Alright started out by me replacing a rocker arm. I took the intake manifold and all the vacuum lines off along with the valve covers. My car finally starts but it idles crazy and when I go it back fires and drives like sh*t. Smells like gas also.

I replaced the rocker arm and noticed some of the pushrods were a bit loose so I tighened them till I couldnt turn them with my finger. Then added a half a turn. Continually took the valve cover off to make sure they were all good. Had trouble with the distributor but I think I got it back to where that should be. Set it on the '0' on the downstroke (or maybe it was upstroke) side. Well i tried it both ways and it only works one. Put the rotor towards the first cylinder pointing to the first with the distributor all the way in. Hooked up all the vacuum lines the way I think they went.

I cant even get the timing to stop from jumping around so much. Goes to 6 then 0 then 8 on the other side then even past the markings. Runs horrible. I also read that you are supposed to disconnect the computer while doing the timing. Well I tried disconnecting both connectors on the back of the distributor. Car wont start. Tried just the one, then just the other.....Still nothing. I dont know whats wrong... I might not even be making sense. Im just so tired. Any ideas?

 

Just above the heater in that big bunch of wires there is a brown and white wire with a connetion. Unplug that to time the engine , then plug it back and restart to reset SES light.

 

So there actually isnt any other way to do the timing unless you pull that plug? Because I heard the computer keeps trying to adjust itself while your trying to adjust it manually. Ill try it out tomorrow. Hopefully this will be the end of my problems.

 

Correct, that brown & white wire runs to the computer. Any changes made to the timing while that wire is plugged in will be a waste because the computer will sense the adjustment & correct it.

If you set the timing while the computer is 'unplugged', it won't compensate for any changes because they weren't made while it was monitoring the engine. Then when you plug the wire back in, the computer resets itself & uses the current base timing as it's new point of reference.

Hopefully someone will correct me if I'm not completely right here, but I think I got the jist of it.

 

You cannot simply tighten the rockers like that. You have to set it to TDC #1. At this point, the timing mark and the balancer will meet and then you do the intakes of 1, 2, 5, 7 and exhaust of 1, 3, 4, 8. Rotate the crank again till the mark on the balancer lines up with the timing mark again. Do the remaining valves.

I loosen the nuts completely and then tighten them while spinning the pushrods. Once I feel drag, I would tighten them about 1 turn and stop.

I believe the ECM uses 6 deg as base whether you have it set at 6 or not. IOW, it assumes you have it set at 6 and startes advancing or retarding from that figure. Unhook the tan wire at the strut tower area and that is your base timing without the ECM altering it.

 

This is a man that knows what he's talking about. Thanks. Alright if I had top dead center before all I would have to do is manually turn the crank until the rotor is facing the 1st cylinder again. Right? At TDC should I have the timing mark at 0 or 6 before? or in that case 6 after? Haha. so many settings. Just trying to get her running again. Thanks guys

 

This is a man who has tightened the pushrod when it was not supposed to be done. This is a man who has also had to R&R the intake manifold to get at the broken pushrod.

As you turn the crank and the balancer mark lines up with the timing marker the rotor on the dist will point at either #1 cylinder or #6 cylinder which is opposite. When it points at #1 and the timing marker lines up with the balancer mark you are there. Adjust the valves and proceed to turn the crank 1 more rotation. At this point, your rotor will point at #6. You cannot see 6 deg of difference anyway so just use the timing marks. Forget your 6 degrees of base timing.

 

Sounds good. Thanks. Guess Ill be doing this today.

 

Very helpful and respectful thread. Too many times people are hurtfull over mistakes people make. Live and Learn I say.

Botch

 

Actually, now that you mention it, I wonder if he tightened the pushrods to the point that they warped only or if the lifter could be f**ked too. If the pushrod is warped, I would suspect the lifter was probably subjected to huge amounts of stress and might not be trusted anymore. That said, perhaps a set of lifters and pushrods might be in order.

 

They all looked good. I will be changing everything early this summer. Car still runs like crap. I dont know why. Im gonna go outside and change the wires quick. The tack even goes haywire just bounces around everywhere.

 

Does anyone think that the cats could be clogged? It sounds like it idles ok when it first starts up. The warmer the car gets the crappier it runs. Tack bounces everywhere, stalls, no power at all. I changed the wires hoping thats what it was but it wasnt. One wire was bad tho. Any more suggestions? Thanks

 

yea,the cat could be clogged,but it wouldnt just all of a sudden happen like this i dont think.

u SURE the timing is right? how about the firing order,u have the plug wires in the right spot on the distributor?

firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

 

If you suspect the cat a good way to check it is to have someone rev the engine while you watch the cat,if it puffs up alot it is more than likely shot. Anotger thing to check is the distributor shaft for free play (wobble)shouldn't be much if any.

 

Yea i checked the firing order so many times. Someone said it might be the TPS so Im gonna check that today with an ohm meter. Also gonna check the fuel fuses. Dont think this is it but its worth a shot. Maybe change the fuel pump relay also.