My engine builder found a deal on a 383 stroker kit this is what it comes with:

Scat 3.750" steel crank
Scat forged rods
Kieth black Hypereutectic pistons

Now I know the pistons are great but I don`t know about the scat stuff do any of you ever use scat cranks are they a good crank I checked out there web site and they look good but are they?

if you know anything about these cranks good or bad please tell me

 

I have heard good and bad, mostly bad. Those Chinese made cranks usually require a lot of machine work and can be brittle. I have heard of the phasing being off, which is a major problem and cannot be fixed, only replaced. I suggest you do some shopping, maybe stop at a reputable speed shop somewhere and ask what their experiences are.

 

Scat?? Isn't that another word for poop? That is what that package sounds like. Hypereutectic pistons for a 383 that is to be a performance motor? I'd go forged but that is up to you.

 

If you mean Scat Cast Steel crank, I am running one of those in a 3.48" stroke version. Here is the rundown, as I understand it from my hi performance engine education.

Cast or Grey Iron is the weakest but most common crankshaft material out there. I have heard rumors that Lingenfelter can work over a stock, cast iron GM small-block crank to handle well over 500 HP reliably. However, when considering the amount of money that would need to be put in one of these things, it would be stupid not to by a forged unit.

Nodular Iron is a little stronger than cast but not by much. The increased strength probably comes from the better metal grain flow during the nodular casting process.

Cast steel cranks are about as strong as Nodular Iron units, but as one person earlier stated, these "imported" units tend to require a lot of machinging or the addition of expensive heavier metals to balance them. I would NOT run any cast steel crank without having the engine fully balanced.

1053 Forged cranks are typically derived from older factory engines. These cranks are stronger than typical cast iron alloys but have bad tendancies to crack. Heat checks are common around the journal areas and cracks can easily form from them. Not worth paying extra vs. cast iron in my opinion.

Any forged alloy other than 4340. These cranks are better than all the above but still not the strongest. Some alloys have more benefits than others but expense quickly begins to mount once you get to this point. Might as well spend a little extra and get 4340.

4340 and billet. 4340 is the best alloy for a forged steel crank. Billet 4340 is a little better than 4340 but not worth the extra cost in anything producing less than 1200 HP. Only top fuel dragsters and Nitro pulling tractor engines need Billet 4340.

If you are building a mild 383, you shouldn't need anything more than cast. The durability question does come up here tho. Consideration to how the engine will be driven and what you expect out of it will all be factors on how long it will survive. My HP machinging instructor told us to not waste our money on anything less than 4340 forged when building a stroker. He said that it has been his experience that the typical cast, cast steel, and cast nodular equipped stroker 383's that he has built in the past only yeild about 36,000 miles before experiencing bearing failure in a street/strip application. He told us that if we wanted our engine to last any longer than that, to go 4340 forged steel.

This is the point in which you need to weigh the costs and the durability of the engine in which they will apply to you. Cast alloy cranks will also not be able to handle much over 6000 rpm revs very well in a stroker application. If you don't plan on driving the car more than 36,000 miles in the next 3 or 4 years and don't care what happens after that and have to live within a budget, I would just do the cast stroker kit and get a good balance job.

 

So there a ***** crank damn I saw there site and they said they make cranks for Ford Mopar Toyota so I thought it would be good and they been around for 35 years this is NOT good I`ve allreadty have the parts hopfully he can send them back I jumped at the chance because he said 3000 installed I priced other stuff out at 4000 just for parts I`m gonna call him tomarow I`ll let you guy know what happenes

 

I have a 3.75" stroke scat 9000 series crank in my 383 an love it. It balanced without heavy metal and required no extra machining. I am making around 500 hp. and have spun it to 7000 rpm numerous times without a problem. I would recomend them to anyone and would use a scat crank again in the future.

 

What material is it made out of?

 

besides billet, I don't really know anyone who is building a 383 without a scat crank, and if you have the moeny to go billet, you are a much ebtter man than me, but even your top engine builders sue scat cranks, you jsut have to machine them.

 

I never said anything was really wrong with the scat cranks. I am just saying that you get what you pay for. You are not going to get a great deal of durability from a cast steel crank. But if you don't care about durability and don't mind if the engine lasts 100,000 miles then why spend the money on 4340? I was just stating facts as I knew them.

Like I said, I run a Scat cast steel crank. No problems yet, but then again that crank only has about 10,000 miles on it so I will let you all know when it goes. I did have to add heavy metal to mine to get it to balance out. You may or may not have to add to yours depending on your application.

I think some people misunderstood some of my previous posts (big surprise). I am not saying that scat or any other manufacturer of cranks puts out junk products. What I am saying is that you get what you pay for. A $500 crank from taiwan tommy's is no where near as good as a $1200 callies piece. That is not to say that the taiwan piece won't last a season or two, but I can gaurantee you that the quality control of the more expensive piece is much better and it will probably last longer.

 

You might want to check out Safiroff www.shafiroff.com
the have a complete internally balanced assy for $1695 with eagle 4350 crank and rods. They even sell kits for a 4.00" stroke motor.

 

Word has it that Eagle and Scat are S**T. Lunati, Cola, and maybe some others out there are good. talk about main journal runout, some say hourglass figure, I talked to one machine/ engine builder and he said he turned one down back to stock specs, another guy I was talking to said he had to turn it down to 20 under just to get it straight from end to end of the main journal.. But I have also talked to a few guys and they siad theirs needed turned but the 100 dollars plus a 400 crank is better than a 1100 crank.. You could get lucky, but you would have to buy froma reputable dealer that takes returns...

Kevin

 

mine is made of cast steel.

 

There are thousands of these offshore cranks in operation all
over the country with good and bad results.the bottom line is this;
any decent engine builder will check all the machine work prior to assembling to get proper clearances.That said,grinding the crank .01-.02 u/s for $100. or so is still a good value in my opinion.
As to phasing problems, that is indeed a replacement situation.
And contrary to popular belief, grinding does not weaken the crank as long as the proper fillet radius is maintained.An added benefite to grinding is that the smaller journal reduces mass and spins up faster.Some of the top racers are grinding cranks down to Honda journal sizes to get this benefite.As long as bearings are available for the grind size, I see no problem with these cranks.

 

Well I talked to my builder today he said everything is perfect with the crank All the journals are the same so I guess I got lucky he checked it out completly and it`s ok so I`m gonna use it