Ok, after looking at my oil pan...i guess im going to need a new one...where do I go to get a new one not to expensive? and what kind do I need? stock I dont think works as the rods would hit the pan and I dont want to have to dent the pan..thats cant be good.... this is for a 383 stroker motor with 6" rods and also...about my oil pump, how far off the bottom does the pick-up need to be? I measured the one that is already on the motor and it measures about 5.5" from the bottom of the block where the pan would start...the pick-up is welded on the pump....most pans ive looked at are like 7 or so inches deep in the sump....is my pick-up welded to high up?
Even the pan that was on the motor already was 7 or more inches deep....so that was leaving the current pick-up about 2 inches from the bottom of the pan...WHAT WOULD THAT CAUSE TO HAPPEN? is that not good?

would I have to buy a new pump and pick-up since mine has already been welded? or is there a way to break the weld off?

the pump that I have on there now is an Mellings...M155


is any of this does not make sense let me know..

 

Don't buy one of the cheap summit brand oil pans, i did and had to clearance(beat it with a big hammer) it for the counterweights on the crank and I'm running a 355. Also, watch out for the Mxxx pumps, last I checked they still used the newer thin casting. Some people have had issues some have not, the old, thicker casting is now sold as the M select pumps, I want to say the part number for your pump would be 10556 but I'm not positive.

2" seems like a little much, but I don't really know.

edit for wrong info

 

The pick up should be 1/4 - 3/8" from the pan. I use the canton pan with their recommended pick up and the select seried meleing pump. I think moroso now has a more cost effective pan for the f-body LT1.

 

Ditto... 383 LT1 with forged internals 6" rod. Canton road pan with Melling HV pump. Pump pick-up from Canton. Had trouble with the dip stick. Made my own. Better to buy the better pump. Standard Melling HV is low quality (did not fit flat to the block boss). B.

 

where is everyone getting ther pumps from? Ive heard and been told that the current Melling pumps are junk now...so whats everyone using? and where are you getting them from?


WHat kind of pump should I use? Ive read that I dont need an HV as it could suck my pan dry?

oh and this is not for an LT1 block..this is for a 3970010 early model 4bolt main 2 peice rear main seal block that is in a 3rd gen..

 

I used a Moroso 6 qt pan #20182 along with one of their blueprinted pumps...very nice piece...the pickup was welded to the pump already.

 

got picture of it? how much was it total? where did you get it from?

does it fit with no problem? what oil pan gasket did you use?

thanks

holy crap!...I just called Summit about those parts..the pan is $135 in stock and the pump is $161 special order end of the month.....

Cant wait!...need it all by this weekend...plus that way to much money!...

Look, ive already got a 7qt oil pan that is 7.25 deep in the sump..and when I called Mellings the recommended this

#10552- Select series pump with 10% more volume
#12557- 7" bolt on pick-up tube and screen
#12550- chrome moly shaft....which summit does not show in database


Will I have a problem with the 10% volume increase? Ive done a search and have read alot of sucking the pan dry threads...but Im also thinking thats with a stock pan? I dont know
and I know I can change the spring out to the GM 3848911 white spring for more pressure

 

I'll have to see if I have any pics of it. The pan was about $125 or so, but I don't think the Moroso pump I got was more than $100. I'm running it on a 383 with 6" rods as well and there are no problems. I believe I have a felpro gasket on it.

 

Screw it!!!...Im thinking about this pan....I gotta decide by tomorrow at 3 so I can have it by Friday.....standard Volume select Pump 10553 and the screen..guy has to call Canton and fine out what screen fits.

 

That would be a great choice....if I were building mine over I'd most likely go with Canton too.

 

So did I, and they have worked great so far. I use a regular volume oil pump, and at idle I get about 25 - 30 psi, and at 3000+ RPM I get 40 - 60 PSI. That's plenty enough oil.

 

i hear ya...I would have but nobody had that pan in stock...must be popular.. and I needed it all by Friday. and the moroso pump was special order and not available till the end of the month

WEll I place my order for everything today and should get it all by friday so I can put it all back together and back in the car.

I ordered:
}...Canton pan #13-080 deep 6qt pan
}...Melling Select pump #10552 10% more volume guy at Melling said that 10% is not a big difference and the pump already come with the high pressure spring
}...Canton bolt on Pick-up screen #20-082 to go on the pump and work with the pan
}...Chrome moly Pump shaft #12550

I guess we'll see if it all goes together ok.....

 

Once you get it all figured out, I hear that the trick is to place a 3/8 drill bit underneath the pickup, then assemble in order to press the pickup into correct position and depth relative to the oil pan bottom. Then you disassemble, and spot-weld in two or three spots to hold the pickup onto the oil pump. I've known at least two, possible three F-body owners out there who have had their engines lose all oil pressure due to a pressed-on, then dropped oil pickup tube. One of them lost the whole engine becuase of it.

 

OH god I would hate to have that happen....thanks for the tip!....the pick-up I got is press fit and bolt on....but I guess I'll get it tacked too..

 

I am, curious how it all fits with the exhaust ? Does it matter if you have a auto or manual tranny ? I been affraid to just plop the cash down and find out ...it sits to dang low ... or my exhaust won;t fit after it;s in