smog junk
smog junk
I have an 86 iroc and i want to take all the smog and pollution junk off. i want to know if i can take the air pump off and all the other stuff that is related to it and have my car still run right, or do i have to leave certain things on to make it run right.
Re: smog junk
Are you removing the egr?
quoted from a tgo tech article
"Most people like to disable the EGR because they claim that hurts performance. In actuality, disabling the EGR can hurt performance. Here is why. As we already know, at certain throttle positions and RPMs, the ECM will command EGR operation. This is to cool combustion chamber temps under load. Well, with cooler combustion chamber temps, we can further fuel economy by advancing the timing. We know that to much timing will cause "pinging". But when we keep the combustion temps down, the timing can be advanced without the "pinging" effect. At highway speeds, the ECM commands EGR operation and will advance timing accordingly. With a blocked of EGR, the computer thinks it is flowing when it is not and will advance timing. Now that the combustion chamber temps are much hotter, the advanced timing is no longer a good idea and detonation occurs. Since detonation can severely damage an engine, knock sensors are used. When the knock sensor detects detonation, it will retard timing. It takes more to stop detonation that it does to cause it and this is where it hurts performance. For example, at highway speeds, your total advance may be, lets say 30° BTDC. If the computer advances it one more degree to 31° and it detects detonation, it can't just go back to 30° to stop it, it must retard timing to like 25° to try and stop it, and if it still occurs it will further retard timing. If the EGR was working properly, the temps would have stayed cool enough to operate at 31° with no problems"
quoted from a tgo tech article
"Most people like to disable the EGR because they claim that hurts performance. In actuality, disabling the EGR can hurt performance. Here is why. As we already know, at certain throttle positions and RPMs, the ECM will command EGR operation. This is to cool combustion chamber temps under load. Well, with cooler combustion chamber temps, we can further fuel economy by advancing the timing. We know that to much timing will cause "pinging". But when we keep the combustion temps down, the timing can be advanced without the "pinging" effect. At highway speeds, the ECM commands EGR operation and will advance timing accordingly. With a blocked of EGR, the computer thinks it is flowing when it is not and will advance timing. Now that the combustion chamber temps are much hotter, the advanced timing is no longer a good idea and detonation occurs. Since detonation can severely damage an engine, knock sensors are used. When the knock sensor detects detonation, it will retard timing. It takes more to stop detonation that it does to cause it and this is where it hurts performance. For example, at highway speeds, your total advance may be, lets say 30° BTDC. If the computer advances it one more degree to 31° and it detects detonation, it can't just go back to 30° to stop it, it must retard timing to like 25° to try and stop it, and if it still occurs it will further retard timing. If the EGR was working properly, the temps would have stayed cool enough to operate at 31° with no problems"
Re: smog junk
I already knew not to mess with the EGR cause at my house my dad had someone change the EGR and they didn't put all the shims back in right so it doesn't run very good and ever since that i have been leary of even messing with the EGR. All i was really concerned with was if my car will run right and not code anything if i take all the air pump and all the other stuff that is associated with it(like the 2 censors, at least they look like they are, that hook up to a hose that comes off the air pump). That is all i need to know.
Re: smog junk
If you remove the smog pump itself you will need to buy a different sized belt and route it differently. If you remove the tubes from the exhaust, you will either need to plug the holes with something or get new manifolds/headers. If you don't exhaust gas will be expelled into your engine bay, which will probably hurt your O2 sensor reading, among other things. Keep in mind that the holes are pipe threaded, so ordinary bolts will not work. The rest of the tubing will come off without a problem. By the way, the things that the metal tubes coming out of the exhaust manifolds enter are valves, not sensors. If you leave these tubes and valves alone, but remove everything else, you wont have the exhaust leak problem.
Last edited by 91-Z28-L98; May 24, 2005 at 03:33 PM.
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