for the lube. solid street rollers close the valve softley so seat wear isn`t a problem, they also have cast iron gears for the dist, so no self sacrificing brass gear, they are easy on the valvetrain unlike full on race rollers. Valve springs are the only item that will wear in time. Once you go solid roller you`ll never go back.
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Old 02-23-2004, 08:37 PM
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I don't know about that but you do have to adjust the lifters every now and then so if you don't mind that, go solid roller. Only thing I am not sure of is with hydraulic roller, assuming everything is working well, is there any real gain? Besides consistency, that is. And is this gain significant or not for the effort?
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Old 02-24-2004, 04:58 AM
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I run a solid roller in my 406 and if you get a good set of poly locks you can go around 3-4 weeks before you need any adjusting. Just make sure you dont go cheap on valve springs, check valve-piston clearance, and RUN A REV LIMITER and everything should be great.
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Old 02-24-2004, 11:06 AM
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Originally posted by camaro75racer
I run a solid roller in my 406 and if you get a good set of poly locks you can go around 3-4 weeks before you need any adjusting. Just make sure you dont go cheap on valve springs, check valve-piston clearance, and RUN A REV LIMITER and everything should be great.
3-4 weeks? I've always figured that solid lifters need adjusting only every four or five thousand miles. Perhaps you meant every few years? Inform us, please. Once a month adjusting seems like a significant maintenance issue, to me.

--drb
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Old 02-24-2004, 01:37 PM
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Maybe you could tell us in terms of "Miles per adjustment"?
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Old 02-24-2004, 01:59 PM
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once every few weeks isn't that bad if the performance gain is really good. sounds like i'm going solid roller.
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Derrick
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Old 02-24-2004, 03:38 PM
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Originally posted by STANGeatinZ
once every few weeks isn't that bad if the performance gain is really good. sounds like i'm going solid roller.
thanks,
Derrick
It is, if you only put a hundred miles per week on your car. I wouldn't want to be yanking valve covers five or ten times per summer. I don't think a solid roller has got THAT much performance over a hydraulic roller cam to warrant that kind of maintenance requirement! At least, not in a street-going car. Perhaps a race car that gets trailered to an event would be okay: The valve adjustment would be a necessary component of being competitive, like changing brake pads for each race.

Been there, done that on suspensions. The blown-out steel rod ends in less than 3,000 miles have taught me that some no-compromise performance solutions are more headache than they are worth when you spent 9 out of 10 miles casually driving on the street. Sure, I can get 1.27 g on a skidpad: However the wife wont ride with me anymore because the car rattles like the inside of an old tool truck!

Before you jump to conclusions, let me assure you I'm not down on solid roller cams. I'll probably get one myself. However, not unless I can get 3,000 miles between adjustment intervals, with the proper valvetrain components. That ought to be about three to six months of driving time.
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Old 02-24-2004, 03:58 PM
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But besides consistency in height, what is the actual real gain?
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Old 02-24-2004, 05:32 PM
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full race rollers probably require that kind of maintence, but a street soild is a different thing..mine held adjustment for two years and I only did it cause I felt guilty for not having done so to that point. It lifts the valves almost .700 and I drive it most of the summer and fall, I`d guess 3,500 miles a season. Good posi locks on your rockers are the key. As far as every two weeks, I`d guess ther`s something not right if it`s a street roller.
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