it's definately time for a rear and i could use some helpful suggestions. i'm trying to figure out something that will handle alot of power without robbing power. i've read all the stories on the 9" but i don't want to drain that much power as i don't race the car enough.

is a well built 12 bolt strong enough or should i look into a dana setup like 40's or 60?

i have a good connection with 12 bolts so i can do it for alot less money then the other alternatives, but i also know you get what you pay for so i don't want to build up a 12 bolt if i should have started with something else all along.

any personal experiences with this delema?

 

A properly built 12 bolt will stand up to pretty much anything you can throw at it, and be lighter than the 9" or the dana.

Even though you say you don't race it much, you may wanna post this on the drag racing board, there are several people there running aftermarket rears...

Eric

 

thanks...

 

If it was my car, I would go 9". I've never in my life heard of a 9" going down, grenading, or tubes busting off. I have seen a couple 12 bolts that have grenaded and one that literally bent itself. That car was putting just wayyyyy too much power down and the car twisted and the rear bent. Just my .10 ......you getan extra .08 for free.

 

isn't that alot more weight and drivetrain loss going with the 9 over the 12? i mean i'm not racing but 2-3 times a year and the rest of the time on street tires. seems a bit excessive, however i do want what will work and work right but i also don't want to go overboard.

that would be like a 12 second car working to go high 11's only to have to put a cage in the car and slow back down to 12's. it's just a street car with occasional race use so i'm trying to find a happy medium if it's possible.

thanks for all the great suggestions!!

 

How much power are you going to put down? I have a ford 9' rear end and its alittle over kill for my 386 stroker, a 12 bolt would have been just fine but my dad was so hung up on this dang 9' so we went with that. The 9' is very strong and a great rear end but its louder then the 12 bolt and takes more power to turn a 9' then a 12 bolt. So if your running no more then 600rwhp then get a 12 bolt that has been built really nice.

 

a very similar setup to yours but with two power adders....possibly a little over but not much. the reason you speak of is kind of why i'm gearing towards a 12 bolt. i want to know i can play a little with the understanding that i may have to put some parts in it a few years down the road. i don't want to totally rebuild my 10 bolt to save money only to have to redo it after a month or two.

i want something that is good for a street car that can be used on occasion at the track. i figured that a 12 bolt would probably be my best bet?

 

Go with the 12 bolt for a street car.......trust me it will be perfict for you.

 

From what I've read so far, you should just stick with your stock 10 bolt.

It sounds like a 99% street car with a very limited amount of track time. I don't see a reason to spend a lot of money on a 12 bolt or 9" when your stock 10 bolt will work just fine for you. The few times you go to the track will NOT ruin your stock rear, under normal conditions.

Shock is what breaks rears...sudden and heavy stresses. Unless you go to the track and run slicks on your stock 10 bolt and leave the line HARD, you shouldn't break it. On the street you certainly wouldn't break it...as you couldn't hook really if you tried.

I know of a lot of high HP cars that are running stock rear set-ups. It all depends on how you treat them. Hell...1000hp cars could run on a stock 10 bolt, unless they got the car to hook, which would then apply sudden and heavy stress to it.

But if you're looking to spend money and are 100% positive that you're going to break your rear those few times you're at the track...I'd go with a 12 bolt.

*shrug*

Eric

 

it isn't about positive however i will run the proper tires and run hard at the track so i don't think it will work with a 10...i'd hate to spend the money to rebuild the 10 bolt only to break it at the track. if i'm running 600+ at the track you don't think that might cause problems with slicks and a 10 bolt?

how much would the average price be to freshen up a 10 bolt to the proper specs?

 

Yea, like I said...slicks and a 10 bolt don't mix. But for every day driving a 10 bolt will hold LOTS of power.

So if you have the money and the desire to spend it...go for it. Cause I would bet you would break a 10 bolt with slicks leaving hard. So for those few times you go, you better make it worth it cause you're gonna put down a lot of money for basically just a few track days.

Eric

 

i agree, my rear is pretty bad so i know that i would spend at least a cool 800 in parts to rebuild it to work perfect. why not spend a few hundred more and get something better?

i just want to make sure that a 12 bolt is that better something or if i should look elsewhere.

 

Here is a suggestion that you may have thought of. get a good used 10bolt out of the bone yard. I mean really what is $100 dollars. Then get you a decent built 12 bolt that you can play with. I just did a rear swap in my 85. It really isn't that hard. Would have been really easy if I had any air-tools and a lift. The night before you are going to the track. Jack that baby up, swap rears and away you go... With the car that I am seeing on your site. It really shouldn't be that hard.

 

well thankyou, after the major drive train swap, chromoly suspension, baer brakes, 18 z06 wheels, paint, etc. money gets a little tight so i'm trying to budget in a new rear rather then having to go a whole season without one.

not exactly easy but i think i can work a nice used 12 bolt rebuilt. the stock 10 bolt just isn't cutting it.