no heat in my LT1 powered Z, hellllp!
#1
no heat in my LT1 powered Z, hellllp!
ok, i put a 95 LT1 in my 92 Z28.
i have no heat at the moment. its tooooo cold for this so i need some advise.
i understand the LT1 is reverse cooled. i am not sure what this means to me really. there are 3 lines off the water pump that are not used right now. i am pretty sure one of those are what i need to hook up to my heater control valve to make the missing link in this equation work.
there is 1 availble on the top passenger side. i had it hooked up to this one, and i had heat until i drove, then i would loose the heat.
there are 2 on the drivers side, 1 top and one bottom. do i use one of these or is there somewhere else i hook up to?
i am useing the stock heater control valve from the 92 car.
i have no heat at the moment. its tooooo cold for this so i need some advise.
i understand the LT1 is reverse cooled. i am not sure what this means to me really. there are 3 lines off the water pump that are not used right now. i am pretty sure one of those are what i need to hook up to my heater control valve to make the missing link in this equation work.
there is 1 availble on the top passenger side. i had it hooked up to this one, and i had heat until i drove, then i would loose the heat.
there are 2 on the drivers side, 1 top and one bottom. do i use one of these or is there somewhere else i hook up to?
i am useing the stock heater control valve from the 92 car.
#2
in my opinion now camaro should be out after the first snow anyway, do yourself a favor park it for the winter, in a garage, under a deck with a cover, something,road salt runs wild on cars. thats why so many third gens are **** cause winter and ocean area driving. i bought mine from nj shore and the owner took care off it undercoating the entire bottom of the car. but i still found a inch of sand in my oil pan when i pulled it. i saw a guy today with a immaculate perfect cherry red iroc-z convertible driving around with snow on his hood and ice all over his car. makes me sad. park it and you wont have to worry about the heat (buy yourself a nissan stanza for 100 bucks for the winter) youll be very glad you did
#4
He's in Oregon so he'll be okay. West coast cars last a looong time on the road, and can be driven year round. I've lived on the east coast and I know what salt does to cars. But in the Pacific northwest, it rains so bloody much in the winter, that salt - if there is any on the roads - is washed off in no time.
As to your problem, I wonder if you have your hoses to the radiator hooked up right. The LT1 cars have it reversed compared to the earlier cars. You may also want to try the LT1 forum, theres a lot of knowledgeable guys in there.
HTH.
As to your problem, I wonder if you have your hoses to the radiator hooked up right. The LT1 cars have it reversed compared to the earlier cars. You may also want to try the LT1 forum, theres a lot of knowledgeable guys in there.
HTH.
#6
I bet the one line you used before, sucked in or didn't push out enough coolant when you were driving, so thats probably why you had no heat. One of the two ports on the pump you have should work. One line should pump out coolant good all the time, and run that one to your heat, then the return line, you should run to your radiator. If the second line off the pump doesn't work, try the third, your bound to have one of them work.
Oh yeah, did you use that valve that came on the car from the factory? If theres no vaccuum going to the valve or the hoses are connected wrong, this would also explain why you have no heat. The valve may have never opened, if it had no vaccuum.
Oh yeah, did you use that valve that came on the car from the factory? If theres no vaccuum going to the valve or the hoses are connected wrong, this would also explain why you have no heat. The valve may have never opened, if it had no vaccuum.
Last edited by cronsformula350; 12-19-2003 at 11:15 PM.
#7
I believe the last person was on to it. The LT1 doesn't make vacuum at throttle so you might have to rig it or go to Lowes and buy some T with a shut off to connect the heater lines to. Some how I got lucky mine works but my car is set up to run to cool to make heat. No fans on in the winter and the damn thing won't break 130 degress that's why I bought a beater Jeep. Good luck
Brett
Brett
#9
If the hoses are the same temp on both sides of the control valve, it's functioning properly.
If it cools as you drive, your t-stat may be opening early. Also it would cause it to take a LONG time to warm up.
Are your flap doors under the dash moving when you move the temp selector from "cold" to "hot". You may have to visually see the door's lever move. You sometimes can hear the doors shut on manual selectors, but climate controls will be a visual confirmation.
The radiator must also build pressure at operating temp, a leaky radiator cap can stop heat.
If it cools as you drive, your t-stat may be opening early. Also it would cause it to take a LONG time to warm up.
Are your flap doors under the dash moving when you move the temp selector from "cold" to "hot". You may have to visually see the door's lever move. You sometimes can hear the doors shut on manual selectors, but climate controls will be a visual confirmation.
The radiator must also build pressure at operating temp, a leaky radiator cap can stop heat.
#10
On the waterpump we have in my friends LT1 swapped car, it has 2 on the pass side and one on the drivers side. (the pump I have is the same way)
We used the 2 on the pass side and capped off the one on the drivers side. Heat works great in his car. He also has a 160 T-stat installed.
We used the 2 on the pass side and capped off the one on the drivers side. Heat works great in his car. He also has a 160 T-stat installed.
#11
so which hose did you and your friend hook to the heater control valve? did u not use the rediator return or did the 2 fittings on the waterpump neet to have a t so they both got to the heater control valve?