Single-best mod to a third gen
Single-best mod to a third gen
Well guys ive got about 700 bucks saved up that i COULD (but dont want to) blow on some mods...lord knows how long i'll have this car...whats the single best mod for cheap thats out there. whether it be suspension/engine/tranny/etc im just curious..thanks
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,291
From: Teeter-tottering between Brilliance and Insanity
there is gonna be a wide variety of answers on this. Many would say headers. Subframe connectors possibly. But if your an auto man I would say possibly a stall convertor.
i cant tell you this from any form of experience but i can tell you what im dieing to get. my car already had slp headers, 3.73 gears and a shift kit on it when i got it and i am currently in the mode of saving up for a mini-ram kit from tpis. i also really want a new exhaust
Stall or MiniRam would be nice but my cars an M5 TBI
so headers make a big difference? ive got a catback on the car already its 2.5" (was on the car when i got it, i wouldve definitely had 3" if i got it myself). hooker headers? slp? i know i should get the coating but hopefully i wont have this car long enough for the coating to be effective
so headers make a big difference? ive got a catback on the car already its 2.5" (was on the car when i got it, i wouldve definitely had 3" if i got it myself). hooker headers? slp? i know i should get the coating but hopefully i wont have this car long enough for the coating to be effective
www.swracecars.com offers a chassis kit for $750. Control arms, Adj. panhard rod, adj torque arm and more goodies.
Just an idea
Just an idea
nmln
Originally posted by AlabamaOutlaw
Yeah like he said go with a stall, or some headers shorties if u want better bottom end, long's if u want alot of top end.
Yeah like he said go with a stall, or some headers shorties if u want better bottom end, long's if u want alot of top end.
What book did that come from?I'd also agree with headers or a more performance oriented torque converter and a trans cooler, maybe a shift kit also. Goodluck!
TBI's have especially horrible exhaust 2 1/4" y-pipe and cat.
Edelbrock 1 5/8" headers and timing bumped to 7*, gave me .6 sec and 5 mph gain in the 1/4.
A TBI car will respond better to exhaust mods than the TPI cars b/c it's more of a restriction. TPI cars already have 3" cat, and prety good sized y-pipe. Just make sure you buy headers for the TPI single cat and you will have to buy a 3" cat too.
Headers, 3" cat, and 3" cat-back will run close to $650 new for all three, but it will give your car a nice aggressive sound and should give you at solid .5 sec and 4+ mph in the 1/4 (~20-30 hp)
Edelbrock 1 5/8" headers and timing bumped to 7*, gave me .6 sec and 5 mph gain in the 1/4.
A TBI car will respond better to exhaust mods than the TPI cars b/c it's more of a restriction. TPI cars already have 3" cat, and prety good sized y-pipe. Just make sure you buy headers for the TPI single cat and you will have to buy a 3" cat too.
Headers, 3" cat, and 3" cat-back will run close to $650 new for all three, but it will give your car a nice aggressive sound and should give you at solid .5 sec and 4+ mph in the 1/4 (~20-30 hp)
Would these work?
Black-
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...57#largerimage
Chrome Plated-
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rt=EDL%2D68751
Whats the difference other than color and price? i dont have much experience, .5 sec off the 1/4, can you really feel it? (on the street)
Black-
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...57#largerimage
Chrome Plated-
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rt=EDL%2D68751
Whats the difference other than color and price? i dont have much experience, .5 sec off the 1/4, can you really feel it? (on the street)
You don't want those....they're for the 2 1/4" cat. Look for parts for a TPI engine with a single cat...that'll get you the good exhaust.
I've heard good and bad things about Edelbrock's TES headers...no personal experience though. I have Hedman ceramic coated shorties and LOVE them. I picked up a solid 30 horse over the manifolds I had (but this is on an engine that's already been heavily modified.)
I've heard good and bad things about Edelbrock's TES headers...no personal experience though. I have Hedman ceramic coated shorties and LOVE them. I picked up a solid 30 horse over the manifolds I had (but this is on an engine that's already been heavily modified.)
2 friends use Edelbrock TES headers, I've personally used only Hedman 1-5/8" shorties, which I currently have sitting on the bench to go from my 84 Z (which is gettin long tubes) onto my 88 IROC (which has stock manifolds). Gaining .5 is definately good, I know that mrr23 on this board gained 40+hp goin to a 3" mandrel bent flowmaster exhaust with the Edelbrock TES headers, n his throttle response is amazing, the car jerks forward at the tap of the pedal, mine is very soft, smooth n progressive, so hopefully the headers will change that.
I would also say a 2400 stall torque converter is a great modification, its the first thing I did to my IROC n I never regretted doing it - you dont need a $700 Vigilante torque converter, or a $1200 Neal Chance converter - my $160 Dacco Detroit (local converter company) out-performs my old $350 B&M Tork Master 2400 converter with no problems at all.
.1 on the 1/4 mile is typically around 10hp, but torque also comes into play, so gaining 7hp and 10ft lbs of torque will also improve your ET by more than .1, only way to tell is on a dyno.
As for Ceramic Coating - it does wonders for engine bay temperatures, but I dont wanna spend the $175 to get mine coated, but if you have $175 for it, do it.
I would also say a 2400 stall torque converter is a great modification, its the first thing I did to my IROC n I never regretted doing it - you dont need a $700 Vigilante torque converter, or a $1200 Neal Chance converter - my $160 Dacco Detroit (local converter company) out-performs my old $350 B&M Tork Master 2400 converter with no problems at all.
.1 on the 1/4 mile is typically around 10hp, but torque also comes into play, so gaining 7hp and 10ft lbs of torque will also improve your ET by more than .1, only way to tell is on a dyno.
As for Ceramic Coating - it does wonders for engine bay temperatures, but I dont wanna spend the $175 to get mine coated, but if you have $175 for it, do it.
Originally posted by Rippin92RS
i dont have much experience, .5 sec off the 1/4, can you really feel it? (on the street)
i dont have much experience, .5 sec off the 1/4, can you really feel it? (on the street)
Edelbrock headers 3" cat
This is the edelbrock headers you want.
This 3" cat would probably be the easiest to adapt, but not the cheapest.
Catco direct fit cat
If you got those 2 parts and any 3" cat-back exhaust TPI (3" cat) then everything should bolt up, with the bracket connecting the body to the cat only holding with 1 bolt instead of 2.
DACCO DETROIT OF FLA (407) 295-9265
613 TRIUMPH CT
ORLANDO, FL 32805
I don't have a before/after, I'm guessing I probably took half a second off my ET by using a 2400 instead of factory, but this is approximately the way my modifications went:
B&M Tork Master 2400 (footbrake 2200rpm), Stock engine except for flat top pistons, 2.5" exhaust & IMCO Muffler (some sorta cheap OEM replacement thing with a lil more flow) with cracked flex plate & 100,000 miles on tranny (the cracked flex plate & broken tranny mount cracked the tranny case down the side)
ET: 14.7
Unknown brand 2300 footbrake stall, Replaced transmission with junk yard 700R4 with 85,000 miles & new Pioneer flex plate
14.4
Underdrive Pulleys, 1.6 Roller Rockers, Exhaust Cut Out
14.1
Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator, Dacco 2300-2500 stall, Dacco Heavy Duty Flex Plate (weight flew off the Pioneer), rebuilt transmission
13.88 n/a, 12.88 on 100 shot nitrous
It's got good driving characteristics, it flashes around 3000 in 3rd n 4th gear, got good accellaration, revs up to 2500rpm real quick, my peak torque is 2700rpm so taking off at the light or at the track is much better, below 2500 it still drives fine but theres noticable slip, as with any high stall converter. You'll want a tranny cooler too but they're like $30 bucks so no big deal.
613 TRIUMPH CT
ORLANDO, FL 32805
I don't have a before/after, I'm guessing I probably took half a second off my ET by using a 2400 instead of factory, but this is approximately the way my modifications went:
B&M Tork Master 2400 (footbrake 2200rpm), Stock engine except for flat top pistons, 2.5" exhaust & IMCO Muffler (some sorta cheap OEM replacement thing with a lil more flow) with cracked flex plate & 100,000 miles on tranny (the cracked flex plate & broken tranny mount cracked the tranny case down the side)
ET: 14.7
Unknown brand 2300 footbrake stall, Replaced transmission with junk yard 700R4 with 85,000 miles & new Pioneer flex plate
14.4
Underdrive Pulleys, 1.6 Roller Rockers, Exhaust Cut Out
14.1
Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator, Dacco 2300-2500 stall, Dacco Heavy Duty Flex Plate (weight flew off the Pioneer), rebuilt transmission
13.88 n/a, 12.88 on 100 shot nitrous
It's got good driving characteristics, it flashes around 3000 in 3rd n 4th gear, got good accellaration, revs up to 2500rpm real quick, my peak torque is 2700rpm so taking off at the light or at the track is much better, below 2500 it still drives fine but theres noticable slip, as with any high stall converter. You'll want a tranny cooler too but they're like $30 bucks so no big deal.


