And yes, I plan to keep my Q-Jet. It will keep things simple and save me $$$$. Until a few weeks ago I was pricing Demons and Holleys, but threads and Chevy Hi-Po have helped me see things more clearly.

 

ALL L69 cars could get 3.73's. My car came with factory 3.73's. 3.73's were standard for the five-speed cars, and optional on the automatics. If you have the center console look for the option code "GT4" that specifies rear disc, 3.73 limited slip differential.

In regards to AIR, you can safely remove it without tossing codes. Problem is, the AIR pump provides fresh air to the exhaust system and this helps get the catylitic converter hot faster, thus lowering cold engine emissions. It provides additional oxygen that interacts with the unburned hydrocarbons. The computer is not sophisticated enough to know if its there or not. Same thing with the EGR, though you probably should keep EGR functional. The evaporative air cannister is another one that is not monitored. Your heat stove to the carb is useful if you run the car in the winter. It'll get the cold air warm and help keep the carb ice free. I used to switch from an unmodified air cleaner for winter operation, and a modified air cleaner without baffles for summer operation.

Axle codes are stamped on the passenger side axle tube, and the letters are a quarter inch tall. You need to wire-brush it, probably six inches away from the center section, facing the front towards the front wheels.

Any catylitic converter should do the job. Catco is cheapest, however my catco only lasted 5000 miles due to the radical cam I tried to run last season.
On exhaust I recommend highly the Hooker Aerochamber cat-back from Thunder Racing. It sounds great and flows enough air for even my 400 RWHP minirammed 385. As for headers, cheap & decent ones are the Edelbrock TES or the Hooker headers, again from Thunder Racing. Just toss out those dumb exhaust tips Hooker sells with the kit, and install some slash cut chrome pipes.

 

I have front Disk and rear drums. Did the 3.73 come on drums? The car came with power seats, windows, locks, etc., and freakin' rear drum brakes. I know old schoolers prefer drums, but disks have always been easier for me to work on in my garage (less frustration).

 

An L69 with drums. Well it could happen. Has happened, in fact. On the Pontiacs it was known as the "WS6" option, I think. Actually the drums were less maintenance than the pre-1989 rear disks and were more reliable. In the back of your mind, think: LT1 rear brake package, LS1 front brake conversion package. That's the hot third-gen brake setup right now and its not that expensive. However it's definitely not time for the conversion in your case quite yet. Save that project for when you've got the powertrain, suspension, and probably the bodywork done.

 

I just started a webpage in readers rides. My title is almost the same as the title to this thread. I think it is one of four 1984's if you have to do a year search. I only put up two photos ... one at my old house (2004) and one of my engine bay. I have more photos, and later I will add them along with day one photos ... the car was in rough shape when I got her.

Thanks, I knew one day I would need to upgrade those also. Infact, I will replace the brakes this summer, but with Hawk pads ... and I will turn the rotors and drums. The plan is to upgrade my brakes, replace shocks, springs, rubbers, etc. in 2007.

 

The original color of the car was Poop ... I mean Dark Brown. I like this GM 2004 color better. I first saw it in 2003 on a Pontiac Aztec ... go figure. I am keeping the interior Dark Brown and Black two-tone.

 

The silver looks great. I love the look of the early Z28s. Very, very rare now. Check out the graphics from Phoenix Graphics. I put those on my car this year and they are perfect. It'll really finish off the outside of that great looking Z.

 

Thanks, I was going to have the graphics painted on the car, but the guy who painted it had my car in jail for months without touching it AFTER he took the entire car apart. (fenders, quarters, hood, seats, and nose) So we took the car back after he laid the primary colors.

I had the non-functional hood louvers? ... whatever you call them removed, and filled in the (4) 1/4" mounting holes. It looked to cheesy, and I didn't want to explain to everyone that my hot looking car has pieces of stationary metal decorating the hood (4" x 2").

 

Ya I would probably keep that engine if your short on money because its not a bad little engine but if you can convince your wife to scrap the engine out of it, do the Lt1 and pay for the extra odds and ends it would defidently be worth it. The 400 would give you crappy fuel effeciency so that could defidently be a selling point of the LT1.

 

Why remove them? They make third-gens look GREAT. I have seen I think ONE third gen with a normal hood that actually lookded good; in fact I think it's a new posters ride come to think of it

 

Check out my car domain website ... I think my hood looks alright. I just prefer form and function. I would've kept them on the hood, but it didn't look real ... I've seen pictures of other '84s and mine just didn't look the same. Which made me wonder if someone replaced them with fakes metal rectangles.

The jury is still out on engine choices, especially on the LT1 ... carb or SFI?

 

you go lt1 you better not carb it,besides have seen what it cost to carb on of those suckers?you need to retrofit the distributorless ignition for a carb manifold.edelbrock makes a nice kit but it alone would almost kill your budget.the lt1 carbbed isnt such a great motor compared to the orginal sbc you have.i mean the basic designs are very similiar with the exception of a few changes but in terms of power an old sbc with a wicked set of heads carbed will make just as much if not more power than a carbed lt1 stock head.thats why i dont know why you would want to go to a carbed lt1?for what benefit

 

I totally agree with you Anthony. The only benefit of that LT1 is the reverse cooling technology and the electronic fuel injection. Slapping that LT1 in will only be worth it if you go the whole way. Which brings up another question: How electronics savvy are you? There will be substantial wiring changes to be made to your car for the LT1. I know first hand 'cause I've done it!! My original service manual has grafitti all over the wiring diagrams where I've cut, spliced, and rerouted stuff.

Dont forget you will need to put in a different fuel pump into the tank and that requires that you drop the axle and the fuel tank! You will also have to run new wires to the fuel sending unit to get adequate current to the new pump. So, put in an LT1 and be prepared to do something like this:


You'll be removing the whole powertrain and suspension before putting it back together.

 

You guys make great points. I am pretty good with electronics and wiring, but, I would prefer taking the easy way out. My first idea was to buy a Painless Performance wiring kit, but they don't make a 3Gen specific wiring harness, just a generic one ... which would work fine, but that's another $300 to add to the budget. Hmmmm ... you know, the more I think about it the more I think I should keep what I've got.

Just get a 1) new cat, 2) cat-back exhaust, 3) Edelbrock headers. Then later get a short block, good set of complete Vortec (or whatever) heads, intake manifold, and be happy.

I'm guessing my current distributor will work in any Gen-1 SBC of 350ci? Please correct me if I'm wrong. The same for headers (specifically the Edelbrocks)? I like to buy things once, and once only.

Also, for those of you who already did it, is it worth building a 300hp 305?

Where is the best place to get a 350 short block? I know I know, not my local national chain of auto parts stores, even though I am a Michael Waltrip fan. Thanks.

 

I forgot to add ... from my past experience driving my buddy's 1994 Z28 that is beefed up to SS specs, 300-320hp is enough for me, and for what I will use the car for everyday. It would be nice to have 350+hp and 400lb ft of torque, but not right now or in the near future ... maybe in 5-7 years.